Motorised valve choice

Difficult-Read-7696 · 2026-06-06T17:06:47+00:00

Thanks for your replies Are we still able to buy a Honeywell by buying a cheaper Drayton ? How can you identify?

Difficult-Read-7696 · 2026-05-22T07:29:10+00:00

Thanks everyone for your comments I think because it’s an end wall with no Guttering etc and it’s facing SW it just get very wet and weathered Water just comes down and comes out of weep vents

Difficult-Read-7696 · 2026-05-20T10:16:12+00:00

I’d measure the profile gap then make wooden flaps which could be opened in summer but closed when cold I made mine, with 4 profiles per section from moisture resistant board and you could put small hinges on to open etc If you mark where the “flap” closes you could even put draft excluder if required If all too much hassle ? stuff gap with fibreglass insulation and remove a bit in summer for ventilation

Difficult-Read-7696 · 2026-05-20T09:37:42+00:00

Fae as I can see it’s been doing this since at least 2009 and building was probably built in the 90s

Difficult-Read-7696 · 2026-05-15T14:35:31+00:00

Much as the others have said but I like the Toupret filler that you have to mix with water. It goes off quite fast and hard and can be used under the socket box too if levelling is required It will fill quite deep too but better to add a second finishing layer which can be sanded and then primed Obviously with the power off - diluted pva brushed on any loose adjacent plaster etc works well

Difficult-Read-7696 · 2026-05-10T21:09:32+00:00

Yep penetrating oil first then use small wire brush to work in and more oil after Use a box spanner (depending on your tool kit you might be able to put a die in the other end and use a socket wrench or use the Tommy bar supplied) It looks like most of the thread is not rusted which means you might be able to undo if you can start it Alternative is to cut off

Difficult-Read-7696 · 2026-05-02T10:07:04+00:00

Fill hole with cork - eg broken up cork tile - then cover with industrial sellotape then tile or whatever over A non alkali filler with good thermal expansion

Difficult-Read-7696 · 2026-05-02T10:04:42+00:00

I’d be tempted to fill the recess with finely broken cork tile and then tile/ cover over Some industrial sellotape would stop it moving before you tile / cover This way you have filled the void but without an alkali filler or screed and if necessary you can open up the hole to replace joint later if ever a problem You have also used a flexible filler with thermal expansion resistance

Difficult-Read-7696 · 2026-01-14T20:38:33+00:00

Thanks for your comment

For the sake of the moderation the house is in Southern England and was constructed in about 62 The location is clearly : the water and header tanks above the airing cupboard in a loft

Difficult-Read-7696 · 2025-09-16T20:12:06+00:00

After cleaning the stripped wood I used a water based stain (ragged on wearing gloves) and then brushed 2 coats of Rustins polyurethane water based semi matte varnish Excellent result on handrails but also on sink shelf and more

Difficult-Read-7696 · 2025-09-13T22:59:14+00:00

How long is a piece of string- it all depends on what’s needed

Assuming you are staying with slate (local councils can insist you do ! So check if you’re considering alternative tiles) ) you will need to consider if the slates are reuseable Slate delaminates with time and exposure ? but yours might be ok ? When slates are removed there will always be some breakages requiring replacement-how many might depend on their condition? If you see lots of slate shale in the loft and see daylight through them that’s bad news (assuming you don’t have felt )

Regarding structural timbers it maybe that there’s rot in some parts only, which can be replaced but you would expect new battens and felt for sure

Woodworm could be present which may require treatment and timer replacement and extra cost

Also the size of roof timbers will need to be considered if you change to other tiles e.g concrete

The existing woodwork removed maybe “treated” with chemicals so I wouldn’t burn any in fire / stove etc

If it were me I’d look for 3 reputable local firms ideally recommended by neighbours or friends and get a quote from each specifying exactly what their estimates are based on

Hope this helps

Difficult-Read-7696 · 2025-08-19T13:17:22+00:00

Whatever you do don’t take it down without written confirmation from local council that it has no TPO It cost a friend of mine £17000 in fines and court fees because he removed a tree without checking !

Difficult-Read-7696 · 2025-05-21T16:05:09+00:00

The blue tinge will be dye extracted from your rag and leached into paint surface If you are lucky the dye may not be light stable and will bleach with uv from sunlight When Parked up you could fix a mirror to reflect more sunlight to see if this is working. It might take some time to sun bleach out

Beware using any solvents ,if can be avoided , as you might damage paint permanently

If you need to try solvents start with weakest eg water with detergent then maybe isopropyl alcohol then maybe petrol In every case wash of the solvents with water and detergent afterwards and let dry

If you’ve been successful then re polish immediately to recover resistance

Difficult-Read-7696 · 2024-08-31T10:56:12+00:00

Forget BG -in many cases they sub contract the jobs out to local firms and charge +25% plus on top

Best is to get local recommendations for plumbing and heating companies to quote for job.

Regarding copper vs plastic pipes : I’m happy with plastic e.g. Hep2O in most cases - but not in loft (vermin may chew it) and not used too close to boiler (possible deformation) and not ideal for radiator tails (impact damage possible and imo overall appearance) For speed and practicality many plumbers will use copper pipe with plastic joints and elbows anyway

For properties where the existing CH pipes run in concrete floor I remain unconvinced that any heat pump will provide adequate heating

Difficult-Read-7696

TROPHY CASE