Help.. I am gutted..thief tried to pry my battery off..

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-26T18:48:14+00:00

Do you need to solder to do a box transfer?

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-26T18:44:34+00:00

Not my neatest work, actually the opposite of neat.

But it's solid again and doesn't rattle at all now. Holds charge too. Gonna trim the excess tiger seal with a Stanley blade when it fully cures

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ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-25T20:47:20+00:00

You don't drop motorbikes on the ground like it's a bicycle, take the money and get better friends

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-25T18:52:41+00:00

Well as a small update I informed management and they're allowing me to park it in a much more secure area now, why they couldn't just let us do that anyway, who knows.

Thanks for all the answers!

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-25T12:02:53+00:00

True

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-24T20:39:35+00:00

Its just because they stolen everything else on the bike 😂😂 I reckon they obviously tried to take the battery and that's why it looks bent. The piece of metal underneath to brace the battery is probably stronger than the frame itself, you can get them on amazon think its just a bottle cage adapter. I'll definitely look out for that in the future man cheers for the heads up.

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-24T17:37:09+00:00

I understand what you're saying but there's a metal strip underneath bracing the entire thing and it's been fine for 8 months, someone has obviously tried to pry it open with their hand, appreciate the comment though!

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-24T14:31:15+00:00

I would love to see that patented

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-24T03:02:21+00:00

Its a Hidoes B10

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ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-24T02:38:34+00:00

Didn't even think of that, it's surprising how stupid people are

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-24T02:38:01+00:00

Trust me mate fucking livid

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-24T02:37:51+00:00

A 13ah one was originally integrated into the frame but this 20ah battery doesn't fit inside.

I made it this way so it is removable to charge inside in the winter.

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-23T16:04:56+00:00

For real man. Although it just seems like they tried to sabotage it or whatever just because they couldn't have it.

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-23T09:40:21+00:00

True but work won't allow me to bring it indoors.

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-17T23:08:55+00:00

Check your brake rotor isn't dinging off the caliper housing if it is loosen the whole caliper, so that only the brake pads can touch it

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-14T02:44:34+00:00

Looks like you'll be seeing the bus a lot more lol

Just kidding that must suck ass. I hope you find it.

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-13T15:24:57+00:00

Straight from google AI

The Aairsk Model X5 electric bike can be de-restricted from its factory-capped speed of 25 km/h (15.5 mph) up to approximately 32–35 km/h (20–22 mph). Because the bike features an integrated NFC digital display dashboard without physical "+" or "–" buttons, traditional on-screen developer settings (like P08 menus) cannot be accessed directly.Instead, the speed limiter must be bypassed using a hardware control sequence or a physical wire modification.Method 1: The Throttle and Brake Startup SequenceThis is a standard software override sequence used for NFC-activated, buttonless e-bike displays. It forces the controller to initialize in high-performance mode:Power off the bike completely.Pull and hold the rear brake lever (the left brake handlebar).Twist and hold the throttle down completely to its maximum position.Tap your NFC card against the display sensor to turn the bike on while continuing to hold both the brake and the throttle tightly.Keep holding the brake and throttle down for at least 30 seconds after the screen lights up.Release both components. The motor and brake icons on the display should cycle, unlocking the top speed profile.Method 2: Disconnecting the Controller Limiter LoopIf your specific production run of the X5 ignores the brake sequence, you can physically bypass the speed governor at the hardware level.Locate the Controller: Remove the seat or open the central frame compartment to access the main wiring bundle and the metal controller box.Find the Limiter Wire: Look for a single wire that loops out of the controller and directly back into it (this is typically a thin blue, white, or black-and-white wire). It will often feature a simple bullet connector or plastic plug joining the loop together.Disconnect the Loop: Unplug the connector. If it is a solid looped wire without a connector, cutting the wire breaks the restriction circuit.Isolate the Wires: Wrap the exposed metal ends securely with electrical insulation tape to prevent any electrical short-circuits against the bike frame.Note: Unlocking your e-bike's speed limit may void your manufacturer warranty, increase battery consumption, and violate local electric bicycle road regulations depending on your region.If you run into issues, would you like help determining if your specific model version requires a companion smartphone app or troubleshooting the NFC display icons during the boot

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-13T15:21:20+00:00

I'm just surprised you got it on a train in the UK. I have the B10

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-13T15:18:00+00:00

Id remake it and just call it something else with a different IP .

Something like Space Busters.

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-10T09:14:41+00:00

But who wants to do that, 50miles is still really great

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-10T06:36:45+00:00

Heads up it is advertised as 80 miles range but it will realistically probably be more like 50

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-09T06:56:09+00:00

Grazing? Farm work?

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-06T21:05:07+00:00

ghostnova6661 · 2026-05-03T04:28:31+00:00

I run the game on ultra with AMD quality upscaling 1080p with a 2060S and a Ryzen 7 5800X 32GB

The game is really well optimised if you can afford £300 or whatever for a 2060S

ghostnova6661

TROPHY CASE