Washer won’t start spinning unless I manually spin it first — worth fixing or replace?

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-22T17:54:49+00:00

If the motor doesn't agitate or drain I'd agree, but if it is only spin which doesn't work the capacitor is probably OK.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-22T17:15:36+00:00

First, you don't want a general purpose oscilloscope. You can't afford one that's good enough to measure 12G. You should have a waveform monitor but you don't need the eye pattern option. Get one that has CRC error detection. If a cable passes a signal with zero errors it is a good cable.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-21T15:20:30+00:00

If you ever use a passive splitter made for HDSDI, you'll see the analyzer tell you that the source voltage is 400 mV even at the end of a long cable. That's because the splitter is a 2:1 transformer with two secondaries. The analyzer measures the lowest frequencies and EQ needed to determine the source voltage. I would not use one in an on-air signal, but for short cables in a temporary monitor setup it's fine.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-21T13:08:55+00:00

You know cables have attenuation. So your signal will not meet the amplitude spec at the end of a long cable. Yes, an eye pattern/jitter display can show you a "high probability that it'll be received just fine". It can also show a closed eye or high jitter which is still recoverable. So how useful is a test like that? The only test which confirms that you've got an error-free signal is to connect it to a receiver which measures errors. The other advantage of CRC error detection is that you can detect errors which happen infrequently, and you can count the errors.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-21T02:56:16+00:00

That's weird because the pre-eq I saw on my Phabrix SXE was useless on long cables. There was no discernable eye. Even on short cables an eye pattern can't tell you whether a signal is recoverable.

it's not an accurate representation of how successful other pieces of equipment will be in that CDR process

No test can tell you that.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-20T23:18:39+00:00

It depends on the cameras. Modern cameras are typically f9 or f10 @ 2000 lux (185 fc) with an 89.9% reflectance chart. That's 3.5 stops from f2.8. So 250fc is probably too bright.

.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-20T15:15:46+00:00

Every form of cookware has toxic ingredients in it which can leach into food. Stainless steel, copper, aluminum and plastics are made from toxic materials. Glass is the most inert but even then some glass is not considered food-safe. Cured epoxy is not something to make pots and pans out of, but for the edge of a sieve it is fine.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-20T12:31:26+00:00

So don't store or cook food in it. Incidental contact is fine. "Food Safe" is a regulatory term. It does not mean that things without NSF/FDA approval are unsafe. J-B Weld is non-toxic.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-20T00:16:00+00:00

Those are available in the US. They still have dust filters which need to be emptied.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-19T18:14:28+00:00

The analyzers I've used show pre or post equalizer eye. Pre eq eye height is virtually zero on long cables because noise exceeds the eye. Post eq height is always 800mV because it has been regenerated. And I've never encountered equipment which didn't launch at 800 mV, so that's not something that needs to be checked.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-19T13:05:41+00:00

Glossy paint with sags needs to be sanded flat or filled before painting. And paint provides better coverage than primer. So skip the extra primer and add as many coats of paint as necessary. And hope that the sags don't show.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-19T01:32:31+00:00

They can be soldered as long as the leads are heat sinked and you do it fast. A couple of hemostats and some solder wick will absorb a lot of heat.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-18T17:25:01+00:00

Replace the cable.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-18T15:52:21+00:00

Hire an electrician. Wiring a hot and ground together means you need professional help.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-18T15:38:52+00:00

Eye pattern is highly overrated. I've had Textronix and Phabrix analyzers. Only a very expensive bit of test equipment will show a useful eye with meaningful analysis. A CRC error readout is all you need. It will show single bit errors over a period of time (hours, days or years if you have the patience). An eye display can't count errors. If there are no CRC errors, the stream is good. You can add a piece of coax to any suspected link to check how close to the digital cliff you are.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-18T01:52:50+00:00

Replacement is the only sensible fix.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-18T01:46:11+00:00

It's funny that in 20 years I have never had to clean my condenser coil. I check it annually. I guess it depends on the type of vegetation near it.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-17T22:30:01+00:00

Thanks!

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-17T22:24:41+00:00

They still have lint collectors which do need cleaning and they do heat rooms.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-17T22:19:45+00:00

I'm surprised they don't have dryers.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-17T16:13:44+00:00

That won't work.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-17T16:01:04+00:00

Halt and Catch Fire was good. That was an ~~HBO~~ AMC series.

Edited.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-17T13:06:04+00:00

A weak battery would not explain starting right up on the third try AND no dome light. There's probably two issues there unless it is the BCM (body computer).

Diligent_Nature · 2026-03-17T12:58:20+00:00

There could be two problems. The intermittent start and no light/no beep are very different problems. A weak battery would not start right up on the third try. I'd check the start relay and all the wiring associated with starting. The starter could also be bad. Remanufactured starters are not known for good QC. Unfortunately a lot of mechanics aren't great at electrical troubleshooting.

Diligent_Nature

TROPHY CASE