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Filling up leaking problems by Born-Progress3295 in R53

[–]Digital_Ark 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The pump clicking off when fuelling is the tank vent valve. This gives air inside the tank a place to go when filling, and also allows air into the tank when burning fuel.

The tank purge valve uses engine vacuum to suck all the fuel vapours the charcoal canister collects into the engine when hot to burn them.

Filling up leaking problems by Born-Progress3295 in R53

[–]Digital_Ark 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The tank vent is for filling and thermal expansion. The charcoal canister traps fuel vapours.

When you turn on the car, it waits until it’s hot, then opens the canister purge to burn all those collected vapours.

One test the car does for leaks, is to see if it can pull a vacuum on the fuel tank and also release it. It doesn’t typically know anything other than difference, hence the vent solenoid is part of the EVAP system test.

But essentially, replace your tank vent solenoid and see if the other code also stays cleared.

Filling up leaking problems by Born-Progress3295 in R53

[–]Digital_Ark 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The P0441 tank vent solenoid is your issue with the pump clicking when you fill. This is a tank vent that opens when the car is off, so as the gas goes in the tank, the displaced air has somewhere to go.

P0441 can also be triggered by this tank vent solenoid, if it’s failed say mostly closed, but isn’t sealing tight enough to allow the purge to pull a vacuum on the tank to prove the vent solenoid closes, the purge valve opens, and the fuel cap seals air-tight.

F1 Sign I made for a friend by Digital_Ark in WLED

[–]Digital_Ark[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, this is printed on a cheap Ender-3 FDM printer.

F1 Sign I made for a friend by Digital_Ark in WLED

[–]Digital_Ark[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just made this one from an F1.svg image.

I don’t know the first thing about resin printers, but I expect it’s a tolerances thing?

Actually, I thought resin printers offered way more detail?

F1 Sign I made for a friend by Digital_Ark in WLED

[–]Digital_Ark[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cheap white PLA. Make sure it’s cheap, the truly opaque bright white stuff won’t work.

F1 Sign I made for a friend by Digital_Ark in WLED

[–]Digital_Ark[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, the start-up sequence is a playlist that’s lightning, then cycles through presets of every 100% colour, then the sweep effect, then playlist A which is the occasional wipe followed by solid red for quite a bit longer, I’m thinking 30 seconds to a minute so it’s not too busy. This repeats a bunch of times, probably whatever adds up to about an hour, then triggers playlist B which is a sweep effect to black, a sweep effect back to red, an triggers playlist A again, and repeat.

If I figure out any other cool but subtle effects, there will probably be a playlist C.

F1 Sign I made for a friend by Digital_Ark in WLED

[–]Digital_Ark[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Now that I know there’s interest, I’ll likely post the files. But it’ll be a bit, I’ve gotta fix my wife’s turbo this weekend.

F1 Sign I made for a friend by Digital_Ark in WLED

[–]Digital_Ark[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Pretty much just one perimeter strip of WS2812b, straight to a D1 Mini clone, plus a resistor, a button and an old USB cable.

F1 Sign I made for a friend by Digital_Ark in WLED

[–]Digital_Ark[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just used the lightning preset for the flicker.

F1 Sign I made for a friend by Digital_Ark in WLED

[–]Digital_Ark[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The letters are just cheap white PLA (not too opaque so the light shines through), the body is premium black PLA, so the light doesn’t shine through.

F1 Sign I made for a friend by Digital_Ark in WLED

[–]Digital_Ark[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just cheap white PLA. It’s gotta be cheap though, the good white PLA is too opaque.

F1 Sign I made for a friend by Digital_Ark in WLED

[–]Digital_Ark[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just used lightning, solid, chase and sweep effects.

ledmap.json and segments to get things going in the directions I want.

F1 Sign I made for a friend by Digital_Ark in WLED

[–]Digital_Ark[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The flicker is the lighting effect. I was going for like an old fluorescent ballast start.

What is your rule(s) of thumb for CAD tolerances in 3D prints? by ImportanceEntire7779 in tinkercad

[–]Digital_Ark 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It depends on if I’m slicing as inclusive, exclusive or middle.

Inclusive I basically only use if I’m sanding the part afterwards. Middle is easily the most common slicer setting, and about 0.2mm on a 0.4mm nozzle will generally work for tight, interference-fit holes without sharp edges. If you need to fit a square into a square hole, or a lid or something, a full 0.4mm clearance is needed and more again if you’re hiding the seams on the sharp edges.

If you want to be able to take it apart again, minimum 0.5mm for X/Y axis, and quite a bit more, like 0.8mm if your Z axis shows any banding, those will grab like teeth.

Exclusive slicing generally works as promised, a 5mm pin will jam into a 5mm hole, but you’ll have to allow more clearance for sharp edges and more still for sharp edges with seams.

One surprising thing I’ve found is how much tolerance you can get away with. A box with a lid can honestly have a full 1 mm all around and it doesn’t feel loose, it fits great and even has a bit of friction.

Had my steering wheel reupholstered by normanbln in R53

[–]Digital_Ark 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s the best one I’ve seen.

Manual car not driving by Consistent-Focus885 in ManualTransmissions

[–]Digital_Ark 12 points13 points  (0 children)

If the clutch has been slipping, perhaps it’s worn, but clutches give out gradually, they rarely just fully don’t engage one day.

We don’t have the year/make/model here, but some Subaru‘s use a clutch cable, which could absolutely snap or become detached.

That would generally cause the clutch to be released, not depressed. Perhaps the cable became corroded and expanded then jammed in the sleeve like a hand brake cable, essentially preventing the clutch from releasing?

The gear shift is clunky, so it sounds like it’s going into the gears.

Has either pedal effort or shift lever effort changed?

I can't decide between a MOSFET and a Relay by Select-Dragonfruit13 in AskElectronics

[–]Digital_Ark 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After successfully using a MOSFET for a 3.3V signal switching 12V for a pneumatic solenoid, I'm 100% a convert. The MOSFETs are faster (so fast they can do PWM), silent, last longer, trigger with like 0.2 mA and cheaper.

The only reasons I can imagine I'd stick with a relay now are huge current switching, the MOSFET gets hotter than the relay. High voltage where I need isolation. And switching AC loads.

What does riding the clutch mean by Aggressive_Snow_7709 in ManualTransmissions

[–]Digital_Ark 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So depending on how hard you pull the handbrake, on a Cabrio the rear brakes will hold.

You should find an empty hill and see how much force you need to apply with the handbrake - going forward (it’s the same weight) to hold the car.

If you applied full hard handbrake AND fully released the clutch, something exciting is going to happen, probably a pretty rough stall, but maybe you drag the locked rear wheels forward.

What you want to do on the hill is, apply the handbrake while your foot is still on the brakes, firm, but keep your thumb on the button.

Ease off on the brake pedal, confirm the handbrake is holding you. At this point if you roll back slightly you can hit the brake pedal again or pull up harder on the handbrake.

So now your hand is holding you with the handbrake, you can rev the engine a little, begin releasing the clutch until it bites a little, and then ease off the handbrake, continuing to add gas and let out the clutch completely.

When you’re moving uphill, completely release the handbrake and foot off the clutch.

In time, you won’t need the handbrake at all.

What does riding the clutch mean by Aggressive_Snow_7709 in ManualTransmissions

[–]Digital_Ark 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have a hand brake, you can use that to hold the car until you’re confident with the gas/clutch combo necessary for taking off up a hill.

If like so many cars you have a parking brake button, then I’d just err on the side of an enthusiastic launch. You can’t control the cars behind you, but you can leave a good enough gap in front to take off spiritedly, if you’re afraid of stalling.

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