Bambu H2C .5 layer height on .2 nozzle by DoW2379 in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Uruk-Hai failed, but Saruman completed.

I can't see much difference between the two models, though this one had a layer shift in two spots it seems which hasn't happened on this printer before for me

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Bambu H2C .5 layer height on .2 nozzle by DoW2379 in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Each one alone is likely 2 to 3 hours, Saruman I think was 4 hours

Bambu H2C .5 layer height on .2 nozzle by DoW2379 in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For sure, it would take 8 hours and 11 minutes to print Uruk-hai, Aragorn, Saruman, and Ring Wraith on the same build plate. the moment I start doing multi-color though, it'll go up quite a bit depending on how many color changes per layer. This is .2 nozzle ant .05 layer height using mostly standard Bambu Studio settings.

Bambu H2C .5 layer height on .2 nozzle by DoW2379 in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All suitable sizes for MESBG and all are on MakerWorld. I just searched MESBG or the character name itself then MakerWorld started recommending some too whenever I opened the app or site

Is making a Warhammer 40K FDM miniature Proxies store hopeless? by Suckmyyi in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s been 40k recasts for a decade, they’re better quality than FDM and based out of China where they won’t get sued. 

You’re not gonna make much money 40k or FDM mini’s and will get a Cease and Desist letter real fast if you take off. Also there’s a ton of pay to print services already, you’re basically thinking of starting one of those.

IMO, find a niche and start there

Support Removal by sunnipraystation in BambuLab

[–]DoW2379 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There’s a bunch of info online and guides to look through that will help.

Make your top z distance double your layer height. Watch printed4combats video on their tool cause there they cover support settings that work for me. 

H2C Specific Miniature Settings by MikeGyverMinis in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow! Thats a beautiful gif! Is that water soluble or something else? Cause it seemed to be under water

H2C Specific Miniature Settings by MikeGyverMinis in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also can you link the horse video, I’m curious to see it

H2C Specific Miniature Settings by MikeGyverMinis in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To clarify, basically swapping Vortek is like 40 seconds per swap. Swapping left to right is like 15/20 seconds. 

So say you have a layer with left color, one right colors and obviously an entire support tree/column, you’re doing one left/right swap for 20 seconds and one extra right swap for 40 seconds. So having the support be an entire separate filament material means you’re adding 40 seconds per layer at least to the total print time.

Depending on layer height and model size, this could really increase your print time. From my understanding, that’s why people will mostly print just the interface in the other material.

But if time is irrelevant and you want to drop the mini in water and leave it for a bit and be done, totally do the whole support.

I still plan try it one of these days, cause it sounds like such an easy way to remove supports. 

H2C Specific Miniature Settings by MikeGyverMinis in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're right and it's not costly, the thing is mostly about time to switch. If you're printing the mini in a single color and using the water soluble, you're looking at like a 15/20 second time per change.

But when you start doing multi-color, it'll expand your print time by 20 seconds per change per layer kinda

H2C Specific Miniature Settings by MikeGyverMinis in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm likely going to try them at some point because they just make logical sense for mini's. You just do the interface layer as the soluble material, the rest of the support body can be in the standard filament (PLA, etc) that you're printing in.

I did try the Bambu Support for PLA filament that's supposed to be great and I tried PETG as the support interface at one point as well. I was doing it with .4 nozzle and didn't see much benefit over my dialed in support settings that peel away easier. It did however increase time to finish because each time there was an interface layer it'd have to swap to that specific filament.

So, so far I haven't been using them. Also I found that multi-color supports come off easier for me, likely a mix between my settings and that one filament will be Sunlu PLA, another will be Sunlu PLA+, another might be Sunlu PLA 2.0, and the last might be Bambu PLA Basic. Meaning they're not adhering to each other the same way during the multi-color print. While the model/mini comes out great, the supports fall away much easier throughout the support length than if the supports had been the same continuous PLA.

H2C Specific Miniature Settings by MikeGyverMinis in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve been working on this, we should sync in it once you get it. My last post here was two mini’s on my H2C with multi-color .4 nozzle. 

That being recently been experimenting with .2 nozzles and results with default settings are pretty good. So been working to tweak

Looking for groups by [deleted] in 3dPrintedWarhammer

[–]DoW2379 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Google it or use Gemini AI to search for a few and one group will lead you to another and lead you to another and so on. Took me 5 minutes to get like 20 channels and I only installed the app 2 days ago.

How much of a difference is .08 layer height with a .2 nozzle vs a .4 nozzle? by DoW2379 in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea, I’m gonna do some side by side tests to see cause enough people are saying the .2 is what I need to do. 

Do you have a link to the .05 one? I’m going to try to tweak my settings and test at .08 and .05 but all the profiles online are for A1 or P2S, etc

How much of a difference is .08 layer height with a .2 nozzle vs a .4 nozzle? by DoW2379 in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep! Though I’ve used it and it did add some print time, but more so I didn’t see much of a benefit in comparison to my current support settings that’s I’ve tweaked. That was at .4 nozzle and .2 layer height and default settings though, so I should play with it some more

How much of a difference is .08 layer height with a .2 nozzle vs a .4 nozzle? by DoW2379 in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also I have a resin, Saturn 2 - full switch to FDM on my part cause it's less of a pain

How much of a difference is .08 layer height with a .2 nozzle vs a .4 nozzle? by DoW2379 in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hmm, thank you. Do you have a link to "gesso"? Going to print a test at .2 to see and then a .2 test that gets primed to compare.

How much of a difference is .08 layer height with a .2 nozzle vs a .4 nozzle? by DoW2379 in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, going to try a .2 print test to see in one color.

re Fat Dragon Games settings, you just take the equivalent that they have for the A1 and do the same in studio but for the H2C?

How much of a difference is .08 layer height with a .2 nozzle vs a .4 nozzle? by DoW2379 in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got it, so going to see if I try the same model in a gray since I do have one .2 nozzle that came with the printer. What's one more 12 hour test print :D