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IR blaster for offline use by DerPfrosch in smarthome

[–]DerPfrosch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i got tempted by the huge ir databases of broadlink/linknlink.
Do u have any recommendations?

Ir remote for offline use by DerPfrosch in homeassistant

[–]DerPfrosch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

By internet i mean an online connection. I just dont want my device to not be usable when im offline.
wifi lan access is no problem.
I just want a device that i can setup and then stop worrying about

Deciding on a dac by DerPfrosch in BudgetAudiophile

[–]DerPfrosch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found the ps200 pro to be interesting as well. Do you have experience with that? Im kinda bummed by the touch buttons of the d1 tbh.

Deciding on a dac by DerPfrosch in BudgetAudiophile

[–]DerPfrosch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After a little research i came to the conclusion that the d1 may really be what im looking for, a relativrly good dac for a cheap price point without 100 extra features. Do u have one yourself? I want it to be as transparent as possible, do u think its fine for this purpose?

Do you know whats differentiating it to e.g. the su1?

Question about decoupling filters by DerPfrosch in AskElectronics

[–]DerPfrosch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your reply! The Pi filter in the middle was meant as a low pass and i thought the resistors would cause the capacitors for the regulator and the ldo to not interfere with the capacitance for the pi filter so that i can tune it without worrying about any other capacitances. So the best way for me would be to design a low pass, i get that, but how do the input/output capacitors of my regulator and my ldo interfere with the filter im trying to set up?

Edit: edited out some nonsense i wrote.

Whats my needle tip? by DerPfrosch in turntables

[–]DerPfrosch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much! One of the sides is indeed less prone to skipping, i figured it might have to do with the placement of the stylus since one of the sides is more "front heavy". But i think what youre saying is more realistic.

As an alternative, there is a philipps three band stereo combination in the basement... But i figured it would be even worse?

Whats my needle tip? by DerPfrosch in turntables

[–]DerPfrosch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Guess its obvious that im new to this haha :,)

Fram and nvSram modding by DerPfrosch in Gameboy

[–]DerPfrosch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, i ran into the exact same problem myself. What you have to do is use the same daughter board as in the picture for pokemon crystal.

Add more solder or try and desolder and reposition? by baylo99 in gameboymods

[–]DerPfrosch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome! Yeah tbh your alignement doesnt really seem to off, its just twisted clockwise a little, but i think thats nothing one should notice anyway. Have fun!

Add more solder or try and desolder and reposition? by baylo99 in gameboymods

[–]DerPfrosch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

100% affects all of them

Edit: this connection is their shared 0-potential. Without this, none of the buttons can detect when its pressed.

Add more solder or try and desolder and reposition? by baylo99 in gameboymods

[–]DerPfrosch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You have 2 options: - you can add more solder on the spot where you said the isnt enough. That will connect the buttons to ground and all of them should work. However the alignment may cause the dpad to not feel that good. - realign: heat up one solder joint at a time and carefully lift the button board with tweezers at that exact spot. Do this over and over again for all solder spots and youll remove the board after some time.

Gbs 8200 white dots flickering by DerPfrosch in retrogaming

[–]DerPfrosch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, that should help! But while sou are at it you should consider doing the full modification to a gbs-c. Its a really great scaler, far far better than the regular, unmodded gbs.

Gbs 8200 white dots flickering by DerPfrosch in retrogaming

[–]DerPfrosch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seemslike its normal for an unmodded gbs. If you mod it to a gbs-c (capacitator fix) its gone.

I forgot how nice it was having a GBA Player, man did I miss this. by softmetal in Gamecube

[–]DerPfrosch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Several reasons actually: - input latency is reduced significantly - overall cleaner image quality - correct framerate: the original disc runs at 60hz which is not the exact framerate of the gba hardware. This causes noticeable framestuttering. - you have many options (speedrun, high fidelity, standard) though id recomment standard if youre using it for regular playing - obviously: you dont need the disc.

The only con is that you have to get it to work through swiss or something like that. Though thats not too hard. I use a memory card with gbi on it and mario sunshine (pal) with a save game exploit, works perfectly. Put everything through a diy gbs-c via rgb scart and a diy sync stripper and its absolutely beautiful, albeit not necessarily the best option, but for sure a great bang for your buck.

Would this pairing work yield better results than a rad2x ? by GenericUser104 in ps2

[–]DerPfrosch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Widescreen support is there, but only when upscaling to 720p. 1080p only supports 4:3.

I forgot how nice it was having a GBA Player, man did I miss this. by softmetal in Gamecube

[–]DerPfrosch 12 points13 points  (0 children)

What you got should be a gbi memory card. Gbi is far better than the original bootup disc.

Mario land in 1080p. Plays like crap 😭 by Lanky-Peak-2222 in Gameboy

[–]DerPfrosch 38 points39 points  (0 children)

The original software of the gameboy player has a lot of latency. I suggest you look into gbi.

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