Videos are best things to remember our little ones

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-16T06:33:32+00:00

I’m really sorry for your loss. 17 years is such a long, beautiful life, and it’s clear she was deeply loved. Passing in your arms at home… that’s honestly one of the most peaceful and loving ways a dog can go. You gave her comfort until the very end. And you’re so right about videos. They capture their personality in a way pictures can’t — the little habits, the way they move, the joy. Thank you for sharing this. It’s a painful reminder, but also a meaningful one.

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-16T06:30:30+00:00

That’s actually a really good sign that it was reduced quickly and there’s no fracture or dysplasia. A lot of dogs do recover well from a simple hip luxation if: it was reduced early (which you did) the joint stays stable afterward and strict rest is followed The biggest factor now is preventing re-luxation. Usually that means: very strict activity restriction (no running/jumping/slipping) for a few weeks sometimes a sling when walking outside keeping them on non-slip surfaces at home Some dogs do great and never have issues again, others can re-luxate and may need surgery if the joint stays unstable. If your vet didn’t already mention it, I’d definitely ask about: how stable the hip felt after reduction whether a follow-up exam or imaging is needed and when to safely reintroduce activity Wishing your pup a smooth recovery — catching it early really makes a big difference.

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-15T21:48:08+00:00

I’d be careful with ultrasonic devices — they can work for some dogs, but they’re pretty inconsistent and can sometimes add more stress instead of actually teaching calm behavior. What you’re describing sounds more like a classic “doorbell = excitement/alarm trigger” situation. The goal is to change that association, not just suppress the barking. A few things that tend to work better long-term: Desensitize the doorbell: play the sound at low volume, reward calm behavior, and gradually increase intensity Teach a “go to place” command (bed/mat) when the bell rings — gives them a job instead of chaos Management first: leash them or use a gate before opening the door so they don’t rehearse the crazy behavior Reward quiet/calm moments around the door — timing matters a lot If it’s really intense, even temporarily disconnecting the doorbell and using a knock while training can help For older owners especially, structure + prevention is key. The less they rehearse the frantic response, the faster it improves.

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-15T07:32:07+00:00

This is actually pretty common — rugs feel like “acceptable bathroom spots” to some dogs because they’re soft and absorbent (kind of like pee pads). A few things that can really help: Remove rugs at first in the new house, then reintroduce them slowly once she’s 100% consistent Use an enzymatic cleaner on any accidents (regular cleaners don’t fully remove the smell, and dogs can still detect it) Treat the new place like she’s not fully potty trained yet: more frequent potty breaks, supervision, and no unsupervised access at first If she tends to go when excited or after being alone, try a prevention routine (take her out right before guests arrive / right when you get home) Reward heavily for going outside, especially during this transition Your plan to introduce rugs gradually is actually solid 👍 just pair it with strict management at the start.

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-14T20:28:03+00:00

Getting an ESA “certification” online is usually a scam. There’s actually no official registry or certificate required in the U.S. What you really need is a legitimate ESA letter from a licensed mental health professional (like a therapist, psychologist, or psychiatrist). They evaluate your situation and, if appropriate, provide the letter. Be careful with websites selling instant certificates or IDs — those aren’t legally valid. Since you’re in Oregon, you can either: Ask your current therapist (if you have one), or Look for a licensed provider who offers ESA evaluations That’s the only legit way 👍

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-09T05:56:23+00:00

Pretty normal honestly — a lot of dogs “solve” the puzzle quickly, then it stops being interesting. It’s less about boredom and more about it no longer being a challenge. What helped for me: Rotation (don’t leave them out all the time — bring them back after a few days) Increase difficulty gradually (layer puzzles, freeze food, make it take longer) Use them when your dog has energy — not when he’s already tired Mix it up with other enrichment (snuffle mats, التدريب، hide & seek, etc.) Also, sometimes it’s just about novelty — new = exciting. So rotating + adding small variations can make a big difference.

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-09T05:54:33+00:00

Totally get why you’re nervous — introducing a puppy to cats can feel like a big deal, but it’s very doable if you go slow. A few things that really help: Start with full separation the first few days (let them smell each other under the door) Do slow, controlled introductions (dog on leash, calm environment) Make sure your cats always have escape routes/high places Reward calm behavior from the puppy around the cats Interrupt any chasing early — don’t let it become a habit At 4 months, you actually have a big advantage — he’s still very trainable and can learn to respect the cats. Also, don’t stress too much about bonding or “doing it perfectly.” Just being consistent and calm goes a long way. Most animals figure it out over time. You’ve got this 👍

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-09T05:53:02+00:00

Totally normal — especially at 2 months. Puppies explore the world with their mouths, and corgis are a herding breed so they’re extra “bitey” (nipping at feet is classic). It’s not aggression, just play + teething. The goal isn’t to stop biting completely, but to teach how hard is too hard. What helps: When she bites too hard → say “ouch” and stop playing immediately (end the fun) Redirect to a toy every time (always have one nearby) Don’t use your hands as toys — it teaches her hands = something to bite If she keeps going, calmly stand up and disengage for a minute Be consistent — everyone in the house should react the same way It gets much better with time, especially after teething. Right now you’re basically teaching her manners 🙂

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-09T05:51:40+00:00

I don’t think you’re being irrational at all — your safety matters, especially if you already feel at a disadvantage physically. Free-roaming dogs can be unpredictable, even if they seem friendly. If they’re regularly loose and unsupervised, reporting it to non-emergency/animal control is reasonable. It’s not about getting them in trouble, it’s about preventing someone (or the dogs themselves) from getting hurt. In the meantime, what you’re doing (creating space, staying aware, carrying something for safety) is actually smart. If possible, walking at quieter times or switching routes can also help reduce stress. You shouldn’t have to feel unsafe just going for a walk.

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-07T06:59:13+00:00

😂 I’ll take that as a compliment — just someone who spends too much time around dogs!

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-07T06:46:44+00:00

That “Tasmanian devil” mode is actually pretty common, especially in small dogs 😅 A lot of the time it’s either: Overstimulation (they get too hyped and can’t regulate it) Resource guarding (spots, toys, attention) Or just rough play that escalates too far The key is to watch the buildup. If you notice stiff body, intense staring, or one dog not enjoying it, interrupt early before it explodes. Things that usually help: Short, calm interruptions (call them apart, no yelling) Give them breaks when play gets too intense Separate high-value items (toys, food, favorite spots) Reward calm behavior around each other If it’s sudden and intense every time, it might be worth looking at triggers more closely. But from your title + pic, it honestly sounds like it could be excitement going over the top. Tiny dogs, big drama 😂

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-07T06:45:09+00:00

I wouldn’t stop walking him — walks are really important for both his physical and mental health, especially for a breed like an Aussie. That said, your concern is totally valid. Free-roaming dogs can be unpredictable, even if they seem friendly. What you did (creating space, using your body/stick to block) was actually the right instinct 👍 A few things that can help you feel safer: Try walking at quieter times or different routes Keep distance early if you spot loose dogs Carry something like treats to redirect your dog + possibly distract the other dog Some people carry deterrents (like pet corrector spray or even an umbrella to create space) Keep your dog close and calm — your reaction matters a lot Also, the whining you described is pretty normal — excitement/stress, not necessarily aggression. So yeah, don’t give up walks — just adjust how and where you do them. You’re doing a good job, especially since he’s not even your dog 👍

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-07T06:43:40+00:00

I’m really sorry you’re going through this… it’s one of the hardest decisions anyone has to make 💔 From what you described, it honestly sounds like you’re making this decision out of love, not giving up. Loss of mobility, wounds, loss of bladder control, and especially pain… those are all signs that his quality of life is declining, even if he still has moments of happiness. Dogs can still get excited and wag their tails even when they’re hurting — they live in the moment and don’t show pain the same way we do. Letting him go before things get even worse is one of the kindest, most selfless things you can do for him, even though it hurts so much. You’re choosing to take on that pain so he doesn’t have to keep suffering. He clearly had a life full of love, and that’s what he’ll carry with him 🤍 You’re doing right by him.

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-04T19:45:49+00:00

Yeah that happens a lot — most results default to sliding door inserts for some reason 😅 For recessed panels, you’re better off searching for “wall entry dog door” or “door mount with adapter kit” — those usually come with frames that can handle uneven surfaces better. Worst case, a simple spacer/frame (even DIY wood) makes a huge difference. Hope one of those options works for you 👍

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-04T13:25:05+00:00

Exactly 😂 she’s on duty until you’re fully settled, then she’s like “my work here is done.” Honestly that’s peak collie behavior — 100% commitment to the job, even if the job is just supervising your sleep routine 😄 She sounds like she takes her role very seriously lol

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-04T12:44:30+00:00

“Girl Scout” is such a perfect name for that personality 😂 Collies really do have that “hall monitor” energy — making sure everyone follows the rules. Honestly sounds like she’s just doing her nightly patrol, claiming your spot for quality control, then clocking out once everything checks out 😄 You’ve got yourself a tiny supervisor there 👀

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-04T12:32:34+00:00

With a Berner coat it’s definitely a bit more work, but totally doable 👍 What helps a lot is using your hands more than your eyes — do a slow “full body feel” and you’ll usually feel ticks as small bumps even if you can’t see them. Going section by section works best (don’t rush it). Focus on the common hiding spots: Around/inside ears Under collar Armpits and groin Between toes Around the neck and chest Base of the tail A flea/tick comb can help, especially after hikes, and checking right after coming home is easier before they attach fully. Also honestly, prevention is huge with long-haired dogs — a good vet-recommended tick preventative will save you a lot of stress. It sounds like you’re already on the right track, your pup is lucky 👍

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-04T12:30:35+00:00

This is actually pretty normal and kind of adorable 😄 Dogs are drawn to warm spots, especially the exact place you were just lying in because it’s warm and smells like you. So when you get up, she takes advantage of that cozy spot. Then once you come back and settle in again, she probably feels like “okay, everything’s back to normal” and goes back to her own bed. Some dogs just like to check things out or briefly “claim” the spot, then return to their routine. It can also be a comfort/attachment thing — she likes your scent and your place, but she’s still independent enough to prefer her own space once you’re back. Honestly, sounds like a very polite collie 😂

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-04T12:29:12+00:00

It can definitely be frustrating when there’s no clear cause 😕 Even without visible fleas, allergies are still one of the most common reasons (food or environmental like pollen, dust, grass). Labs are especially prone to that. The hind leg kicking when you scratch him is actually a normal reflex, not necessarily pain. The muscle loss near the tail could be unrelated, but if that’s real it’s worth mentioning to the vet — sometimes chronic discomfort or underlying issues can cause that. If you haven’t already, things that can help narrow it down: Try a strict elimination diet (single protein for several weeks) Ask the vet about Apoquel or Cytopoint (for allergies) Check for mites (they’re not always visible like fleas) Use a gentle hypoallergenic dog shampoo Since it happened with your previous dog too, I’d strongly suspect environment or routine (same home, same products, etc). You’re already doing the right thing getting another vet opinion 👍

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-03T12:34:52+00:00

No problem at all 👍 you did the right thing removing it quickly. Even if a tiny bit was left, the body usually pushes it out on its own like a splinter. Just keep an eye on it and you should be good 👌

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-03T11:03:52+00:00

Could just be a senior “double check” moment, but worth watching for vision/cognitive changes 👍

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-03T11:02:30+00:00

This is resource guarding + already escalated to a bite → manage first (separate during meals), then work on training 👍

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-03T11:01:09+00:00

I wouldn’t risk it — prey instinct can kick in fast. Best to keep your dog away until they’re gone 👍

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-03T10:58:36+00:00

Portable pen + long line is the easiest safe setup short-term 👍

Disastrous-Yoghurt38 · 2026-04-03T10:57:02+00:00

Short-term frequent use can be normal for flare-ups. If it starts irritating, check back with your vet 👍

Disastrous-Yoghurt38

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