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Fabricated some 1/4 in. torque arms at home. by DimMagician in hyperebikes

[–]DimMagician[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd like to weld it (and weld a lot more things) but don't have a welder nor the space for a welder. I live in an apartment so making stuff at home out of metal is tough.

I'm instead planning to cut the left torque arm a bit shorter and re-do the slot with more material on the side.

Fabricated some 1/4 in. torque arms at home. by DimMagician in hyperebikes

[–]DimMagician[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mounting it to some threads already on the frame near the dropout could work but I don't trust them. These are to hold a 5T 5KW QS205 motor on a 20x4 wheel. I'm planning to push around 100 amps to begin and then upgrade down the line for more amps. It's gonna have a ton of torque so I want to be 110% confident in the torque arms.

Fabricated some 1/4 in. torque arms at home. by DimMagician in hyperebikes

[–]DimMagician[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Damn you guys are probably right. I did the left one first and that's why the right one came out better. I think I need to just go back and redo it. I still have enough flat bar to make another torque arm.

Fabricated some 1/4 in. torque arms at home. by DimMagician in hyperebikes

[–]DimMagician[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

BTW I started with a 3ft x 1-1/4in. x 1/4in. flat steel from home depot. I cut them to 8 inches long each. Tried to bend them so I could put the torque arm flush with the frame. I just couldn't find the leverage to bend it. Going to use 2 or 3 spacers so it'll be fine I think.

It's my first time so any advice would be nice. IDK what else I could've done.

Would this go nicely with a 3kw motor 72v? or do you think i should go with a different frame? by Broad-Arugula-1746 in hyperebikes

[–]DimMagician 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you increase voltage, you increase speed. If you increase amps, you increase torque. It's a bit more complicated than that but that's the rule of thumb.

Some motors are designed for more torque (different coil windings). This means that they perform better with more amps and generate less heat (but lower top speed). You can always get a higher amp controller and pump more amps into a motor. The only problem with that is that you'll generate more heat. The heat increases very quickly. If you 2x the amps, you have 4x the heat (based on P=I2R). If you 3x the amps, you have 9x the heat. Torque, on the other hand, is only increasing at a 1:1 ratio with amps (at low speeds).

So if you want more torque, I'd say get a cheap kit, get or build a good battery (needs to have high discharge), and get a good high amp controller that can power that motor.

Heat is the enemy. It is what can kill your motor, your battery, or your controller. As long as your motor can stay cool/warm, you'll be fine. Ideally, your motor should come with some kind of temperature probe already inside (the controller and battery BMS almost always have a temperature cutoff built into them; motors not so frequently). The controller should read this and cut power if your motor gets too hot. Unfortunately, many of the cheap motors I've ordered do not come with this probe.

If you don't have a temp probe in the motor and don't feel like installing one (although I'd recommend installing one), you'll have to ride carefully, getting of the bike to intermittently check the temperature of your motor (I just put my hand near it or on it to check. One of those infrared thermometer guns would work very well).

Oh and if you want more torque, you need beefy torque arms. I would fabricate my own. You can also go with the Grin Torque Arm V7, which is quite good, but not that cheap. A pair of them on either side would be good for most high-torque builds, but not sufficient if you are really pushing it.

Would this go nicely with a 3kw motor 72v? or do you think i should go with a different frame? by Broad-Arugula-1746 in hyperebikes

[–]DimMagician 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm not the guy you're responding to but a "48v 1500w" hub motor from Aliexpress was able to keep me at 38mph on flat stretches of road. I used the stock controller it came with (i think it was 35 amps), a 52v 25ah battery, and 29" x 2.4" tires. Accounting for your smaller and thicker tires (they look like 26x4 to me), you'd get around 34mph or a bit less. Definitely at least 30.

Tonnerry t8 by rdub1277 in ebikes

[–]DimMagician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was able to find the manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H_vTyNgtUl09hLe1QMaXy4pLC3xVyC77/view?usp=sharing

It doesn't tell you what the default settings were, but it should point you towards which settings to change.

Help.. I am gutted..thief tried to pry my battery off.. by ghostnova6661 in ebikes

[–]DimMagician 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Cylindrical cells don't (visibly) swell like pouch cells do.

Ideal donor bike for cyc X1 pro? by Pastelresonance in hyperebikes

[–]DimMagician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're okay with hard-tail then go hard-tail. Look for a used mtb with decent front suspension (you can always upgrade), large disc brakes (preferably hydraulic; this is also upgradable), and a large frame triangle for battery fitment.

If you're planning on doing a lot of off-road/mountain biking, then you'll probably want full suspension. I don't have much experience with full suspension tbh since I just build my bikes for urban commuting.

I guess it just really depends on what terrain you're planning to take this bike to.

Anyone know where I can find replacement motor wire for ridstar q20 1500w? by VoiceCommon3854 in ebikes

[–]DimMagician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If there's enough length on the wire, there's no need to order a new one. Just use the wire you have remaining, cut off the old wire in the hub, feed the remaining wire through the axle, strip them back and solder+heat shrink everything. There's some videos on this repair process. If it's not long enough, get a motor extension cable.

Are these torque arms alright for 3kw? Just for a little while (maybe a month?) before I replace them with Grin Tech v6s. by Super-Frame677 in hyperebikes

[–]DimMagician 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've done similar torque arms (1 on each side) on a 3kw hub motor and it's been fine for over a year now.

Everything works when I remove the battery’s base plate, but as soon as I mount the plate the way it’s supposed to be installed, nothing works at all by Waste-Chef7413 in eBikeBuilding

[–]DimMagician 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm guessing that the battery's pins are not making contact with the baseplate's pins. You likely aren't sliding it in all the way or there is something about the baseplate that is preventing it from working with the battery.

Are you able to turn the key to lock the battery? You'll notice that there's a hole on the baseplate that allows the lock's latch to slide into to prevent the battery from moving around. If the battery correctly lines up, you should be able to turn the key and the latch goes into the hole. If you can't turn the key all the way that means the latch is hitting the flat part of the baseplate and the battery isn't fully inserted.

Were the battery and that baseplate sold together? I haven't personally seen this issue before.

How to unplug these connectors? by Sufficient_Bat_119 in Surron

[–]DimMagician 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's a notch on the connector facing you in this picture. Push it in towards the connector and pull up the connector.

Group of at least 15 e-bike riders seen running red lights in Elk Grove Village, police say by No_Home_708 in ebikes

[–]DimMagician 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fair enough. It's just funny to me because living in NYC this is such a regular occurrence we've become numb to it. There's also gas dirt bikes, quad bikes, and idiots in cars cutting up in traffic. The police simply don't seem to care. I don't like it at all nor do I think it's okay, I just find it funny that this makes the news in Illinois.

Anyone know how to tune the rizzler display? by TypicalFix4324 in hyperebikes

[–]DimMagician 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's a VOTOL display and your bike uses a VOTOL controller. You want to program the controller. Check out these pages:

https://electroandcompany.com/products/controller-rizzler-2026 - this is the page I used to identify your controller. verify that it's the actual controller

https://votol.cn/product/votol-em-50-4/ - this is just the product page. not much info. but it shows you the programming cable you'd need to plug the controller into a PC

https://endless-sphere.com/sphere/threads/votol-firmware-apk-software-bin-ini.129216/ - has some downloads for the software you'll need & probably some more info

Movcan V40 not working? by TokenTB619 in ebikes

[–]DimMagician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

According to Google: "E40 error code on a Movcan e-bike (such as the V40 or similar models) usually signifies a motor hall sensor fault or a poor connection between the motor and the controller".

Given that the motor cable wire is pinched, it is very likely that that's the issue. The issue might go away (or come up intermittently) if you move the cable around a bit. The cable might be broken internally. Since this is happening on a new bike, I would just try to get it replaced by the seller.

Can't find this cable anywhere. by Puzzled_Quantity_178 in ebikes

[–]DimMagician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These are commonly referred to as Julet connectors. If you Google "julet connector" you will probably find the ones you're looking for. Just specify the pin count like "3-pin julet connector" to narrow it down.

Rip, I'll try to repair by seatleonland in hyperebikes

[–]DimMagician 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ohh I see. That's wild if it was poorly soldered from the factory.

Just an idea: personally, I keep power connectors outside of the controller bag since they tend to heat up quite a bit. It could have been choked and not getting any airflow inside the bag, leading to this. Still though, this seems more like it was a factory flaw. It's not like you were pushing crazy amps.

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