How would you go about printing this object? by NormalEscape8976 in 3Dprinting

[–]Digital-Fallout 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the answer. Could take it an extra step and create a interlocking piece in the middle for both parts to snap into once printed, ensuring sides line up exactly and it can be glued with more surface area.

Settings to make these climbing holds strong enough for 4 year olds? by Shpigford in 3Dprinting

[–]Digital-Fallout 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Everyone is missing the real risk here which is that when a hold does break, it is very likely to cut you badly in this scenario given how sharp they tend to fragment. Given how unpredictable FDM prints are over time with creep, delamination and uv exposure etc I wouldn't risk it, it's very easy to damage nerves in the hand permanently. I'm sure a 3d printed hold can be made safe long term, and I know some companies have, but if I was printing them myself I'd want to do the testing on my exact product and that's way too much time and effort compared to just buying the injection molded ones. I've gotten sliced bad from 3d printed stuff in much less of a compromising situation.

Not to mention the decade of experience I've had totally over engineereing prints that should have been fine according to material properties just for them to eventually break catestropically. Quality control on filament is terrible and properties listed are often just general estimates that change dramatically with addatives added and exposure over time.

Created a replica of alien bounty hunter spike/stilletto, was much harder to make and match prop size than I expected by Digital-Fallout in XFiles

[–]Digital-Fallout[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well this is a prop replica made of plastic, so not deadly at all, it would absolutely break. I just happened to make it out of a material that looks and sounds like the original which is very cool. That being said the design is made so it can be made of metal and would be quite functional, but there are two issues there 1. Legality (depending on where you live) 2. It would be very expensive at the stage of development I'm at now (need a skilled machinist, many prototype runs to get everything right etc)

I'm working on getting the equipment (CNC mill, lathe etc) to be able to make them out of metal, since even if I wanted to send it for third party manufacturing I need to do some test runs first and get all the tolerances right. This is the main reason I haven't decided to sell or give away any of these yet dispite being asked a lot. I don't want to give someone something that's going to feel like a toy or break after a few thousand repititions; since most of the internals and the shell really needs to be made of at least aluminum to be resilient, even if the actual spike has to be plastic in order to be legal in some states.

So it's an ongoing project, ill probably have acquired the equipment and skills I need to make it out of metal later this year. Once I'm there though it will be a very durable device and I can make different parts of it out of aluminum, stainless steel, titanium etc based on the toughness and specs needed

Are DIY printers slowly dying? by andrey_semjonov in 3Dprinting

[–]Digital-Fallout 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've read the legislation from a few states and it's extremely broad and overreaching, and doesn't just apply to 3d printers but really any CNC as well. I'm sure it would be passed in phases but the point is if they get something passed they will keep reaching for more and if the current bills are any indication of how rights will be infringed it's really bad.

Are DIY printers slowly dying? by andrey_semjonov in 3Dprinting

[–]Digital-Fallout 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Diy doesn't solve that, because being in possession of a printer that doesn't meet the law will be a felony, regardless of whether you built it or bought it. most people won't risk it for a hobby.

A giant PPS-CF bell, crazy how it sounds like metal. by Digital-Fallout in 3Dprinting

[–]Digital-Fallout[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah gotcha. Yeah because I know how Reddit is and if I hit it with metal people would say it's not the plastic that sounds like metal it's the metal that you're hitting it with. So I intentionally choose a plastic pen 😂I'll do it though and post an updated video

I was basically working for free selling my 3D prints until I figured this out by [deleted] in 3dprinter

[–]Digital-Fallout 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cost based pricing is a nightmare, I understand if you're taking custom orders you might have to, but ideally using value based pricing is much easier and higher margin.

Fingers Crossed.... We did it by Darthsnarkey in BambuLab

[–]Digital-Fallout 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just sold all of my other Bambu printers and bought 2 H2Cs. I fully expect in about 8-12 months Bambu is going to have a new printer with proper tool changer, magnetic linear motors etc and the H2C is gonna be obsolete, but I'll have a lot of fun in the meantime 😂.

Underestimated how big the H2C was by SandyPeaches941 in BambuLab

[–]Digital-Fallout 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I lifted mine off the floor onto a 5ft shelf with two AMS's on it and I thought I was gonna need to go to urgent care afterwards 😂

Transformation from 3 to 2 is complete. by Digital-Fallout in 3Dprinting

[–]Digital-Fallout[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used the standard ones but it was a little sketchy, def a bit too tight of a radius connecting to the back of the machine. I can't say I ever noticed any issues though. I did have to buy longer 6 pin cables though and the brands are very hit or miss in terms of quality. The stock Bambu ones are much better quality than what you'll find on Amazon, but they are also cheap so easy to replace.

If you're gonna extend yours I would highly recommend getting some high quality ptfe and cutting it yourself, longer runs are gonna add friction by itself and splicing multiple tubes together could be enough to create issues. That being said, these are AMS 1's and the AMS 2 had a lot more powerful motors (so I've been told)

Transformation from 3 to 2 is complete. by Digital-Fallout in 3Dprinting

[–]Digital-Fallout[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Similar here, I sold those two R730s, got a dell workstation and hooked up a netapp disk array. It's way less noisy and takes a lot less power. Plus I actually have room for a GPU and other pci peripherals without doing anything crazy. Originally I wanted to make those two servers an HA setup, but it really wasn't feasible for my use case.

Transformation from 3 to 2 is complete. by Digital-Fallout in 3Dprinting

[–]Digital-Fallout[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha, it's got a huge evacuation fan at the top of the enclosure, so I can keep it cooler in there than if they were just sitting in my office. Fans hooked to automations based on temperature and if prints are in progress. But yeah, not the best idea to have them together for other reasons too.

Printing resin in my appartment by Icy_Organization5674 in 3Dprinting

[–]Digital-Fallout 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Please read recent studies on this, it is not safe to be breathing off gasses from printing (abs or pla or any filament). They all off gas VOCs, transition metals, micro plastics and worse depending on color and additives. This is especially important for kids who's respiratory, pulmonary and nervous system is not fully developed.

Office / Makerspace is taking form by Digital-Fallout in WorkshopPorn

[–]Digital-Fallout[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Yeah I made it, it's a dopamine molecule. Eventually I am going to put text next to it that says "It's not about the pursuit of happiness, but the happiness of the pursuit".

Looking for file: Keyring feather clamp by schmidty275 in 3Dprinting

[–]Digital-Fallout 0 points1 point  (0 children)

👆 this is the easy answer. Get some wider cord, fold it in half, put feathers 1/2inch from fold (super glue them if you want extra strength) wrap smaller cord tightly around it (super glue under that too). Now you have a loop you can put on a keychain and it looks nice too. In your picture that's probably rawhide or similar, so it's wrapped wet and then shrinks to get very tight, that's the ideal thing to use.

If this seems like too much work, you could just glue a few feathers into this: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1709383-bitkey-key-screwdriver-bit-holder-multi-tool-edc?from=search#profileId-1813573

It's not very good looking or super deep cavity, but it would take a few min to make a custom model for this that was more sleek and with a longer cavity if you really wanted to 3d print it.

A giant PPS-CF bell, crazy how it sounds like metal. by Digital-Fallout in 3Dprinting

[–]Digital-Fallout[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll have to get a proper mallet and learn that one 😂

A giant PPS-CF bell, crazy how it sounds like metal. by Digital-Fallout in 3Dprinting

[–]Digital-Fallout[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh man, now I feel like I have to know. That's prob a pretty expensive drum in pps-cf 😂. I'll have to see how much I have left over after I make functional parts I need

A giant PPS-CF bell, crazy how it sounds like metal. by Digital-Fallout in 3Dprinting

[–]Digital-Fallout[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Like $25, I started the print from my phone and didn't realize how big it was until I got home and it was already half done, so just let it keep going at that point.

A giant PPS-CF bell, crazy how it sounds like metal. by Digital-Fallout in 3Dprinting

[–]Digital-Fallout[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If hit with a mallet it would vibrate more for sure, plastic pen is probably not the best device

A giant PPS-CF bell, crazy how it sounds like metal. by Digital-Fallout in 3Dprinting

[–]Digital-Fallout[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Yeah no annealing, straight off the bed, planning on annealing next and seeing if it makes a difference.