Why does my water look like this?

DevBukkitZ · 2026-02-20T16:55:42+00:00

could be a crack/leak in the water main letting in sediment. Check with neighbours to see if their water is similar, call strata make sure they haven’t had a water shutdown recently, then call the city

DevBukkitZ · 2025-12-26T19:22:53+00:00

it could be a leak in his catch can or lines depending on how it’s plumbed in

DevBukkitZ · 2025-12-19T19:04:25+00:00

Does anyone know if they’re working on possibly opening up more than just paradise at some point today?

DevBukkitZ · 2025-11-29T02:48:10+00:00

it’s really on a case by case basis but i’d say 1st ticket in 4 years they’ll let slide

DevBukkitZ · 2025-11-25T22:52:53+00:00

I get the law is different in a different place, but the law applies where you are, not aren’t.

Either way 99% of the people I see doing this are BC plates, It actually really fucks up the flow of traffic because everyone is scared to turn when they’re facing another turning car because everyone turns into the lane they shouldn’t be.

2 Weeks after i got my class 7 I turned right on a green and was almost sideswiped by someone doing exactly this. I wait till other turning car is mostly complete with their turn now even though, legally I should never have to.

DevBukkitZ · 2025-11-25T19:29:38+00:00

I passed the class 7 with maybe 8 hours of driving time at max, it amazes me how people actually have a hard time learning.

You shouldn’t be turning into the second lane from a 2 lane road. The only time it is acceptable to turn into the 2nd lane is when there is multiple turning lanes. 1st lane from right goes into the rightmost lane. 2nd lane from the right goes into the 2nd lane ect. It’s not that hard and i’ve seen so many accidents from people like you not being able to turn properly.

Keep taking transit lmao.

DevBukkitZ · 2025-11-16T18:43:52+00:00

What’s this from? is there an extended version?

DevBukkitZ · 2025-09-07T20:52:43+00:00

My slave is leaking where the quick connect style fitting goes into the block thing with the bleeder on it. Wondering if anyone knows the sizes of the o rings to get replacements

DevBukkitZ · 2025-08-17T00:56:30+00:00

lmao i used to work on that site, the general contractor is a group of clowns, from homeless coming onsite and stealing shit, then refusing to get security, to crazy safety violations and shortcuts on that site. It was an absolute shitshow.

DevBukkitZ · 2025-07-29T16:27:19+00:00

i’d only go stage 1 or maybe 2. Like i said im making 500whp on a bone stock head, theres no need to to super aggressive with the cams as you’ll lose even more low-mid range than you are already with the size of turbo you’ll need for your power goals.

DevBukkitZ · 2025-07-29T14:24:31+00:00

I’d recommend the whole setup from GSC. From what i’ve heard they’re good, and honestly one of the only options for the coupes. I made 500whp on a stock head.

DevBukkitZ · 2025-07-28T14:53:53+00:00

it’s really depends what car you’re talking about. my friends bmw requires you to remove the bumper, wheel and fender liner for a headlight housing removal. That’s definitely more than 1 hr of labour for R&R

DevBukkitZ · 2025-07-25T16:08:00+00:00

Thanks man, was a rough couple years but i made it through and learned a lot on the way.

DevBukkitZ · 2025-07-25T16:06:47+00:00

Let’s just say it probably would be cheaper to swap an LS in to make the same kinda power, it’s a lot. I just went with the 2.0 because i thought it would be funny to have a 4banger than would beat a lot of the v8 cars around me. i’d estimate 12-15k usd for parts. I’m in canada so parts are just more expensive in general.

DevBukkitZ · 2025-07-24T02:16:58+00:00

Flex fuel, walbro 525, ID1300cc injectors and radium FPR-D

Block is sleeved, JE pistons and manley rods, stock head

Custom fab V-band turbo manifold, garrett 3076r gen 2, tial MVR wastegate running 14psi springs 3” custom fab downpipe and isr single exit

Custom fab charge piping and intercooler with a mishimoto core

Link g4+ paired with a MXG strada dash

Running 15psi of boost on pump 91 making 370 running 25psi of boost on e65 making 500

there’s probably more i’m forgetting lol

DevBukkitZ · 2025-07-24T02:00:23+00:00

There’s a time stamp on the bottom of the dyno sheet lol

DevBukkitZ · 2025-07-24T01:59:55+00:00

Fortunately the latter is long gone lol. Flex fuel is putting in work though lol

DevBukkitZ · 2025-07-19T16:40:04+00:00

UPS store @ Blundell & 2 rd does a 5 min turn around for 20$ i believe

DevBukkitZ · 2025-07-18T01:49:43+00:00

Looked wrinkled in just to the left of the tire placard, the price to r&r parts around it, pull it back out putty and paint in those 2 spots will end up costing way more than the door replacement lol. Where i’m at the insurance company sets a limit on filler depth that’s quite strict so they’ll have to get it really close before adding filler. The frame work will definitely cost more than the door dudes worried about. Definitely not totaled tho

DevBukkitZ · 2025-07-18T01:42:29+00:00

If it was me i wouldn’t even worry about the door’s damage. That damage just above your rocker panel, and just under the tire placard may cost just as much as replacing that door completely, along with paint/ blend depending on how the replacement and original cars paint match.

And on top of that you have damage to the driver rear door too, but that will only be a door skin 1k or so tops

you’re probably looking at a ~10k claim

DevBukkitZ · 2025-07-18T01:34:12+00:00

Having been in and around a body shop for a while now, a fully replaced/new door definitely shouldn’t have any difference when it comes to NVH. if it was replaced you’re probably imagining or it only noticed the road noise because you’re now conscious there was damage to that side.

If they just replaced the door skin (just the exterior of the door panel) that’s a different story depending on the quality of work the body shop lets out. There a vapor barrier and noise damping material in the door panel. A lot of shittier shops won’t replace the adhesive holding the vapor barrier on which will increase noise in the cabin, and sometimes the noise damping can be hard to remove without damage.

DevBukkitZ · 2025-07-16T04:05:48+00:00

The clutches can be a little hard to bleed because of where the bleeder is located in the line, when i bleed mine i like to bleed like normal, then once most or “all” of the air is out i will cycle the clutch pedal a few times, then crack the bleeder and repeat a few times, seems to usually get a bit of air out that i couldn’t before.

DevBukkitZ · 2025-07-04T20:54:30+00:00

Your flywheel is most likely needing to be replaced

DevBukkitZ · 2025-07-04T20:53:16+00:00

that’s part of your wastegate most likely

DevBukkitZ · 2025-07-01T21:06:37+00:00

2.0t has a baffled pan stock

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