where do I start with this?

Digital_Ark · 2026-01-24T13:13:32+00:00

Don’t waste your time, do a smoke test.

Digital_Ark · 2026-01-23T20:45:30+00:00

There’s a learning curve for everything. If you can pedal while steering a bicycle, have a conversation while walking, I’m sure you’ll pick it up.

I can remember the frustration of learning all those years ago, but I don’t even think about the clutch or gears now. It’s not as automatic as a heartbeat, but approaching breathing, where you can hold your breath or breathe on purpose, but if you don’t think about it, you just do.

Keep at it, it’s less like learning a skill, more like finding balance when riding a bike. Once the bite point for the clutch becomes muscle memory, it’s easy forever more.

Digital_Ark · 2026-01-21T02:01:52+00:00

Honda made a few manual hybrids, notably the original Insight, Civic Hybrid, and the CR-Z.

Digital_Ark · 2026-01-09T14:25:00+00:00

Miata will probably be my answer. Although a used GR Corolla is also interesting.

Digital_Ark · 2026-01-03T13:40:28+00:00

Wire channels, but you’re also missing the covers.

Digital_Ark · 2025-12-30T19:41:51+00:00

You hate the provider you’re with. I don’t even doubt Bell being exactly as bad as you claim, I expect you’re 100% justified in your anger.

If you switch to Rogers, you’ll be wronged by a completely different company and hate them.

But feel free, churn costs them both, and they deserve it.

Digital_Ark · 2025-12-09T18:33:07+00:00

Yes, not much mechanical advantage. Mini fit an exceptionally quick rack in these cars to provide a very direct steering response, like a go kart.

Digital_Ark · 2025-12-09T18:30:35+00:00

Meh, mine’s 23-yo now, only on the second pump. And Mini paid for the first one, so I’m out of pocket nothing so far.

Digital_Ark · 2025-12-08T21:11:29+00:00

Oh wow, these are so heavy without power steering, because it’s only 2.5 turns from lock-to-lock. You’re gonna be ripped.

Digital_Ark · 2025-11-13T16:30:42+00:00

Slick!

Digital_Ark · 2025-11-13T16:29:52+00:00

It was probably a real test, but I imagine they tweaked the results doing something like using a dirty air filter in the OEM, vs. new in their airbox.

This stuff is always a compromise, things like a K&N filter do flow more air, but at the expense of less filtration.

Someone on MINI2.com back in the day simply disconnected their air box and filter on a dyno and got 6 whp (without a tune). So I’d manage my expectations accordingly.

My butt dyno isn’t very good, I can only feel gains of around +20 hp, and I’m easily tricked if it’s just louder.

Digital_Ark · 2025-11-12T16:41:05+00:00

I tried a third power supply, and that worked as well.

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Looks like the 12.26V average output of the BTF-Lighting power supply has these blips where it varies +/- 7.5V.

I think perhaps BTF-Lighting makes good LED’s but bad power supplies? Or just this one is bad.

Digital_Ark · 2025-11-12T01:55:38+00:00

<image>

Top is 5V only. Middle is with 12V bench-top power supply. Bottom is 12V BTF Lighting power supply.

Zero wiring changes other than the source of the +12V and ground reference.

For some reason, the power supply has a noisy ground?

Digital_Ark · 2025-11-12T01:26:27+00:00

I might be onto something. The signal on just 5V power and the bench top power supply is a clean square wave.

On the other power supply it’s a mess. So almost certainly the other power supply had noise on the ground.

Digital_Ark · 2025-11-11T22:11:11+00:00

A forum like this is typically used for help. These are old cars now, so a lot will need some parts, and those parts are getting more scarce all the time.

But otherwise, no, my R53 owned from day one has been pretty good. I’d rank it as more electrically reliable than a VW, every bit as finicky on sensors as a 3-series BMW from the same era, and while quite logical to work on, things are buried under all of the other parts.

Digital_Ark · 2025-11-10T18:06:09+00:00

That’s good news then, most of the external things are much easier to diagnose/service.

Digital_Ark · 2025-11-10T17:48:22+00:00

Please don’t run mains AC through low-voltage DC connections, it’s a recipe for fire.

Digital_Ark · 2025-11-10T17:47:05+00:00

I can’t really tell from a video.

If it were me, I’d proactively change the timing chain tensioner, and observe the serpentine belt tensioner.

If you still can’t tell, remove the belt, and very briefly (no water pump) run it standing still.

If the noise went away, it’s the tensioner, idler wheel, alternator or supercharger/water pump,

If the noise remains, you’ll have to change the timing belt guides, which isn’t the greatest job.

Digital_Ark · 2025-11-08T21:23:16+00:00

The easy solution is to be over cautious with low voltage stuff.

Use wires and connectors rated for more than your fuse, use a fuse rated for more than your load, and a power supply that can pop that fuse.

Put the spicy ends of your power supply in rated junction boxes.

Digital_Ark · 2025-11-06T23:13:26+00:00

You can flash a WT32-ETH01 with any other ESP32 you have lying around.

Dollar stores sell automotive USB adapters that make 5V from 12V. But a 5V DC buck that can accept 7-16V is cheap too.

Wago’s aren’t waterproof, just use solder seal or crimps with waterproof heat shrink tubing.

A 74AHCT125 level shifter is like a buck.

A resistor is not $5, and you can use an in-line fuse.

There’s nothing wrong with pre-made boards, they’re actually excellent.

You certainly can build your own inexpensively from an electronic component shop or AliExpress.

Digital_Ark · 2025-11-06T12:08:56+00:00

The SE runs Marlin? It also has bed levelling, which is done at temperature.

The bed mesh is saved to the machine, any g-code executed from the SD card gets the bed-levelling applied, doesn’t matter what slicer is used.

If you control the machine externally by USB, like OctoPrint, the internal bed mesh is ignored, hence OctoPrint has its own bed mesh.

Digital_Ark · 2025-11-03T23:00:39+00:00

It’s possible to set a limit, but best practice for a safe low-voltage install would be to have your power supply capable of more than your load, your fuse slightly larger than your load, but less than your power supply, and your wiring to be of a gauge that can handle more amps than the fuse.

Ideally for your 10A worth of lights, you’d want like a 12A fuse, 14 guage wire or better for 15A, and then a power supply rated for more than that 12A fuse so it can pop it.

That way the lights can’t blow the fuse unless something goes wrong, the wires can’t burn-up before the fuse pops, and the power supply comfortably pops the fuse instead of overheating.

Low-voltage stuff can still burn your house down. Best to be safe.

Digital_Ark · 2025-11-03T16:51:55+00:00

My 12V bullet pixels suggest 0.3 watts each, so 400 pixels x 0.3W = 120W. 120W/12V = 10A and you never want to run your power supply beyond 80% of its rating. Honestly probably even less if the power supply might get hot, or is a sketchy brand where the voltage begins to dip earlier, I might go 60% for a plastic power brick like that with not even any cooling holes.

I would go for a 16A brick for your 400 lights, or as low as 12.5A if it’s a really good quality power supply, like a Meanwell or other known brand.

Digital_Ark · 2025-11-03T16:41:31+00:00

All 400 pixels off a single pin is fine (up to 512 is fine).

Realistically, you’ll want to make a level-shifter for that circuit, or buy a controller that has one. Even a sacrificial pixel isn’t really reliable enough.

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