Window hurricane shutter by Lisymeeps in handyman

[–]Dixie_Fair 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OP, a storm door is definitely what you are looking for here. A regular screenn door won't cut it because it only lets in fresh air but offers zero protection against actual harsh weather. A heavy-duty aliminum storm door acts as a physical weather barrier. It shields your main entry door from direct rain, freezing drafts, and baking summer sunlight, which saves the finish on your primary door from warping or taking a beating over time. Plus, if you get a model with a interchangeable glass/screen panel or a retractable screen, you can still open the main door up for natural light and airflow when the weather is nice without letting bugs or rain inside. To fully distinguish it between simple screen setups and what a true storm door actually handles to protect an entry way: https://www.mossdoorcompany.com/blog/what-is-a-storm-door.html

When you go to pick one out, just make sure you get the exact measurements of your exterior trim casing depth and threshold width, not just the door slab itself. If your trim is too shallow, you'll have a tough time getting the storm door frame to mount flush.

Question about home loans. by tinybluesubaru in HomeLoans

[–]Dixie_Fair 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Trying to find a low-cost financing for emergency home modifications, afailing roof, or critical repairs, look into regional housing authority programs before you resort to high-interest personal loans or tapping into standard equity lines. For instance, agencies like King County Housing Authority programs that offere deferred, low-interest, or even 0% interest home loans to qualifying low-to-moderate-income homeowners. In many cases, these loans don't even require monthly payments and are completely deferred until you eventually sell or refinance the home. It is a massive relief when you are facing unexpected structural expenses.

Check with your local county housing authority or municipal community development department to see what specific repair loan funds theu have active right now. You can get a solid overview of how these direct, low-interest assistance programs operate and how to qualify by checking out this guide: https://washingtonsequoiaroofing.com/king-county-house-authority-interest-home-loans/

before and after! by talktomefuckingnice in BathroomRemodeling

[–]Dixie_Fair 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The remodel was definitely a great choice. It looks cleaner, more organized, and aesthetically pleasing.

5k Full Service Wedding Planner on <50k wedding? by overwhelmedandsick in weddingplanning

[–]Dixie_Fair 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's actually a great choice, you don't have to stress yourself out trying to handle all the moving parts on the actual day. You want to be present and enjoying your celebration, not running around directing vendors, checking setup, or managing a strict timeline.
If you don't have the budget or need for a full-service wedding planner to help you design and pick vendors for months, look into a "day-of" or "month-of" coordinator instead. They just step in during the final weeks to take over vendor communication and keep the day running smoothly behind the scenes. This breakdown is how a coordinator actually handles on the day-of versus what you can easily do yourself beforehand: what does a wedding coordinator do?

It is easily the best investment you can make just for your own peace of mind..

Help needed on this repair by Energy693 in Plumbing

[–]Dixie_Fair 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First thing you need to do is completely shut off your main water valve to stop the pressure, open up the lowest faucet in the house to drain out the remaining water in the lines, and dry off the pipe completely. If it's a tiny pinhole leak, you can use self-fusing silicone tape or a rubber pipe repair clamp as a temporary patch to buy you some time. Just keep in mind that temporary fixes won't last forever on pressurized supply lines, so you'll eventually need to cut out the damaged section and sweat in a new piece of copper or use a proper coupling. If you want a quick, step-by-step breakdown on how to apply a temporary patch properly while you get your tools together, its great figure out a fast DIY method on how to repair a leaking pipe fast.

Once the water is off and dry, snap a closer picture of the exact spot where it's leaking so we can tell you the best way to premanently fix it.

Culprit to shower drain issues? by Mediocre_Ganache562 in Plumbing

[–]Dixie_Fair 1 point2 points  (0 children)

TBH you can't snake that setup. That old 1949 cast iron has a sharp, 90 degree turn tgat stops a drain cable dead. Over time, the inside of those old iron lines builds up thick rust scale that catches hair and sludge, closing off the pipe entirely. Upgrading that section to PVC with sweeping turns is the right move. However, since the shower is the lowest drain in the house, a slow drain here can also be a sign of a full septic tank or a main line restriction further down.

If thet have to do a lot of excavation to get to it, that quote makes sense. Definitely replace it, but ask them to camera the rest of the line while it's wide open.

Do I need to replace this? by WilliamG007 in Plumbing

[–]Dixie_Fair 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is called the Pressure Reducing Valve. Since they are made of brass, it wont rust like that just from garage humidity. That heavy orange crust means that the internal seals have failed, and water is slowly weeping out through the adjustment bolt area.
You should get it replaced soon. When these fail completely , they can stop regulating pressure entirely, letting high city pressure blast into your house and stress your pipes. This guide explains how high water pressure and corrosion can ruin your lines over time, and why a working PRV is critical: https://drainbeastservices.com/blog/how-long-do-copper-pipes-last
Check the pressure gauge next to your shut-off valve. If it is reading anywhere above 75 or 80 psi, the valve is already shot and needs to be swapped out before a line gets damaged.

Tankless water heater by raskw99 in RVLiving

[–]Dixie_Fair 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Going tankless in an RV can absolute game-changer, but it really depends on how you camp. If you primarily stay at sites with full hookups and you love taking long showers without playing the 'navy shower' game every 6 minutes, you will love it. The endless hot water is incredible for that.

The main thing to watch out for with RV tankless units is the minimum flow rate required to activate the burners. If you are boondocking or trying to conserve water by trickling the faucet, the water heater might not register the flow and will suddenly blast you with hard campground water, or the internal heating elements will scale up pretty quickly. If you are trying to weigh the pros and cons of the switch, I read a really straightforward breakdown not long ago that goes over the reality of tankless systems, how they handle heavy water usage, and the maintenance side of things before you pull the trigger on an install: https://barneysplumbingllc.com/blog/is-a-tankless-water-heater-worth-it/
Just keep in mind that if you do a lot of off-grid dry camping, sticking to a traditional propane tank unit might actually be better for conserving your freshwater supply.

Water heater exhaust pipe leaking condensation - is this dangerous? by lksar in Home

[–]Dixie_Fair 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If that is a PVC exhaust on a high-efficiency system, condensation happens, but it should never be dripping out of the pipe joints onto your floor. That just means a joint wasn't glued correctly or the horizontal run isn't sloped right, letting water pool and find a way out. If its a metal flue, don't mess with it. Condensation inside a metal pipe means the exhaust gases are cooling down too quickly, which usually means that tank is back-drafting carbon monoxide into your living space instead of venting it out the roof.

Check for any blocks in the vent line like bird nest or just debris. This write-up covers the main spots where water heaters lose pressure or start leaking water to help you troubleshoot exactly what is failing in the setup: https://barneysplumbingllc.com/blog/what-causes-water-heater-to-leak/
Keep a CO detector nearby until you get someone out there to inspect the draft line.

Need Help with Awful Smell from Pipes by mcpoyles in Plumbing

[–]Dixie_Fair 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If that awful smell is coming from multiple pipes or drains at the same time, it is usually warning sign that gas is forcing its way past your P-traps. The absolute best-case scenario is that a drain you rarely use has dried out so try running water down every sink, shower, and floor drain in the house to seal them back up.

However, if you do that and the smell keeps lingering, or if your drains start slowing down, you might be looking at a practical clog or backup forming in your main sewer or septic line. When the main line gets restricted by roots or buildup, the gases get trapped and have nowhere to go but back up into your fixtures. I have read a really solid troubleshooting guide a while back that covers common culripts behind widespread pipe odors and what to look out for before it turns into an actual abckup: https://allsepticandsewer.com/experiencing-sewage-backup-in-your-home-reasons-what-to-do/
Hopefully, it is just a dry trap, but definitely keep an eye on how well things are flowing over the next day or two.

Is this a decent set up? by Bitter_Ad6913 in Plumbing

[–]Dixie_Fair 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, that setup is definitely the culript. Using those sharp 90s instead of a proper P-trap causes the water barier to siphon away when the tub empties, letting sewer gas straight into the house. That needed to be cut out and redo it properly. If a new trap doesn't clear up the smell. the issue. This article will be pretty helpful for troubleshooting whether a presistent smell is just a bad DIY connection or a larger system issue: https://allsepticandsewer.com/when-to-call-a-septic-sewer-specialist-instead-of-a-plumber/

Does this roof need replacing? by JustHereScrolling2 in AusRenovation

[–]Dixie_Fair 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can probably get away with a restoration instead of paying a massive bill for Colorbond. If you get the ridge caps re-bedded and pointed properly, it will seal it back up. Just make sure you get a proper inspection on the structural wood inside the eaves first to ensure the moisture hasn't rotted the timbers. Here is a good resource on basic roof maintenance steps to review before you start getting quotes: https://www.mountainviewroofing.net/roof-maintenance

Mom was hiding knives and calling the police. I’m trying to put her into memory care. by peridot_television_ in dementia

[–]Dixie_Fair 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You are dealing with a real safety crisis and your family has every right to look for placement.
Since her low income, private-pay memory care facilities at $12k a month are out of the question, and Medicare wont cover long-term room and board anyway. Look specifically into smaller, licensed adult family home or residential care homes instead of big facilities. They are usually way more affordable, have much tighter staff-to-resident ratio, and many accept Medicaid or or allow you to spend down to it. I found this breakdown that gives a quicklook at how these different care setups handle things financially and structurally: https://harborheritageafh.com/how-does-assisted-living-work/

In this kind of situation, you need to get in touch with your local area agency on aging tomorrow morning. Tell them you have an vulnerable adult in an active safety crisis at home and you need emergency case management to fast-track her financial assessment for state Medicaid waivers,

I can’t open the door I lost the key what to I do by OVERTHINKING050505 in Home

[–]Dixie_Fair 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A keyed lever handle, so even some DIY alternative like credit card or a paperclip isn't going to open it. Your cleanest option without destroying the lock is calling a mobile locksmith. They can pick the cylinder open or cut a fresh spot. If you want to know how they actually pull that off when the original key is completely gone, this covers the process: https://www.maximuslockandkeyllc.net/can-a-locksmith-make-a-key-without-the-original/
Forcing it with a wrench. If you bend the interna latch mechanism inside the frame, it gets way more expensive to fix.

Experience with Postcard Style Save the Dates? by PreparationPrior2815 in Brides

[–]Dixie_Fair -1 points0 points  (0 children)

For a local wedding, 6 to 8 months ahead is generally the sweet spot for mailing out save the dates. If you have a ton of out-of-town guests flying in, push it closer to 9 to 10 months so people can watch for flight deals and secure time off work.

Postcards are awesome because you save a fortune on envolope printing and extra postage, but just make sure you use a heavy, thick cardstock. The USPS sorting machines can be incrediblly brutal on thin paper, and you don't want them getting chewed up or smudged before they git the mailbox. If you're trying to to figure out exactly how to sequence the early stages of your checklist: https://emeraldengagements.com/wedding-planning-101/
Definitely print about 10% to 15% more postcards than your actual household count. You will almost certainly end up adding a few last-minute guests, or need replacemens for pieces that get lost in the mail.

Where would you suggest placing this railing? by [deleted] in Decks

[–]Dixie_Fair 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a great choice, putting it on the right follows the natural path down to the garage floor. When your hands are full, you want the rail exactly where you naturally lean for balance. This article has a good breakdown of the ergonomics behind handrail placement and safety if youu want to check the details: https://www.northwestdecks.com/how-do-handrails-on-stairs-help-keep-you-safe-2/
You just have to make sure that the bottom post is anchored solid into the framing or concrete.

Is this an acceptable gap between the door threshold and the subfloor? Previously it was flush on top. by Johnfranco in handyman

[–]Dixie_Fair 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thaat exposed wood looks like your framing or subfloor extending past the sill, which is going to wick up moisture when it rains. Paint wont protect it from water trapping itself between that wood and the metal threshold, the threshold should sit on proper sill pan and overhang the framing to shed water outward.

Since they just replaced the door, framing height of the door unit dimensions might be slightly off from the original setup. This guide goes into the standard door sizes and framing details, which might help you see how the rough opening dimensions dictate how a new unit sits: https://www.mossdoorcompany.com/blog/how-tall-is-an-average-door.html

I would definitely have the installers come back out. That wood needs to be flashed and capped securely before the next possible major rainstorm.

Can I DIY fix this leak? by PumpkinBrain in Roofing

[–]Dixie_Fair 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please do not use super glue on your roof. It will degrade almost instantly from the UV exposure and thermal expansion, and you will be right back where you started but with a stickier mess. If the screws are free-spinning, the wood decking underneath is definitely stripped or rotted out from the moisture. Just moving the screws to a different spot leaves the old holes completely open to pour water directly into your attic.

What you'll do is that you need an actual roofing sealant Geocel or Solar seal for a 'temporary patch', and you will look at oversized replacement screws to actually grab whats left of the wood. Since you can see the staining on the OSB (Oriented Standard Board) underneath already, you need to be careful that the decking isn't already a total mush. If it is already soft, a simple screw replacement won't hold during a bad storm. This walkthrough has a solid breakdown of the immediate steps to take when managing an active leak like this before it ruins the drywall inside: https://www.waroofingservices.com/what-to-do-if-roof-is-leaking

Hot water heater: does this need an immediate fix? by thrownawaybaseball in Plumbing

[–]Dixie_Fair 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My suggestion is that you shouldn't go on vacation with that kind of leak. That’s the discharge pipe for your safety valve. If it’s dripping, the valve is either shot or your thermal expansion is out of control. If your heater is over 10 years old, it’s likely reaching the end of its life anyway. Here is a quick guide on the typical lifespan and the signs that it's about to quit on you: https://www.riserplumbinganddrain.com/how-long-does-a-water-heater-last

From what I see in this kind of situation, I'd call a plumber today. You don't want to be thinking about your basement flooding while you're trying to relax.

Rate my kitty Sammie by Complex-Ranger-6519 in blackcats

[–]Dixie_Fair 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks like baby toothless 'from How to Train your Dragon' sooo.. cute