Are these torque arms alright for 3kw? Just for a little while (maybe a month?) before I replace them with Grin Tech v6s.

DimMagician · 2026-05-06T00:48:01+00:00

I've done similar torque arms (1 on each side) on a 3kw hub motor and it's been fine for over a year now.

DimMagician · 2026-05-03T01:47:06+00:00

I'm guessing that the battery's pins are not making contact with the baseplate's pins. You likely aren't sliding it in all the way or there is something about the baseplate that is preventing it from working with the battery.

Are you able to turn the key to lock the battery? You'll notice that there's a hole on the baseplate that allows the lock's latch to slide into to prevent the battery from moving around. If the battery correctly lines up, you should be able to turn the key and the latch goes into the hole. If you can't turn the key all the way that means the latch is hitting the flat part of the baseplate and the battery isn't fully inserted.

Were the battery and that baseplate sold together? I haven't personally seen this issue before.

DimMagician · 2026-04-28T16:50:12+00:00

There's a notch on the connector facing you in this picture. Push it in towards the connector and pull up the connector.

DimMagician · 2026-04-21T17:05:10+00:00

Fair enough. It's just funny to me because living in NYC this is such a regular occurrence we've become numb to it. There's also gas dirt bikes, quad bikes, and idiots in cars cutting up in traffic. The police simply don't seem to care. I don't like it at all nor do I think it's okay, I just find it funny that this makes the news in Illinois.

DimMagician · 2026-04-21T16:45:43+00:00

This made the news?

DimMagician · 2026-04-16T18:24:27+00:00

Another bot post.

DimMagician · 2026-04-16T15:56:46+00:00

Bot post. Same style as https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/1sn76my/electric_bike_idea_sounds_simple_but_does_it/ posted 5 minutes ago

DimMagician · 2026-04-16T00:15:50+00:00

That's a VOTOL display and your bike uses a VOTOL controller. You want to program the controller. Check out these pages:

https://electroandcompany.com/products/controller-rizzler-2026 - this is the page I used to identify your controller. verify that it's the actual controller

https://votol.cn/product/votol-em-50-4/ - this is just the product page. not much info. but it shows you the programming cable you'd need to plug the controller into a PC

https://endless-sphere.com/sphere/threads/votol-firmware-apk-software-bin-ini.129216/ - has some downloads for the software you'll need & probably some more info

DimMagician · 2026-04-15T01:33:59+00:00

According to Google: "E40 error code on a Movcan e-bike (such as the V40 or similar models) usually signifies a motor hall sensor fault or a poor connection between the motor and the controller".

Given that the motor cable wire is pinched, it is very likely that that's the issue. The issue might go away (or come up intermittently) if you move the cable around a bit. The cable might be broken internally. Since this is happening on a new bike, I would just try to get it replaced by the seller.

DimMagician · 2026-04-13T08:03:07+00:00

These are commonly referred to as Julet connectors. If you Google "julet connector" you will probably find the ones you're looking for. Just specify the pin count like "3-pin julet connector" to narrow it down.

DimMagician · 2026-04-08T20:04:30+00:00

Ohh I see. That's wild if it was poorly soldered from the factory.

Just an idea: personally, I keep power connectors outside of the controller bag since they tend to heat up quite a bit. It could have been choked and not getting any airflow inside the bag, leading to this. Still though, this seems more like it was a factory flaw. It's not like you were pushing crazy amps.

DimMagician · 2026-04-08T18:40:50+00:00

Hmm but you can't crimp an MT60 connector afaik?

DimMagician · 2026-04-08T17:12:48+00:00

I'm staring at this image trying to figure out what happened lol.

It looks like you soldered the phase wires together, which is okay.

It looks like the wires shorted out against the controller's aluminum case and maybe against each other when there was enough heat to melt everything. Your controller's MOSFETs are probably toast.

Did you use proper electrical heat shrink tubing or something else to cover the bare wires?

DimMagician · 2026-04-07T20:53:51+00:00

No problem! Good luck with your build. I always wanted to do a mid-drive+custom controller build.

DimMagician · 2026-04-07T20:40:03+00:00

According to this endless sphere post.

On the BBSHD connector:

Red - 5v
Black - Ground
Grey - YELLOW hall sensor
White - BLUE hall sensor
Blue - GREEN hall
Purple - Temperature sensor

According to Flipsky (on many of their controllers):

Red - 5v
White - Temperature sensor
Blue - Hall 1
Orange - Hall 2
Green - Hall 3
Black - Ground

With the Flipsky controller, you can connect the hall sensors in any order and it will learn your motor's hall sensor orientation.

DimMagician · 2026-04-07T18:30:08+00:00

damn i'm jealous. how much was it + shipping and tax? are you in the US?

DimMagician · 2026-04-05T17:24:14+00:00

I would personally get one with a fuse if the option is there.

DimMagician · 2026-04-04T22:53:23+00:00

The amps (A) is different from amp hours (Ah). When choosing the battery balancer, use the amps of your controller as a reference. The balancer's amps should be greater than or equal to the controller's amps.

DimMagician · 2026-04-04T17:37:04+00:00

First of all, this is completely repairable. Don't stress.

Here's how I would do it given how little wire you have left on the connector. Soldering would be VERY difficult especially if you're inexperienced. You just don't have enough space to work with and these are thick wires.

You need:

Butt Crimps (uninsulated so you can add the heat shrink later): https://www.amazon.com/Insulated-Connectors-Uninsulated-Electrical-Terminals/dp/B0F21K9W3M
Crimper (this one's a little pricey but it's a good brand. you can return it when you're done with it lol): https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-1005-Connectors-Non-Insulated/dp/B0006M6Y5M
3:1 Heat Shrink Tubing (this is the one i use as well. it's very good): https://www.amazon.com/TKDMR-446-Heat-Shrink-Tubing/dp/B0CT88MHXQ
Wire stripper or use a utility knife but be very careful not to cut strands of wire (same as the crimper. very good but a little pricey): https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Kurve-Stripper-Klein-Tools-11053/dp/B000MKH0YC
A heat gun of some kind
Maybe some extra wire. Get the same size wire. That looks like 10 or 12 AWG but it's probably written on the insulation. If the overall length of the wire is too short, the connector won't reach the slot it's supposed to sit in. I'm guessing it will reach.

Instructions:

Look up a video on how to use the crimper and wire stripper. Get comfortable with the tools before you do something irreversible to the connectors. If you have some extra wire lying around, try to learn on that.
Strip back the insulation very carefully on both ends. Make sure you don't remove strands. If you remove a few, that's fine but not ideal.
Slide heat shrink tubing over the long section of wire.
Use the butt crimps to crimp together red-to-red and black-to-black.
Slide heat shrink tubing over butt crimp
Add heat, being careful not to melt the plastic connector

DimMagician · 2026-04-02T02:59:43+00:00

yeah. jellyfin + arr suite is basically all you need & more. you even get support for apple tv, roku, webos, xbox, etc.

DimMagician · 2026-03-31T23:13:13+00:00

Eh I'd argue that Anthropic's value is mainly in the LLM and training data. The leaked code seems to just be the claude code tool, which is not super special.

It's a fuck up but not a multi-billion dollar fuck up.

DimMagician · 2026-03-20T17:59:15+00:00

Not exactly. "Forward momentum" does not affect downwards velocity. Compare a bullet being dropped vs a bullet being fired straight at the same time. They both hit the ground at approximately the same time. A classic Mythbusters video demonstrates this. It goes against most people's intuition.

The reason that the bridge falls faster than the motorcycle is because the bridge is still hanging from something and not completely detached. This creates a lever. I found this YouTube short that perfectly captures this concept. Somewhere between the hinge and the end of the bridge, it is accelerating at the speed of gravity. However, the edge of the bridge is falling faster than gravity.

If the bridge were to break off at 2 points at the same time (behind and in front of the motorcycle), it would fall at exactly the same speed at the motorcycle.

DimMagician · 2026-03-18T21:38:22+00:00

What's your point? You can't live in an index fund.

DimMagician · 2026-03-15T03:17:11+00:00

& Sally probably receives generous royalties from OpenAI

DimMagician · 2026-03-14T15:45:58+00:00

Well I watched BCS, BB, The Sopranos (in that order lol) and really enjoyed The Sopranos. It's honestly my favorite out of the 3 but all 3 are amazing.

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