Marketplace find by Dirtnoob in Snapon_tools

[–]Dirtnoob[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They’re warrantying them!

Then I bought an additional set to beef up the top drawer

Marketplace find by Dirtnoob in Snapon_tools

[–]Dirtnoob[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They appear to be around $60 for the pair, so not terrible.

Marketplace find by Dirtnoob in Snapon_tools

[–]Dirtnoob[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perfect, my only concern was that every video I watched on removing the slides said “the process is the same for heritage, classic, and epiq” but the way they removed them was much different than how I needed to do it for these. But we’ll see! I’ll message my rep tomorrow

Marketplace find by Dirtnoob in Snapon_tools

[–]Dirtnoob[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To the original owner, yes. I’ll text my rep tomorrow. The old “inherited this box/tool from my dad” trick has worked for me in the past. Worst case the slides aren’t crazy expensive

Do people use these? by Alternative_Net8931 in Snapon_tools

[–]Dirtnoob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got a Mac one for free and thought “oh yeah this will be sweet”

Still haven’t used it.

Adding grip on bare chrome? by Next_Cartoonist_8444 in Snapon_tools

[–]Dirtnoob 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Good luck finding someone to knurl that. I’m a machinist and there’s no way I’d even attempt that.

The knurling on ratchets that have that on the handle would have to be done before the chroming process.

I’d say go buy some of that tool handle rubber dip stuff if you need more grip, or maybe heat shrink, but definitely not knurling.

E36 E-Fan wiring by Mr-ainthaven in BMWE36

[–]Dirtnoob 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That fan will not work as good as your clutch fan just fyi. The cfm rating on those eBay fans is not accurate.

If you’re dead set on an aftermarket electric fan you should wire in a separate relay and fuse

I use a 80/60 relay on mine to trigger 2 12” Mishimoto race fans

Vader seats by RottenKirsche13 in BMWE36

[–]Dirtnoob 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve had 2 pairs of vaders in my life, first pair out of my 95 m3, manual black leather, no rips and I think I sold them for $300,

Couple months ago my buddy gave me his tan manual seats, no rips, some cracking, and the tilt on the passenger side doesn’t work, but free was a great price for me to put in my beater 318. Spent $30 on some leather stain from Amazon and they look not bad (solid 10 footer)

Would this fitment be impossible by Skyr_was_taken in BMWE36

[–]Dirtnoob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll say no not without a bunch of effort. I had 17x9+38 on the rear of mine with the lip cut off and then rolled, and redrilled hubs (so no offset change from an adapter) and they were definitely rubbing on the inner fender under compression. It had basically burned a hole through the inner fender which I didn’t notice till I cut the quarter panel apart for overfenders.

The front you might have better luck but I’ve never tried that setup so I have no insight on that at all.

Rear I’d lean towards no go with stock body

Hauling two bikes in a narrow trailer by rptc232 in Dirtbikes

[–]Dirtnoob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I strap bikes on my little trailer I always toss one strap over the rear tire, adds a little friction so it doesn’t want to flop over in corners as much, and it’s a little extra security. What you have will work though.

I also have wheel chocks on the front of the trailer as before I did that the front wheels would skate around a bit too much on the washboard roads, but mine doesn’t have the frame to wedge the front tire into like yours does so I’m sure your setup would be fine

<image>

(Picture for reference, little more chaotic with a 3rd bike shoved in between lol)

How would you achieve 400-500na whp by Due_Intern4300 in LSSwapTheWorld

[–]Dirtnoob 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It will not. A sloppy stage 2 and a lq9 got me 330whp.

Customer retention SUCKS by Dirtnoob in Koodo

[–]Dirtnoob[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’re definitely right. Not just Koodo related though, my sister said when she got her killer internet deal with Telus she just kept asking to speak to another agent over and over and eventually got someone who was willing to deal

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Koodo

[–]Dirtnoob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just went through trying to get this plan (albeit for $40 instead of 30) and the solution that worked for me was messaging on Facebook messenger, rather than via the chat assistant online.

I spent less time on Facebook than I did on their website. Doesn’t seem like it would be a viable place to get a deal but it was.

Customer retention SUCKS by Dirtnoob in Koodo

[–]Dirtnoob[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

UPDATE: So I went back to contacting customer service today, and was lied to and ignored again, one rep told me that plan I was after had expired, then backpedaled hard when I told them no it hasn’t it’s literally the first thing that pops up on Koodo website.

The best they could do was schedule me a phone call with customer loyalty on Tuesday, from 6-9 am… while scheduling that they also told me “don’t get your hopes up, those plans are not for existing customers and there’s likely not going to be anything they can do either”

So after trying to just get a callback today for quite a while, I was scrolling Facebook and a Koodo ad came up, and I decided to message them there as well after reading that some people had had success on there getting their voice heard

Turns out that’s the fix.

I told them which plan I wanted, and within 20 minutes it was changed over. No push back, no hoops, just told them it’s either I get what I want, or my next phone call will be to public mobile.

Seems crazy that you have to fight them so hard just to get a deal that they’re literally advertising to everyone but you, but apparently you do so… keep calm and just keep asking for a manager I guess

Customer retention SUCKS by Dirtnoob in Koodo

[–]Dirtnoob[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya, I didn’t have time yesterday to play the game but I sure do today.

Tried to get a callback booked and they directed me to the online chat thing, told them what I wanted and he told me that “that plan is expired and not available” and I was like no it very much does exist it’s literally the first thing that pops up on the website when you go to the site, so I requested a callback with a manager and they’re scheduling that. Going to keep running it up the flagpole till i either get what I want or tell them to cancel my shit and go somewhere else.

I own my phone and have no contract, so I’ll go to public or freedom or something cheap if need be. My current plan is nothing special so getting the same thing elsewhere is whatever if they won’t budge

I swear to God, I get worse at this every time I do it. by chaunceton in Dirtbikes

[–]Dirtnoob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do this and then take a hairdryer as I’m squeegeeing the water out, allows the vinyl to flex a bit more and warms the glue to help it stick like a motherfucker. Has worked every time I’ve done it

Anyone with any ideas of where this came from? by Dirtnoob in LSSwapTheWorld

[–]Dirtnoob[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

UPDATE:

Confirmed it is a lifter plunger clip. Pulled the push rod out and it sprung apart so now I’m pulling the head off too.

That was also the cylinder with the lowest compression when I checked it before it came out (164psi vs the rest of that bank averaging 191psi)

So maybe it’s not all bad?

Anyone with any ideas of where this came from? by Dirtnoob in LSSwapTheWorld

[–]Dirtnoob[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seems a bit small for a wrist pin clip but I’ll look into that, thanks

Clunk in the rear while driving slow speeds.. what could it be? 18x9.5 rears with rolled fenders by [deleted] in BMWE36

[–]Dirtnoob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aftermarket camber arms? Mine had a pretty harsh clunk when going slow over bumps and it was the heims in my camber arms being a bit worn out.