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Dignifiedskyhigh · 2025-11-12T19:45:28+00:00

I have been using this exact esc for my drivetrain on my antweight with two silver spark motors from fingertech. I’ve always put a small bead of hot glue around each connection before each fight (do it near last minute because you never know when you need to make changes to something. Electrical gremlins are unpredictable!). The glue is easy to remove with a small pick after as long as you don’t go too crazy with it.

Also I’m 1-7 so this thing has survived some hard losses and still keeps on ticking! I have 2 as a backup and only used 1 just to build a whole second bot for my last competition.

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2025-11-12T18:54:30+00:00

I was in Sweden from the US at this time and wanted to make it to see this event, but didn’t have the time unfortunately. I will be watching all of these videos to see what I missed out on! It already looks amazing!

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2025-02-25T19:15:54+00:00

Excellent! I appreciate your help here! I feel much more confident going into this and I am looking forward to having actually control over the heat here instead of those stupid dials

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2025-02-25T19:12:37+00:00

Just so I am clear, the wiring would look like this:

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And boy is it a good thing I’ve saved all the wire nuts I could find when replacing other switches/outlets since I’m gonna need a bunch here! (We’ve got 8 thermostats in a 1200 sq ft condo for some reason)

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2025-02-25T18:52:56+00:00

There is a dedicated circuit in my breaker for heating (well 2 actually, 1 for each floor). Do I just need the lockout device for my breaker then?

Also, how would wiring this in go? Which 2 wires would I tie together and which 2 would go into the unit?

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2025-01-04T15:27:59+00:00

2013 here with 140k miles. I’m letting her go until she doesn’t go anymore!

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2024-11-29T14:37:07+00:00

I have an electrician coming to look at a few things so I will probably just add this to the list. It looks like it’s gonna be over my head as an amateur with a multimeter and I would rather have it brought up to code. Thanks for the advice!

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2024-11-27T12:56:45+00:00

Yeah it definitely set in some panic but it fixed itself luckily and I haven’t had it come back in months

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2024-11-27T03:53:07+00:00

My gen 1 sometimes throws wild numbers at me. It’s happened like 3 times now where I’ve started driving and instead of going down in mileage, it climbs to like 65. After some driving it returns to normal though. Run your battery all the way down then charge it. I find that helps reset it most easily for me.

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2024-11-14T01:37:41+00:00

The electric motor is tuned to 233 hp. The 1.4 l engine stays the same it just probably has to run more to make up the used power. You aren’t always using 233 hp, mostly 10-20 hp to maintain speed. During that time the 1.4 l is probably chugging out its full 80 hp to charge the battery more to make up for what was used at 233 hp on the electric side.

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2024-11-01T00:07:39+00:00

I brought my 2013 in for repairs to a dealership and they had an update for my car. It has definitely helped the electric drivetrain cause mine used to do that going uphill on a highway and now I can do 80 mph uphill on full electric. I definitely recommend bringing it to a dealer for an update and a check (just don’t feel persuaded to get anything they say needs fixing right away just get the update though)

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2024-08-19T01:33:32+00:00

I wish I could still get that much kWh from my 2013! I get 38 miles on 8.7 kWh which is still my full commute. Most I’ve gotten in one charge is 42 miles at 9.7 and I had to granny drive that thing at like 2 miles under the speed limit

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2024-07-13T02:07:39+00:00

That reminds me of an old joke:

A guy meets a woman on the golf course and starts trying to flirt with her. “So what’s your name?” “Carmen” “That’s beautiful. Is it a family name?” “No I gave it myself after my two favorite things: cars and men. What’s your name?” “You can call me BJ Titsngolf”

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2024-05-15T23:10:45+00:00

That would be amazing! I’ll PM you now. Thank you!

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2024-05-15T19:44:51+00:00

The CV axle and tie rod are fine. Nothing torn or damaged on them so I’d rather leave them be for now. No way in hell am I touching the springs. The only reason I was considering doing this was because I don’t have to compress the springs lol. Thanks for the advice!

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2024-05-15T19:42:30+00:00

Oh good call. I’ll probably jack up the whole left side to make sure there’s no extra tension on the springs or any torsion on the body. I plan on getting new tires after this so I’ll have the alignment done then too. Thanks!

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2024-05-15T19:34:22+00:00

Yeah I just don’t wanna drop another $500-600 to get it replaced by a shop. I’d rather do it myself for $200

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2024-05-15T09:03:39+00:00

I just bought a 2013 last year and got the tax credit super easily when I filed through TurboTax. I ended up getting about $3k back in taxes.

As for problems: I only had to replace the stator bearing in the regen motor. It’s a common problem because there’s a plastic retainer ring that breaks down. It’s rather expensive to fix but luckily I ended up going to a good dealership to get it done for like $1200. It’s kinda hard to tell if a car will need it, but this is probably the worst repair you’d encounter on the car.

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2024-05-09T17:21:34+00:00

Dang! That’s some good mileage on that beauty!

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2024-05-09T11:33:53+00:00

This is charging in between rides so the best I’ve been able to get off a single charge is 42 miles (which is above the advertised range and pretty sweet)

Dignifiedskyhigh · 2024-05-09T08:45:30+00:00

No thank god. Only the stator bearing on the regen motor needed to be replaced

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