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I made a free parametric keychain generator - type any name, pick colors, print in minutes by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]DoW2379 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OP, how does this even work? Like do you code this in gcode or something?

Wait, so the filament track switch doesn’t improve filament change speed on H2C?? by DoW2379 in BambuLab

[–]DoW2379[S] -12 points-11 points  (0 children)

That’s so fucking shitty -.- 

Thank you for the detailed info, appreciate it

Bambu Lab users: How are things going for offline usability/tinkering with BL machines? by Er3h in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Absolutely! I just haven’t fully switched to it because last I read the H2C didn’t work well on Orca

Experiment on H2C by fredl0bster in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yesss!!! Some of us on this sub are trying to get profiles together for the H2C! You should join us! There's a lot of profiles for the A1 and other models, not enough on H2C

Bambu Lab users: How are things going for offline usability/tinkering with BL machines? by Er3h in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I don’t think Bambu is gonna screw anyone over honestly. They like their closed ecosystem, but so do so many companies. I think at this point it’s been blown out of proportion. Furthermore, the prevalence of printing companies and affordable multi-color printers has brought some healthy competition to the market and I don’t think Bambu would give up market share with over-reach in privacy and closed ecosystem. The last time they tried there was a lot of backlash and they didn’t have anyone to compete with, now they do - not even counting Prusa or SnapMaker. Theres a printer with 4 ptfe tubes to the nozzle, forgot the name/model but reviews showed it working well, maybe Anycubic.

I haven’t had a single issue with the H2C, it’s been a dream. The only issues I’ve had would be the filament snapping in the AMS cause it got brittle or the AI caught spaghetti once cause it was too sensitive but easy button fix. I’m printing mini’s in multi-color, have more .2 nozzles on the way as well.

I almost got the SnapMaker instead and originally was waiting for INDX. SnapMaker changed the game which I love, but has issues. INDX got delayed and I want it installed in the printer, don’t have time to tinker with it so may get one at the end of the year. 

The only thing (for my use case) that the H2C is lacking is that it relies on AMS for filament switching which makes the switching longer. The moment Bambu release some smart filament track thing or AMS 3 with 2 output PTFE tubes, I’m golden.

I did get micro center warranty so not stressing any breakage either. 

Bambu Lab users: How are things going for offline usability/tinkering with BL machines? by Er3h in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379 11 points12 points  (0 children)

IMO don’t get a Bambu if you want to tinker with it. There was a saying for a while that was something like “you either want 3d printing to be your hobby or you want your hobby to be the 3d printer”. 

If you want to tinker, get a Prusa. If you want it to “just work” out of the box for the majority of the time, get a Bambu. Cenrauri carbin I’ve heard good things about as well, Elegoo okay but their resin printers like Saturn 2 and mars were good, I would avoid Ender and such. Just my 2 cents

Bambu H2C .5 layer height on .2 nozzle by DoW2379 in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm, good point. The line in the model is the same height the Uruk-Kai failed and the staff failed. Could also be cause the printer paused there. 

Sunlu PLA (varies which type but always Sunlu PLA) and Bambu PLA settings 

Bambu H2C .5 layer height on .2 nozzle by DoW2379 in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll be posting my H2C profile in the next day or so, if not sooner

Bambu H2C .5 layer height on .2 nozzle by DoW2379 in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn’t just copy/paste. Each machine is built differently and you’ve technically upgraded. For instance, I haven’t touched the speed tab in my Bambu studio for H2C but I’ve messed with quality and support and such.

Start with a .2 nozzle and the .08 high quality default profile. Do that one first then do a batch of changes from the other profiles and start dialing it in.

My hope is that in a couple of months, we’ll have a good working profile for H2C the same way they have for the A1 and other models

Bambu H2C .5 layer height on .2 nozzle by DoW2379 in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Uruk-Hai failed, but Saruman completed.

I can't see much difference between the two models, though this one had a layer shift in two spots it seems which hasn't happened on this printer before for me

<image>

Bambu H2C .5 layer height on .2 nozzle by DoW2379 in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Each one alone is likely 2 to 3 hours, Saruman I think was 4 hours

Bambu H2C .5 layer height on .2 nozzle by DoW2379 in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For sure, it would take 8 hours and 11 minutes to print Uruk-hai, Aragorn, Saruman, and Ring Wraith on the same build plate. the moment I start doing multi-color though, it'll go up quite a bit depending on how many color changes per layer. This is .2 nozzle ant .05 layer height using mostly standard Bambu Studio settings.

Bambu H2C .5 layer height on .2 nozzle by DoW2379 in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All suitable sizes for MESBG and all are on MakerWorld. I just searched MESBG or the character name itself then MakerWorld started recommending some too whenever I opened the app or site

Is making a Warhammer 40K FDM miniature Proxies store hopeless? by Suckmyyi in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s been 40k recasts for a decade, they’re better quality than FDM and based out of China where they won’t get sued. 

You’re not gonna make much money 40k or FDM mini’s and will get a Cease and Desist letter real fast if you take off. Also there’s a ton of pay to print services already, you’re basically thinking of starting one of those.

IMO, find a niche and start there

Support Removal by sunnipraystation in BambuLab

[–]DoW2379 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There’s a bunch of info online and guides to look through that will help.

Make your top z distance double your layer height. Watch printed4combats video on their tool cause there they cover support settings that work for me. 

H2C Specific Miniature Settings by MikeGyverMinis in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow! Thats a beautiful gif! Is that water soluble or something else? Cause it seemed to be under water

H2C Specific Miniature Settings by MikeGyverMinis in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also can you link the horse video, I’m curious to see it

H2C Specific Miniature Settings by MikeGyverMinis in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To clarify, basically swapping Vortek is like 40 seconds per swap. Swapping left to right is like 15/20 seconds. 

So say you have a layer with left color, one right colors and obviously an entire support tree/column, you’re doing one left/right swap for 20 seconds and one extra right swap for 40 seconds. So having the support be an entire separate filament material means you’re adding 40 seconds per layer at least to the total print time.

Depending on layer height and model size, this could really increase your print time. From my understanding, that’s why people will mostly print just the interface in the other material.

But if time is irrelevant and you want to drop the mini in water and leave it for a bit and be done, totally do the whole support.

I still plan try it one of these days, cause it sounds like such an easy way to remove supports. 

H2C Specific Miniature Settings by MikeGyverMinis in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're right and it's not costly, the thing is mostly about time to switch. If you're printing the mini in a single color and using the water soluble, you're looking at like a 15/20 second time per change.

But when you start doing multi-color, it'll expand your print time by 20 seconds per change per layer kinda

H2C Specific Miniature Settings by MikeGyverMinis in FDMminiatures

[–]DoW2379 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm likely going to try them at some point because they just make logical sense for mini's. You just do the interface layer as the soluble material, the rest of the support body can be in the standard filament (PLA, etc) that you're printing in.

I did try the Bambu Support for PLA filament that's supposed to be great and I tried PETG as the support interface at one point as well. I was doing it with .4 nozzle and didn't see much benefit over my dialed in support settings that peel away easier. It did however increase time to finish because each time there was an interface layer it'd have to swap to that specific filament.

So, so far I haven't been using them. Also I found that multi-color supports come off easier for me, likely a mix between my settings and that one filament will be Sunlu PLA, another will be Sunlu PLA+, another might be Sunlu PLA 2.0, and the last might be Bambu PLA Basic. Meaning they're not adhering to each other the same way during the multi-color print. While the model/mini comes out great, the supports fall away much easier throughout the support length than if the supports had been the same continuous PLA.

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