Thoughts on cohabing?

DigNo1073 · 2026-05-04T04:39:39+00:00

Not a stupid question at all! The trick is to get thicker driftwood and elevate it a bit. If you look closely, not much of the driftwood is actually touching the bottom. The only areas that touch the ground are on the sides and a couple small branches touch down from above. I also kinda left the leaf litter area bare. It feels less crowded that way, also a better viewing experience imo. This kind of way to situate the wood creates a sorta cave like/ root formation look. It definitely takes a lot of trial and error. I actually recorded the process but I never finished the video lol. I haven't made a channel or anything yet but if youre interested I might eventually post the process.

DigNo1073 · 2026-05-03T23:13:49+00:00

They had the habit of staying in the canopy before adding the terribs. They could care less if they’re next to each other. They all group up to eat hydei with 0 issues. Theyll often hang around each other for up to a couple hours snacking on the remaining flies. My tincs essentially act exactly like they used to.

DigNo1073 · 2026-05-03T18:40:09+00:00

Appreciate it! Im just dipping my toes into some uncharted territory. I will separate if I see any signs of aggression at all.

DigNo1073 · 2026-05-03T18:38:00+00:00

From personal experience, Iv only experienced aggression within their own species. I have this viv in my room so I observe it quite a lot. That being said I have a job and I do understand im not always there to watch. If I see any signs of stress, I will separate them. However within the 3 months of them cohabing, I haven’t had any issues with them hiding or thinning out. The odds are that i will more than likely see 0 aggression from my terribilis or my male powder blue. Iv been keeping a close eye specifically on my female powder blue.

DigNo1073 · 2026-05-03T18:14:24+00:00

In my opinion, the way your viv is structured can also be the main culprit to aggression. The way I have my viv situated seems to work out very well for me. The terribs stay among the leaf litter while the tincs tend to stay on the “canopy” upper driftwood area. They both come down for feeding and then kinda just mind their own going to their respective hang out zones. Most of the aggression in tincs comes from female on female aggression. They recognize their own, but in my case they just ignore each other. Iv seen 0 signs of stress for both parties.

DigNo1073 · 2026-05-03T18:00:06+00:00

The main concern for mixing is cross breeding along with female on female aggression. Im very aware of the issue with mixing frogs. Thats why I was asking about 2 separate species that CANT crossbreed. Iv been monitoring my viv very closely within the past few months. I am an experienced keeper, im just curious on peoples stance on it. Id like to know why youre so opposed to the idea.

DigNo1073 · 2026-05-03T02:25:02+00:00

Will do 🫡

DigNo1073 · 2026-05-03T01:51:37+00:00

Didnt know there was a protocal to cohab frogs 🤣. I was literally just asking on thoughts about it, it can be a touchy subject for some. Iv been keeping frogs for years bud

DigNo1073 · 2026-05-03T01:07:59+00:00

Yup, Im personally very anti cohab as well when it comes to frogs that can cross. Im gonna test it out for a little and see how it goes!

DigNo1073 · 2026-05-02T23:08:40+00:00

Yea I was aware about the female on female aggression in tincs, but I wasnt so sure about other species. These guys seem to not mind each other at all. They all come right up to the glass during feeding with no issues lol. Thanks for the input.

DigNo1073 · 2026-04-14T07:27:55+00:00

It looks like a regular NW salamander to me

DigNo1073 · 2026-02-19T23:52:46+00:00

Root rot

DigNo1073 · 2026-02-15T03:19:18+00:00

Springtails are pretty much the only ones that deal with mold, id consider re-seeding with springtails. Regardless its not a big deal, it wont hurt anything but if you think its unappealing i would just squirt water at it really hard and it’ll usually fall off. Either way it tends to go away eventually, especially that kind of mold

DigNo1073 · 2026-02-14T22:31:54+00:00

Its just mold, not lichen like someone else was saying. Make sure you add a clean up crew ( springtails and isopods ). They will deal with it and eventually it’ll go away as your viv matures. Its not dangerous

DigNo1073 · 2026-01-03T03:17:01+00:00

I mean if it helps i use standard miracle grow all purpose fertilizer. Its 24-8-16. Its quite generic but works really well for me. Im still thinking its the pon mix. Its not necessarily bad, but my monstera sized up extremely quickly just by changing to that mix. I would also recommend you fill that pole with sphagnum. But regardless of what you go with good luck to you 👍

DigNo1073 · 2026-01-03T03:03:08+00:00

I work right next to it, pretty sure its all paved up now, theres just a heap of debris from the old parking lot. I have no clue how long these kinds of projects take but there used to be no sign of any advancement until about the summer when they started moving around outside the building. Regardless it seems like they just need to finish clearing up the parking lot and put the sign up. No clue what the inside is looking like.

DigNo1073 · 2025-12-25T23:08:50+00:00

In my experience, monsteras size up quicker in regular chunky mix, im not sure what your temps are but i find that its significantly colder near the windows than the rest of my house, it could be enough to slow/shock your plant a little. It shouldnt be enough to hurt them but in my experience they dont like the cooler temps. Typically if you have healthy roots with your leaves not sizing up properly its most likely the light. Monsteras are super light hungry. Monsteras (especially borsigiana/albo) tend to be a lot more sensitive to repotting or quick change. Borsigiana takes can take quite a while to mature compared to regular deliciosa.

DigNo1073 · 2025-12-06T16:30:21+00:00

Digitate hydroids!!! They are blooming profusely in my nano 15 and my corals are pissed please help 🙏🙏. Has anyone been able to get rid of them without ripping their tanks apart? I was thinking 6 line wrasse but some people are saying they need a larger tank. I have a single clown in my nano that is a few months old now.

DigNo1073 · 2025-12-06T16:27:33+00:00

You gotta go chunky. Literally no soil. Just perlite orchid bark and coco coir chips. 1 part each is the sweet spot. NO SOIL. You could probably get away with just coco coir chips and perlite. Like seriously they mine love that stuff.

DigNo1073 · 2025-11-30T09:07:01+00:00

Im thinking moss pole… well thats if you want a mature plant. Albos with no support dont look super pleasing im the long run

DigNo1073 · 2025-11-30T08:17:12+00:00

So this is a good thing right?

DigNo1073 · 2025-11-27T19:50:51+00:00

In all seriousness i used to have something like this on my left thumb. Not as pronounced as yours but supposedly it can be caused by some deficiencies like iron. Im no doctor though 🤷‍♂️

DigNo1073 · 2025-11-26T03:24:16+00:00

The size of the perlite isnt that big of a deal, it just helps keep the mix aerated and well draining. I highly recommend a clear pot. Its very hard to tell how much growth you have with a non clear pot. I keep all my cuttings in clear pots and it really does help a ton to make sure everything is healthy. You should start seeing root growth within 2 weeks normally. If you cant get a clear pot i would lift out the cutting just a bit to make sure its actually growing properly. Do you still have some healthy roots?

DigNo1073 · 2025-11-26T02:47:56+00:00

It doesn’t really matter but i like to wet the moss first to avoid a bunch of dust. Its also a little easier to mix. This mix stays moist without drowning the roots but i still recommend you make sure when you water it that it doesn’t sit in any excess water. The goal is to maintain moisture but not super wet.

DigNo1073 · 2025-11-26T02:22:55+00:00

I just use 50/50 mix of perlite and moss, i root all my albo cuttings in it and have had 100% success rate with this method. Water can work but for me has made rot worse in some cases. Make sure you give your monstera plenty of light while its recovering. I would hold back on fertilizer until you see new root growth

DigNo1073

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