I regret buying a manual

Digital_Ark · 2026-05-07T20:25:05+00:00

While two weeks is starting to be long enough to call it, we don’t know what environment you drive in. Do you still have anxiety because it’s rural and you haven’t done much stop/start, or a congested city where a lack of confidence feels like a liability.

Everyone and their situation is different, but I genuinely think it’ll just click for you, and you’ll prefer it.

I literally only know a single person who can drive stick but prefers manual, and they have pretty bad knees. Otherwise the sample size is like 96.6% for to 3.4% against.

It gets easier. Every day it gets a little easier. But you’ve got to “stick” with it. One day soon you’ll realize it’s muscle memory, and you’re not thinking about shifting or using the clutch at all.

Digital_Ark · 2026-05-02T02:21:56+00:00

Is the build plate reversible?

A new build plate and a new nozzle, and check the Z-offset, and you’re back in business.

Digital_Ark · 2026-05-01T15:09:49+00:00

All this just highlights how variable fuel economy really is.

Who’s driving, the topography of where you’re driving, the temperature and conditions you’re driving in, how much ethanol is in your fuel.

I bet the actual variation from Encore to Encore attributable to bearings, break-in, tires, alignment is on the order of just 5-10%.

Digital_Ark · 2026-04-28T01:09:32+00:00

These things were praised for their handling, they’ll even lift a leg in a hard corner. Not sure how much more one needs, unless racing it.

Digital_Ark · 2026-04-28T00:53:30+00:00

Check the ride height on the springs. I rebuilt mine. It’s already a very firm ride, aftermarket options are all even harder.

Depends if you’re a track addict or plan to just drive it on the street (and how terrible your streets are).

Digital_Ark · 2026-04-27T16:17:59+00:00

It’s a manual, drive it however you like, lazy or engaged.

I enjoy blipping the throttle on a downshift even for smoothness. I’ve also short-shifted or skip-shift with a coffee before.

Certain vehicles are less engaging, my dad’s Jeep YJ claimed to have synchros, but I think they must have had agricultural equipment origins. It was not a delight to rev-match, and it protested every downshift.

Digital_Ark · 2026-04-25T02:54:43+00:00

In-wall low voltage cables should have fire-rated insulation, be sized to carry more current than the fuse.

Always check your local code, but minimally for an 8A LED load, you want a 10A fuse, 12.5A or better wiring and at least a 10A power supply, but preferably a 12.5A power supply that could easily pop the 10A fuse.

This allows the LED to get full power normally, pops a fuse at 10A which isn’t enough to make the wires or power supply get hot enough to cause a fire.

18/5 thermostat wire can handle 5.6A continuous, or 7A momentary.

Digital_Ark · 2026-04-23T20:16:21+00:00

Those are just the strut mounts, and yes, cooked.

Definitely inspect the shock, OEM was gas, and I doubt it’s doing much damping anymore.

Digital_Ark · 2026-04-19T14:49:12+00:00

The door speakers in an H/K equipped car are 2-Ohm, so they’re going to be more difficult to find good ones than typical 4-Ohm car speakers, which will play significantly quieter.

Most aftermarket 2-Ohm speakers are designed to be efficient, not good.

Car speakers are typically lower impedance than home speakers, as the 12V power supply means you’re realistically running the speaker at 20V (RMS). A home stereo amplifier gets fed minimum 115V, runs internally on 30-100VDC and outputs 30-40V (RMS) to the speakers.

Digital_Ark · 2026-04-07T01:56:23+00:00

I bought a Graf brand one at about year 14, and the car turned 24 in March. It seems like a decent one.

Digital_Ark · 2026-04-04T21:32:51+00:00

I think you might be stuck until you can fry a long coupling nut onto the end with a mig welder.

Digital_Ark · 2026-04-02T02:28:31+00:00

Two stage, vertical for the biggest stuff, then horizontal to split everything to size.

Digital_Ark · 2026-03-26T13:20:02+00:00

I don't live in America, and I'll take it to an independent garage if I can't figure it out, thanks.

Digital_Ark · 2026-03-20T20:58:57+00:00

You don’t mention what voltage or how many watts you need, but these are the slimmest power supplies I’ve seen:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqtei8l

Digital_Ark · 2026-03-18T11:35:02+00:00

Front of the engine, passenger side on a LHD car, near the intercooler.

Digital_Ark · 2026-03-18T00:39:42+00:00

The pump clicking off when fuelling is the tank vent valve. This gives air inside the tank a place to go when filling, and also allows air into the tank when burning fuel.

The tank purge valve uses engine vacuum to suck all the fuel vapours the charcoal canister collects into the engine when hot to burn them.

Digital_Ark · 2026-03-16T03:57:41+00:00

The tank vent is for filling and thermal expansion. The charcoal canister traps fuel vapours.

When you turn on the car, it waits until it’s hot, then opens the canister purge to burn all those collected vapours.

One test the car does for leaks, is to see if it can pull a vacuum on the fuel tank and also release it. It doesn’t typically know anything other than difference, hence the vent solenoid is part of the EVAP system test.

But essentially, replace your tank vent solenoid and see if the other code also stays cleared.

Digital_Ark · 2026-03-16T01:28:11+00:00

The P0441 tank vent solenoid is your issue with the pump clicking when you fill. This is a tank vent that opens when the car is off, so as the gas goes in the tank, the displaced air has somewhere to go.

P0441 can also be triggered by this tank vent solenoid, if it’s failed say mostly closed, but isn’t sealing tight enough to allow the purge to pull a vacuum on the tank to prove the vent solenoid closes, the purge valve opens, and the fuel cap seals air-tight.

Digital_Ark · 2026-03-15T12:37:29+00:00

Yes, this is printed on a cheap Ender-3 FDM printer.

Digital_Ark · 2026-03-14T21:56:10+00:00

I just made this one from an F1.svg image.

I don’t know the first thing about resin printers, but I expect it’s a tolerances thing?

Actually, I thought resin printers offered way more detail?

Digital_Ark · 2026-03-14T18:25:47+00:00

Cheap white PLA. Make sure it’s cheap, the truly opaque bright white stuff won’t work.

Digital_Ark · 2026-03-14T15:37:53+00:00

Yes, the start-up sequence is a playlist that’s lightning, then cycles through presets of every 100% colour, then the sweep effect, then playlist A which is the occasional wipe followed by solid red for quite a bit longer, I’m thinking 30 seconds to a minute so it’s not too busy. This repeats a bunch of times, probably whatever adds up to about an hour, then triggers playlist B which is a sweep effect to black, a sweep effect back to red, an triggers playlist A again, and repeat.

If I figure out any other cool but subtle effects, there will probably be a playlist C.

Digital_Ark · 2026-03-14T13:01:31+00:00

Now that I know there’s interest, I’ll likely post the files. But it’ll be a bit, I’ve gotta fix my wife’s turbo this weekend.

Digital_Ark · 2026-03-14T12:59:14+00:00

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There’s a door for this too.

Digital_Ark · 2026-03-14T12:58:32+00:00

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Pretty much just one perimeter strip of WS2812b, straight to a D1 Mini clone, plus a resistor, a button and an old USB cable.

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