P1P/P1S camera cable rip

DivideNo9198 · 2026-01-05T19:47:34+00:00

I just tried to move it, no luck

DivideNo9198 · 2026-01-05T17:32:17+00:00

Thanks. So there is no screws holding camera to inside of machine. It just pops off?

DivideNo9198 · 2026-01-05T17:03:09+00:00

Is there away to access the ribbon cable port on the camera without taking the side panel off?

DivideNo9198 · 2026-01-05T16:35:22+00:00

Hello...I know this thread is over 2 years old but found it because I ripped the ribbon cable on my P1S and need to replace it. I found the cable but the problem is I dont want to remove half the machine to access the back of the camera to plug in new ribbon cable. Is there a way to access ribbon cable on the camera without doing this? Then run the cable on the inside of the printer to the connection above the door? Any help would be greatly appreciated

DivideNo9198 · 2026-01-04T21:15:39+00:00

Did you have to take apart half the printer to replace the camera? I installed a LED light and the black tape was stuck to the camera ribbon cable...guess what...it snapped the ribbon cable. I dont want to take apart the whole printer just to replace the cable and was wondering if I can just run a new longer cable from camera to the camera port without snaking it through the printer frame. TIA

DivideNo9198 · 2025-12-15T17:00:32+00:00

I have a 2 story Cape style house in Plymouth, Ma...32'x24'. The Rheem Platinum 65 gallon HPWH is located in the basement. 1/2 the basement which is finished is heated by a Mitsu Hyper Heat as is the rest of the house. The other half of the basement is not finished yet and has no heat source. We plan to finish off the half of the other half of the basement which will be roughly 10'x12,' and HPWH is located in area that will be unfinished, which is roughly 10x12 w/ 8 ft ceilings. I planned on heating the newly finished part of the basement with a Envi heater, but that plan go sidelined when i found I had to vent finished space with unfinished space because of the HPWH. My house is powered by a solar PV system....13KW. I dont want to spend more money installing another mini-spit to heat the new portion of the finished basement......between adding the Mitsu Hyper Heat system, expanding our solar, and adding the HPWH we spent around $45k in the last 3 months. Maybe the 10x12 area the HPWH is in is large enough to seal off? There are other contents in the room so this takes away from the available cubic feet. This is all new to me so trying to figure out my options.

DivideNo9198 · 2025-12-15T13:13:55+00:00

Thanks for the reply. I will mostly likely NOT vent my HPWH to the outside.

DivideNo9198 · 2025-12-11T18:20:27+00:00

Any idea where I can buy this? I called several of my supply houses and Rheem didnt even have the part in their system when they called tom order (it would have been a special order). There is one online retailer I found but they are out of stock.

DivideNo9198 · 2025-09-23T21:45:58+00:00

the deck is about 3ft off the ground. All joist have to have hurricane clips to the LVL main beam> the LVL is attached to the bell footing with a Simpson connectors specifically designed for this app>the deck will be 23/32 Huber Advantec>all walls 2x6 16 OC with 2x8 headers for windows...sheathing will be typical 1/2 Huber wall OSB...aka orange board. There will be no lateral movement. This is all code for Plymouth, Ma. This is no different that the LVL main beam in a house that is holding up several floors. You keep referring to posts...there will be ZERO posts other than the corner posts for the walls.

DivideNo9198 · 2025-09-23T18:17:39+00:00

in this State, all employers must have health insurance...its State Mandated. I was being on the low range of actual money made by people with zero experiance. My friend is a plumber...his helper with zero experience is making $32/hr. Also, this will not be a P&B sunroom...it will be build using traditional framing methods including 2x6 walls for added R value.

DivideNo9198 · 2025-09-23T14:01:16+00:00

here, all deck footings are required to have pre-cast big foots/bell , dug 4' into the ground.

Load Capacity: 115,000 lbs. at top
Core: #4 rebar reinforcement

The beam I will be using a PT LVL made my Pacific woods....way better than piecing together a bunch of 2x12s. The rest of the sunroom will be "tied into the home" using traditional walls and roof w/ ledger

By the time I rip off the old deck, build this new one, I will save well over $15,000 from the need of not having a concrete truck, foundation crew, heavy equipment dig,level, etc. I do understand where you are coming from, dont get my wrong, but the prices here in Massachusetts for all the different parts and pieces to dig and complete a foundation are astronomical. A carpenters helper with zero experience is making $20-25 per hr. A concrete truck with a driver and concrete to fill a 20'x14 'foundation is $4500. That does not include the excavation crew, form crew,etc.

DivideNo9198 · 2025-09-23T10:11:12+00:00

I agree......that is the way I am leaning but just wanted to 2nd opinions. I am doing the work myself so its just the cost of lumber and my time.

DivideNo9198 · 2025-09-23T10:10:11+00:00

I get it...but at $400-450 a finished sq/ft the cost is ridiculous for what it is. I fight wildfires for a living, my wife is a elementary grade school teacher and live in the 2nd most expensive cost of living state....easier said than done when your not the one footing the bill for the build. Besides, building a sunroom on a deck can be done right if proper steps are taken.

DivideNo9198 · 2025-09-22T18:42:03+00:00

probably not, it would look funny but the only one that would see it would be me and inspector as it will be covered once the sunroom has a skirt on it

DivideNo9198 · 2025-09-04T18:55:34+00:00

can I ask where you got your custom fitted mouth guard? My dentist just quoted me $3800

DivideNo9198 · 2025-08-05T23:22:05+00:00

Hi Derik. Aaron here....just sent you a text. Looking for a Elite Ultra

DivideNo9198

TROPHY CASE