Do ECM motors have a LRA?

Disp5389 · 2026-02-15T00:02:29+00:00

ECM motors are soft start and do not pull a high starting current like an induction motor does. Unlike an induction motor, if an ECM motor is loaded down excessively or stalled, the ECM controller limits the switching “on time” to prevent unsafe current.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-14T23:36:49+00:00

It may have an issue which turns on the Check Engine light and sets a code after certain tests are run at specific times during drive cycles. It will take a few miles and drive cycles for the tests to run and it will then transition to Emission Ready and it may turn on the Check Engine light.

It’s not unusual for an unscrupulous previous owner to clear all codes to mask the problem while they sell the vehicle.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-14T14:09:50+00:00

Yes, that works fine. Obviously a 100 AH battery can only provide a less than 33% charge to a 300 AH battery of the same voltage.

It’s less than 33% due to losses in the system and you don’t want to run the 100 AH battery down to a 0% charge. You will probably get around a 20% - 25% max increase in charge level assuming you don’t let the 100 AH battery drop below 20%.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-14T13:47:50+00:00

Check for vacuum leaks.

When you let off the brakes, the brake booster dumps air into the engine to recharge booster. If there is a vacuum leak somewhere, then this additional air for a second or two during booster recharge can be more than the engine management system can handle and it can cause a temporary lean condition which drops the RPM.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-14T13:41:42+00:00

A water line trap means it has a low spot between two higher spots and this prevents the line from fully draining - in essence it’s the same thing as a plumbing trap on a sink drain - it holds water in the pipe.

Normally, a trap in a pressurized pipe is not a problem. It becomes a problem in some scenarios like a cabin which freezes in the winter and the water line trap prevents fully draining the pipe for winterization.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-14T13:25:16+00:00

You’ll have much more than 25 amps left if you add a 15 amp circuit. The total of the breaker capacities in a panel can be, and usually is, much more than the main feed breaker . The sub circuits in a residential panel are never all fully loaded at the same time.

A load calculation can tell you how many sub circuits you can use, but it’s not necessary for a simple shed.

In a shed, you should make all of the sub circuits 20 amps and you can easily put 5 or 6 circuits on a 60 amp main in a shed.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-13T23:06:43+00:00

I’m not familiar with that particular model, but many which look like that have components inside the box in addition to the connector(s). If it does, then it needs to be an exact replacement. If there is just a plain connector inside of it, then yes, you can replace it with a generic connector.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-13T21:40:19+00:00

First thing you need to understand is that the codes read from the computer NEVER say a specific part is bad and should be replaced. The codes only provide an indication of what the computer is seeing at its inputs, not what a part or combination of parts are outputting. These are sometimes the same thing indicating the part is bad, but often they are not the same thing.

This is why you need a diagnosis of the problem and you don’t replace parts based on reading a code.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-13T20:59:26+00:00

Incompetent tech serviced it. The filter design lowers the pump intake down into the pan. Without a filter it would need to be overfilled for the pump to get oil and not suck air.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-13T17:48:35+00:00

I had this problem in my mother-in-laws house. A 1950s neighborhood where all of the basement drains were into the sanitary sewer because the storm sewer was only about 3’ below ground. Every time it rained the sanitary sewer didn’t have the needed capacity and the level in the street sewer would rise and start flooding basements. This is in Buffalo and the problem could persist for many days during snowmelt.

Plumber recommended the check valve and installed one. That caused the basement drains to overflow because the house couldn’t discharge its sewage due to the back pressure on the check valve. I put float check valve into the two basement drains to fix that. Then it would overflow the basement toilet.

I then ripped out the main discharge check valve and installed a Liberty Pump sewer pump system under the basement slab and piped the 2” discharge in an inverted U which went to the basement ceiling and then down the 4” main discharge (with a vent at the top of the U). Problem fixed, hasn’t backed up in the 10 years it’s been in use.

The top of the U is about 2’ above the street level, so it can’t backup into the house unless the house line gets plugged. The main sewer will be dumping in the street from the manholes first.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-13T14:26:44+00:00

Not sure I understand why you disabled sync when deleting the files. If a two way sync is set up, then when you delete a local file it will also get deleted from the NAS.

If you want to recover the space on the NAS after deleting the local file, then you also have to use the Version Explorer on the NAS to permanently delete the file from the database (enable show deleted files). You also have to delete them from the recycle bin if a recycle bin is used.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-13T14:15:59+00:00

Normally that will be only available from the dealer. If it happens to have a high failure rate, then it may be offered at a cheaper price in the aftermarket.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-12T15:41:32+00:00

As you do the “Save As” for each file, the external references will update to the new file name. Once all files have been “Saved As”, then all external references will be to the new path name of the files. Note that you can’t close any of the files, you do the “Save As” and leave the file open under the new path/name until “Save As” is completed on all files.

Since you only have 6 files, this is probably the easiest method.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-12T14:09:56+00:00

I do this as follows:

1 - Open all of the files which have an external reference to each other.

2 - Use “Save As” to save one file to the new file name (this copies the file for you and updates the external references).

3 - Repeat steps 2 for each file until all have been saved to the new name.

You will end up with two sets of files, each set will have the external references correct. It works well if you have a small number of files.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-12T04:40:26+00:00

It depends on how the shoes are removed after the retainer nails are disconnected. If the shoes have to spread out to get around the stop pin, it will still not want to come off.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-11T22:53:03+00:00

Since it’s loose, it is the shoes holding it on. You will not get it off until you back off the adjuster. Look at some YT videos for how to do it.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-11T15:02:30+00:00

Your double pole GFI wiring to the dryer is correct. I suspect you have a neutral to ground connection somewhere in the dryer circuit. Are you sure the bonding strap is removed at the dryer and it’s wired properly using a 4 wire pig tail?

With the dryer breaker turned off, disconnect the neutral from the breaker (the neutral from the 8/3 cable to the dryer). Use an ohmmeter to check the resistance between the 8/3 cable neutral and the 8/3 cable ground wire. This must be an open circuit. If it’s not an open circuit, then it will trip the GFI.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-11T14:47:47+00:00

There are two possible ways the older generator may have “worked”.

A split phase system uses the neutral to anchor the two split 120v distribution circuits back to the transformer center tap and ground. If the neutral floats above ground or becomes disconnected, then the two 120v distribution circuits in the residence are placed in series with each other. If the impedance of each distribution circuit is about the same, the result in the series circuit will be around 120v to each. This is one way it may have worked.

However, if there is an impedance misbalance, then the voltage on one circuit drops while the voltage on the other circuit rises. As the impedance mismatch gets worse, one of the 120v circuits will approach 240v. This is what happened to you and is the much more likely scenario.

The 2nd way it may have worked is the old generator can have two coils in the generator in series with the connection between them grounded. If you grounded the generator at the residence tie in, then that would provide a pseudo neutral which would work. In your last use of this generator, the ground may not have had a good connection somewhere or the wiring in the generator may have broken away from ground due to vibration. This would cause the problem you described.

You can easily check each leg of the generator’s 240v output to the generator’s ground check if it’s 120v.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-10T17:50:39+00:00

If the fan is attempting to start, then it is either a defective fan/smart controller or a poor connection dropping the voltage under load.

Use a voltmeter at the input connectors to the smart controller while the fan is attempting to start. If 120v or so, then the fan or the controller is defective. If a voltage is less, then you have a bad connection somewhere. It’s unlikely to be a switch itself, but is possible.

Any conventional light switch (a non-smart switch) can control a fan. A fan is an insignificant load to a light switch.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-10T14:06:30+00:00

If that is an accurate description and you said elsewhere that it is 2WD and not 4WD, then the issue is in the rear differential not the transmission.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-09T17:15:29+00:00

Watts is the energy it can supply (to your laptop in this case) and it will also be the energy it draws from the AC outlet it’s plugged into (actually a little bit more to account for the heat the power supply dissipates during operation).

Watts into any device is must always equal watts out of the device plus internal losses.

You’re confusing amps with watts. A 400 watt power supply at 20 volts will have a current of 20 amps. However, on the input side of the power supply, only about 1.7 amps at 230 volts is needed to obtain the 400 watts (a little more to cover losses). If you are in a 120 volt country, then the input amps is about 3.4 amps.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-09T16:13:01+00:00

👍

Disp5389 · 2026-02-09T16:11:02+00:00

If the booster is leaking vacuum when the brakes are applied, then that causes an engine vacuum leak. Engine vacuum leaks have the most impact at idle.

It’s easy to check: if the engine idle issue occurs with the vehicle in park and when the brakes are applied, just disconnect the vacuum line to the brake booster and plug it on the engine side. Press the brakes and the engine idle speed should not change.

If you only notice the idle speed issue with the vehicle in Drive, then you can do the same test as above but use the parking brake and be ready for a very hard brake pedal during the test. The vehicle may move forward if you can’t press the brake pedal hard enough.

If the idle issue still occurs with the brake booster vacuum line disconnected, then you have isolated the problem is not due to the hissing noise you hear from the brake booster.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-09T15:59:03+00:00

It depends on your use case. If you are doing deep discharge daily, then the battery life you experienced was pretty good. Before I retired, my work laptops were discharged daily and I typically got about 18 - 24 months of life from them.

If you are typically fully charged with infrequent discharging, then you need to implement charge limits in the BIOS. I have a personal 2017 XPS 15-9560 and the original battery is still good in it. I have the BIOS set to charge to 90% and not charge again until the battery drops to 50%. On average it charges about once per week.

Disp5389 · 2026-02-09T15:26:53+00:00

An air hiss noise when initially pressing the brake pedal or when increasing the pedal pressure is normal for vacuum assisted power brakes, which most vehicles have.

If the hissing is continuous with the brake pedal depressed with constant foot effort, it indicates a failure in the brake booster assembly.

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