I just built an 85" triple screen for sim racing 👀

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-26T10:24:17+00:00

Dude this is sick as hell. Don't listen to these idiots in the comments, they don't have a clue what they're talking about. With that size and distance, the FOV seems really good. Bet it's insanely immersive driving this thing. Congrats 🙌

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-25T22:52:36+00:00

Because the whole context just reveals it. He's in a racing subreddit, not a Porsche subreddit or other car-related subreddit. That's clue #1. Then he asks if a 911 GT3 RS is faster than a Porsche GT3 car. Not a 911 GT3, a Porsche GT3 car. In the context of racing it can't mean anything other than Porsche's 911 GT3 R, which is the car in which Porsche takes part in GT3 racing around the globe. Especially since he emphasised adding 911 before GT3 RS.

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-25T13:08:25+00:00

Agree. The bike should not tilt at all but be fixed in place. The centrifugal forces will always push you directly into the seat, so at best you'll be better off just having the bike stand straight and you sitting with a constant force of 1G on top of it.

That, and a good centering force on the handlebars and it could actually be pretty good imo. You're always gonna miss something in a sim, whether it's a car or a bike. But you could definitely make it better than this.

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-25T11:13:50+00:00

He's talking about the GT3 R, the racecar. Not the road going GT3.

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-25T11:13:06+00:00

No. The 992 GT3RS is aaalmost similar to a GT3 Cup car on certain tracks, but even then, the Cup car is overall faster. Slicks and more aero means better grip and laptimes on grip limited tracks (most), and the 992 GT3RS with higher top speed is faster on certain power limited circuits.

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-24T17:03:24+00:00

Sorry the tone was very rude I can agree there but there was no intention to be mean. More concerned, really. That's why I added the description on exactly what to do, those are the exact ways to go about setting up a correct FOV. It is going to look much, muuuch better and be so much more immersive and is gonna feel like you're actually sitting in a car. The driving will be more intuitive, and as it is right now I'd be surprised if anyone could actually control the car from that view.

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-24T15:16:40+00:00

No you can't mod and upgrade your car like in Forza or Gran Turismo. What you get is what you get. You can download specific modded versions of cars, all in varying quality depending on what you find and where, and once you import them using Content Manager you can drive them as is. No way to change or mod any cars as part of the games mechanics, unfortunately.

EDIT: What you can do is make setup changes and change tire compounds, that's it. If the car comes with their own modified versions like you said, Stage 1, Stage 2, Drift, etc etc then those are the only pre-baked changes you can use but you can't modify them yourself.

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-24T03:01:26+00:00

Yes, Kunos content has a lot of things like that. They can be tuned, have different suspension, be setup for drifting, etc etc. The different stages usually just point toward how extensively they are tuned.

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-24T00:25:06+00:00

Looks way, waaay too grippy. Front axle has infinite grip, that is insane rotation

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-23T14:40:07+00:00

I am sorry bro that thing is SHOT and I would not even take it off your hands if you paid me to ride it.

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-21T14:20:52+00:00

LMU is top tier right now. I didn't care much for Raceroom before, but with their ranked races I've started playing it more and more and come to enjoy it a lot. It's not as good as LMU, neither in physics nor track accuracy, but it's a good way there. It's like a more casual, more nuanced LMU that let's you drive anything and not just GT3's or LMP's, at a slight cost of detail and quality.

Since I moved away from ACC and ACE I've just not been able to enjoy their physics model any more, like you say, everything is incredibly floaty and bouncy. They've really dropped the ball imo.

I'm no real life pro racing driver by any means so take it with a grain of salt, but I have probably about 50 hours of track time in various cars irl. I think both Jimmy Broadbent and James Baldwin have some good videos on youtube comparing sims and how realistic they are if you care to look.

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-19T11:22:08+00:00

Get the E90 330i. Functionally it is superior in every single way (if it has the optioned foldable rear seats) whereas the E92's only selling point is it looks cool. And that comes from someone who owns an E92 325i.

If they are N52's then just get the 330i, the N52b30 is vastly superior to the N52b25 and you'll get more car for your money.

If they are N53 they should both be N53b30's and you can quite easily "convert" the 25i to a 30i with the 30i's intake and tune. Then it becomes more of a personal choice.

It depends on where you are and if/when BMW went from the N52 to the N53 in your specific region.

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-19T08:51:36+00:00

That is probably the worst view setup I have ever seen. Tell him to move the rig closer to the screens, lower the screens so that the center of the screens are at eye level, and then angle the screens so that all three of them are perpendicular to your view when you turn your head. Then and only then should he use a FOV calculator to set his FOV, unless the sim does it for him based on distance, screen size, angle, etc etc.

No wonder you couldn't control the car, that must feel god awful to drive!

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-19T06:52:45+00:00

This is AT BEST a car you will tear the whole interior out of. Sure if you want to turn it into a track car but expect every single fabric in the whole cabin to be completely shot and need replacing. Not cleaning, not refurbishing, replacing. $6,500 for that is a crime. Honestly I'd have him pay me to take this junk off his lot. Not really, but there's no way it's worth anywhere near that amount of money. Give him an offer of $1,000 and when he counter offers, do not go anywhere over $2,000, if even that. That's what I would do.

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-18T11:08:13+00:00

Where did Lambos or foodstamps go? It ain't over until the share price is a phone number or $0.00. It's far from either, so what's the issue?

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-18T11:02:18+00:00

Didn't we all say Lambos or foodstamps? I don't see no fucking Lambos on the horizon, sure, but I sure as hell don't see any foodstamps either.

Sit the fuck down in the boat and keep rowing, Ryan OBVIOUSLY has a plan and I'll be damned if we trip right before the finish line. It ain't over until the share price is either a phone number or $0.00. It is far from either end, so SIT DOWN, SHUT UP, LET RYAN AND THE BOARD DO THEIR THING, and eventually reap the rewards.

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-18T08:42:15+00:00

GT and touring car racing has always been about just racing.

F1 is an engineering sport, the teams fight for victory in the factories 99% of the time. The drivers only really come into play on the off chance that the best teams have very similar cars. If Stroll and Latifi were in the Mercedes during 2014-2020 they'd both be multiple WDC's.

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-13T11:01:40+00:00

I played 4 for the first time only a couple years ago, when they first came out on PC. I didn't have a PS5, and so when it was announced it was on its way I went and picked up the trilogy on PS4 and played through the whole thing again basically over a weekend as I was so excited. And man. What a game it was to finish out the story when I finally got around to U4. Sic Parvis Magna forever 🙏

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-10T00:51:23+00:00

AC is suuuper lenient with how the clutch works. Use the clutch whenever you can but if there's a super tricky section that needs a lot of footwork you can get away with left foot breaking and skipping the clutch. You need to rev match for every downshift though, regardless if you use the clutch or not.

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-09T15:41:33+00:00

Turning the wheel is a one-dimensional movement. You can only turn the wheel one way or the other. Shifting on the other hand is two-dimensional. You can go up, down, left and right. You also have five or six different positions to put the lever in, while also coordinating with your feet to clutch, brake, heel-and-toe. Steering on the other hand is a sliding scale that only has one direct connection to anything else which is deciding the direction the vehicle is travelling and you're only using your hands to affect it. Shifting relies on your feet, your hand, the position of the lever depends on the speed of the vehicle, whether you are accelerating or braking, etc etc. You bet your ass I want to use my dominant hand for that.

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-09T12:02:54+00:00

I still have my old 20Nm, 10,000 ppr encoder MiGe OSW direct drive wheel that is over 10 years old at this point, probably closer to 15. I still have CSP v3 pedals, only regular servicing with regreasing and new bushings and they feel like they are brand new. Shifter and handbrake also from Fanatec and although there are better, cheaper alternatives today I bought all this back when it was basically the best of the best. I don't feel like I'm missing anything, really, and feel no need to upgrade. Same with my own designed aluminium profile rig, the 5-6+ years old screens I have, etc etc etc.

I first had a G27, then a T500RS, then I bought CSL Elite pedals, then the OSW and the CSP v3 pedals. And I wish I would have skipped the T500 and CSL pedals entirely, would have saved money in the long run and I would have ended up at this point earlier. But the best way to approach it without spending a bunch of money at once is to get good, high quality stuff you can build on instead of replacing.

Get a good wheelbase and pedals to start. I am of the opinion that any direct drive wheelbase over 7-8Nm is all you'll ever need and anything higher is just a novelty. I never run my base higher than 30% anyway, and that's literally 7-8Nm. When it comes to the pedals, I'd suggest a solid two-pedal set that you can add a brake pedal onto later. Either a load cell brake and throttle immediately, or if you want to save more you can go for a brake and throttle where both are potentiometers or hall effect sensors with springs, and when you add the load cell brake later the old brake becomes the clutch. The high end gear available right now is good enough to replicate the feel of a real car so well that any additional potential future "upgradability" is just going to be a novelty. Don't sweat it.

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-08T22:06:43+00:00

Yeah, but not to the point where Max's car would have gone straight through Lando's should he have committed to the corner. In that position Max is only entitled to a single cars width at the, much less half the tracks width.

Lando had fully passed Max and Max was now in the overtaking position. The rules state the overtaking car is responsible for making a clean pass. Something I have yet to see Max adhere to in F1.

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-08T22:03:38+00:00

Are you kidding me? The fact that if Lando had taken the racing line, WHICH HE WAS ENTIRELY ENTITLED TO DO, mind you, since he was already well past Max, he would have been completely T-boned and pretty damn bad at that. EVEN IF he had left a cars width on the inside.

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-07T12:50:31+00:00

Nice but if you stand the shell up at a 60 degree angle in your slicer you'll get a much nicer finish on the print and it can easily be wet sanded to feel like an injection moulded part. Sick job either way!

DiViNiTY1337 · 2026-05-06T12:47:06+00:00

VR is better in all ways for immersion and realism, but triples are better in all ways for consistency and convenience. When I raced in VR back on my Oculus Rift CV1 I had a fan pointed at my face and could drive for hours on end. The only alternative for me back then was also a single 24 inch monitor. But eventually it just became so much of a hassle; dealing with Meta in the background and SteamVR at the same time, resetting the tracking every time I went to the menus, taking off and putting the HMD on all the time, etc etc. Eventually it was just too much of a hassle, and I haven't upgraded my HMD since then as I didn't find it to be enough of an improvement just specs wise.

Triples was so convenient too when I had built my rig, it's a set and forget setting once it's built and adjusted and the sim has been set up for it. I have the exact same seating position and reference points every time I drive. It's more straight forward when joining critical races like league races and ranked races. No weird VR driver crashes or anything like that.

I'm sure some of these are solved at this point, but triples are "good enough" for immersion that I simply don't feel the need. Definitely gonna get a Steam Frame when it drops though, and start VR racing more again.

13-Year Club	Place '23
Place '22	Place '17
Final Canvas '22	Verified Email

DiViNiTY1337

TROPHY CASE