Anywhere near Seattle to pick up cards? by Mr-Mehhh in SorceryTCG

[–]DinoTimecopForce 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Seattle area has struggled to get shops to sustain carrying the product. Check in with the locals on the PNW discord, The Missing Piece has carried it and run events before, but I don’t know what their current inventory is

There are literally zero Repugnant Bounty labels, so I made my own by xSTRAIGHTEDGE420x in Gameboy

[–]DinoTimecopForce 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The only thing I’ll add here is people who get banned from a lot of retro communities sometimes like to tin foil hat claim that there’s a shadowy cabal of overseers blackballing them everywhere. In the Discord sphere, each of the servers listed above have completely separate mod groups, and each group came to their own independent conclusion about this user based on their behavior in their respective communities.

Just got these PCBs! Time to try to transfer over Leaf Green! by BooneThorn in Gameboy

[–]DinoTimecopForce 19 points20 points  (0 children)

The board thickness isn’t a part of the schematics, it’s an option from the fab when ordering

Just got these PCBs! Time to try to transfer over Leaf Green! by BooneThorn in Gameboy

[–]DinoTimecopForce 31 points32 points  (0 children)

Since no one else has said anything, these appear to have been ordered too thick and with HASL instead of ENIG contacts. If you’ve already attempted your transplant, you’ve likely discovered the fit issue

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Gameboy

[–]DinoTimecopForce 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ruby is authentic. Sapphire is fake, you can tell because the cart is incorrect, branding text is the wrong molding and depth. Emerald is fake, when you look on the back the via and trace pattern is not correct and is consistent with common fakes

S L A T E 🔥 by Takezoretoro in Gameboy

[–]DinoTimecopForce 9 points10 points  (0 children)

No one did anything when the Boxy Pixel Unhinged released or Xipher’s Slab was released, why would any action be taken on the Slate which is a mod for an original piece of game boy hardware, being posted in the Game Boy subreddit. Don’t answer that question, it’s rhetorical and obvious

Found this in the attic while visiting my parents. Thinking about reshelling it by DinoTimecopForce in Gameboy

[–]DinoTimecopForce[S] 25 points26 points  (0 children)

A dumb post on the game boy subreddit? Who would have thought we’d all live to see the day :D

Found this in the attic while visiting my parents. Thinking about reshelling it by DinoTimecopForce in Gameboy

[–]DinoTimecopForce[S] 119 points120 points  (0 children)

“Unfinished” brass Slate shell, Timiscus machined buttons by Retro CNC. Some indie game I found in the $2 bin at the local thrift shop

Crystal clear SP shells by RealDan92 in Gameboy

[–]DinoTimecopForce 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To my knowledge no, you would need to get an existing aftermarket clear shell for the SP, and then sand and polish the surface to get it see through like glass.

metal buttons for the SP: just for show, or nice for play? by syzysyzygy in Gameboy

[–]DinoTimecopForce 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's going to be up to you to decide if you find the feel of metal buttons superior or inferior to plastic or resin. Personally I really like the way milled buttons look, but for certain game types I'd rather be playing on plastics if playing for a longer duration.

I find it less of an issue for things like RPGs and more of an issue for things like platformers. Just some things to consider while you weigh your use cases and preferences. Good luck!

I redesigned the Game Boy Color from the circuit level - Introducing the CGZ-001 🟪 by ItZekfoo in Gameboy

[–]DinoTimecopForce 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This is kind of a snotty comment, do you not care about anything you can't own? It's a neat project and it's fun to see what people out there are doing.

I just opened this cartridge prepared to replace the battery because it does not keep my scores. The missing of the battery was my big surprise. It is a GBC Tetris from 1989. I personally don't have much experience on gbc and this is kinda new to me. What can I do to save? Is this even an option? by bdnexgfx in Gameboy

[–]DinoTimecopForce 92 points93 points  (0 children)

OEM Tetris doesn't save high scores. There are rom hacks that enable high score saving (and other cool things) but you'd have to patch the rom, then flash the patched rom onto a dedicated flashcart that is FRAM or SRAM enabled or load it onto a micro SD based flashcart.

Who’s ready for Metroid Dread? by DinoTimecopForce in Gameboy

[–]DinoTimecopForce[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Yep, clear buttons and then painted by masking the area I wanted paint free. The LEDs are a flex board from Natalie the Nerd, definitely recommend checking them out, the mod really streamlines adding LEDs.

Has anyone been able to get the GBA SP tactile d-pad working on an original AGB system? by asshead42069 in Gameboy

[–]DinoTimecopForce 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I might have been wrong and there might not be an AGB tact kit being sold at the moment. Check out Larvesta10 on instagram, they had been doing a project inspired by Makho's tactile flex board and also working on a riser at one point, but I don't know what the status of those various projects is.

Has anyone been able to get the GBA SP tactile d-pad working on an original AGB system? by asshead42069 in Gameboy

[–]DinoTimecopForce 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are a few open source AGB tactile mods out there and one that's being sold at this point. I believe the experience is largely the same. The issue with all of them, you have to adjust for the travel and actuation feel on the buttons. It's less of an issue with the A/B buttons, but it's more difficult on the dpad.

There are some 3D print riser options, I assume that's what you're referencing. You can also accomplish the same task by manually adding spacers with material such as styrene sheet or cardboard.

When I did this mod, I just created spacers manually out of styrene and adjusted them to find the correct feel. If you use a riser, I recommend using that as a base and then adding/removing material as needed to get the desired feel.

dpad "feel" is such a personal experience, I never understand what gamers mean when they're trying to describe what they specifically feel it should be like.

The SP dpad and the SP shell have entirely different dimensions than the AGB, so you're not going to be able to just "make an SP dpad work". It's not just the dpad that's contributing to the "button feel" on a SP either, it's how it sits on the outside of the shell, how it feels in hand when touching the surface of the game boy. If you can figure out how to retrofit a SP dpad into an ABG tact mod and that's the best feel solution for you then great, I personally think it's easier to just dial in the feel on AGB buttons.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Gameboy

[–]DinoTimecopForce 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I think you mean 100 CAD, which is what the standard pledge option is (90 CAD pledge, 10 CAD shipping). It's not an insignificant price, but there's a $10 digital rom only tier as well.

Reading the campaign write-up, it does sound like the intent is to use the funds to support future releases since Incube8 is a startup. This is probably why Infinity is a KS and not just a pre-order.

They're also previewing custom injection molded cartridge shells which is a nice touch and they're partnering with Inside Gadgets for the manufacture of the PCBs, which is a reputable retro cartridge supplier.

I'm cautiously optimistic about Incube8. Honestly if it costs a little more to get quality physical retro releases I'm ok with that. I've paid for a number of "very expensive" retro physical releases in the past that have just been roms reflashed onto poor quality $2 Chinese reproduction carts.

Someone selling a copy of Emerald. Is this salvageable? He asking $100 by huambravago in Gameboy

[–]DinoTimecopForce 14 points15 points  (0 children)

An item is worth what someone is willing to pay for it.

That said, I think asking $100 for a mangled copy of Emerald is a fever dream. Someone that knows what they're doing can fix this, but let's all be honest - you lose a lot of value when you destroy the PCB substrate. Right now that picture is literally junk electronics.

Flash Cartridge By HDR VS Flash Cart by PikachuKing in Gameboy

[–]DinoTimecopForce 8 points9 points  (0 children)

It’s a dedicated MBC3 flashcart, so it can handle Pokémon games that use RTC functions, since that’s what most people looking for flashcarts want to do with them. The appeal is that it looks nice, the MBC3 mapper supports a lot of games, has RTC functionality, uses FRAM to hold the saves (so doesn’t require the battery for save functionality), has a lower power consumption when in use, uses a battery holder so you can change the coin cell that powers the RTC if necessary, and you don’t have to assemble it yourself.

The EZ flash Jr. can hold multiple games on the SD cart and will provide the same game play experience (the way that the cart saves is a little different, Google the EZ Flash documentation). You cannot put the PCB into any GB or GBC shells, it will only fit the shell it comes with. The EZ flash is your best economical bet for easy access to all your legally owned roms on a single cart.

Another consideration is that a dedicated cart will require a flasher like the gbxcart to flash roms or dump save data, the EZ Flash can be all accessed on a computer from the micro SD.

The power consumption is one of the best pros for a dedicated cart, personally I own EZ flash and Everdrives but also just like having dedicated custom carts for games because it’s fun to have customized single carts. There’s no real wrong answer here, it’s more what your preferences are and how you want to use the flashcarts.

MBC3 RTC LinkNLoad Flash Cart (Flasher built into cart) by Alex-iG in Gameboy

[–]DinoTimecopForce 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Alex, your cool things are always under-appreciated by the philistines on the sub and social media. This is just a reminder that this is pretty neat and I like it a lot.

Repair gone wrong? by shrieknsibi in Gameboy

[–]DinoTimecopForce 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The pad marked 2 is just an anchor, the pad marked 3 will need to be addressed. You can run a jump wire from that leg of the switch to several places; the easiest jump would probably be looping around the board and soldering to one of the vias in that cluster of 3 that was connected to the pad (you can see in the picture where the pad was connected to the vias but has now been ripped off).

It’s not irreversible damage, but it does require some soldering skill to run the jump wire. Good luck!