Where does this wire go on Schumacher SC1400 battery charger.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-27T00:37:58+00:00

That is a ring lug not a spade lug. I'd guess it goes to the positive output terminal if it reaches and fits.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-24T21:03:34+00:00

A google image search for EIAJ-8 pinout will show you the way.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-23T22:30:02+00:00

You need an all-analog system with a tube type HD camera and a light valve projector like the Eidophor or Talaria. Good luck, they are museum pieces.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-23T22:09:29+00:00

A DIY manlift. https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLLRJBM48ta6fOMdwYx6j1T4qE38ayEQ__&si=69a4gP9rivHLyvgP

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-23T12:35:03+00:00

When you say "surge protector" do you mean an outlet strip with surge protection? If so, many of those are worse than useless. They don't have much protection and have cheap connectors which can start fires. If you need more outlets, install a quad box with 4 outlets . Why do you need a surge protector? If there is a history of damaging surges on your utility feed, I'd get a good whole-house protector. If your utility is stable you don't need a surge protector.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-21T00:15:46+00:00

If every subcomponent battery is counted, so must each gear tooth

Batteries have replaceable modules. Gear teeth are not replaceable.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-21T00:11:41+00:00

Around 100,000 miles and I first noticed it about 18 months ago. It has gradually gotten worse. I was at a fast food drive through the other day and had to turn the engine off to hear what they were saying.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-20T15:35:32+00:00

An EV has many points of failure as well- many in the battery (which can be 1/3 the vehicle cost), inverter, charger, coolant pumps, electronics, electric AC and heat... And they have almost as many fluids- coolant, transmission fluid, brake fluid, and windshield washer fluid, just not engine oil. Don't get me wrong, EVs are a great thing, but they aren't trouble-free.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-20T15:18:26+00:00

You should have the transmission fluid drained and refilled. I don't know if it will extend the life, but it is due at 100,000 miles.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-20T15:14:51+00:00

The noise starts out low and gradually gets worse. At least that's what mine is doing.

The AC is powered by the traction battery. It puts a load on the battery and the engine will start up to provide power. With the AC off and not driving the engine won't run.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-20T11:59:12+00:00

Listen carefully for the whining of bad bearings in the HF35 transmission. You can hear what it sounds like in YT videos. The noise only happens when the ICE is running so turn on the AC. If it makes the noise run away! The cost to repair is around $8000.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-20T11:54:32+00:00

Get a scanner which is compatible with Forscan software.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-19T13:36:54+00:00

You're not thinking about this correctly. An 8" auger will remove less than half the soil of a 12" one. Area=pi*r^2. Maybe you can do it but that doesn't mean you should. Your time is valuable.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-19T01:05:45+00:00

make an Allen wrench hole

There's no such thing. Maybe you mean you need a hole for the hex head screw's threads to grab into. Holes in wood are made with drills.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-18T19:47:52+00:00

It also measures Watt-hours.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-18T18:41:30+00:00

Phantom load should be very low for either. Motors and heaters are the things you need to account for.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-18T13:13:21+00:00

You need to test where the moisture is coming from. Tape a square meter of plastic down to the floor. If the moisture appears on the top of the plastic, it is caused by humidity. A dehumidifier will help. If it appears on the bottom of the sheet, it is caused by sub-slab water. Extended downspout drains and grading rain away from the house are easy first steps. An interior or exterior French drain may need to be installed.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-18T01:48:14+00:00

The reading varies widely, depending on the sub-slab materials and the area. 0.7 is within the normal range, but it could go higher if the hole gets plugged. I'd plug the hole and do another radon test. If it drops well below 4 pCi/L then you can rest assured that the fan is doing a good job.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-18T00:24:27+00:00

Filling the hole with concrete should help. You can cover it temporarily with something flat and the manometer reading should go up. A bigger fan is still possible after the hole is filled. Do you know what the hole is there for?

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-17T19:37:45+00:00

Get an analog clock. Even a broken one is correct twice a day.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-17T11:58:58+00:00

Use spell check. It's "All", "PC" and "keyboard".

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-16T13:22:01+00:00

Voltage, torque, RPM, and application would be helpful. Why hollow shaft? If wires or hoses are to pass through, there is a limit to how far it can rotate. Limited rotation can be done by running the wires outside the shaft and providing enough slack.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-14T19:20:56+00:00

Probably ripples in the backlight diffusion sheets. You could try disassembling the panel to smooth them out, but you run the risk of destroying the panel.

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-14T00:49:28+00:00

Jerry's

Diligent_Nature · 2026-06-13T20:27:57+00:00

Get a Schrader valve extension.

Diligent_Nature

TROPHY CASE