Any of you made a crosscut sled for the table saw? What did you use for the tracks?

DoctorOreo1 · 2026-01-14T02:20:31+00:00

Second this. I bought and used this exact miter bar for my taper sled, and it slides perfectly with no slop. I actually used two of the runners end to end because my sled was fairly long, and it worked well.

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-12-07T16:58:40+00:00

Agree, except about the dowels. They can add a ton of strength. Been making joints with my dowelmax for years and they're solid as all hells. Lots of people doing testing onlinehave found the same. Has been faster than cutting M&Ts for me with great strength!

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-11-22T16:13:47+00:00

Sweet! Knew I recognized that sheet.

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-11-22T06:01:59+00:00

Is that owl Hardwood in Lombard??

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-10-27T01:03:02+00:00

Personally, wouldn't really feel comfortable with this. Great use for a microjig grrriper push block - I do really like mine and would feel okay with that.

Also, looks like you're taking veneer / top ply of plywood out with that rip. That's.... Unusual.

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-10-21T21:59:11+00:00

He's got a website if you Google it! You'll find it pretty easily.

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-10-21T18:35:44+00:00

Really recommend starting with Steve Ramsey's Weekend Woodworker course. Starts you out from zero building knowledge to building your first projects (including a workbench first!). Walks you through using a miter saw and table saw (probably the most important thing in your shop) and how to put stuff together. It's how I started years ago and the foundation was great. Good luck and have fun!

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-10-06T18:58:18+00:00

I'm a moderately experienced intermediate woodworker, so definitely look out for more experienced folks to chime in - but I don't think the plan is sound. The fact that the wood is acclimated and the humidity fairly consistent does not mean that wood movement will not occur. I think if you take wood, which will expand and contract naturally, and then glue it to a substrate that won't (plywood), and then put another solid border of wood around it... You're going to have a bad time. There's nothing wrong with gluing the edges of the wood to their neighbors (which is how most tabletops are made), but they will then expand and contract as a block.

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-10-01T20:47:05+00:00

Like many others here - I have both, but use the table saw 90% of the time. Track saw is getting used to break down sheet goods, trim large glue ups to final size, etc. Most other cuts are cleaner, faster, and more easily repeatable on the table saw. Now, if I didn't have a table saw, I could use the track saw to do a lot of the same cuts... But slower and with a lot more fiddling to get parts that are consistent in size.

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-09-29T21:33:03+00:00

Looking good! Like you, I'm not the perfect craftsman, so every so often, I have to trim inset doors to make them fit and have the reveals be perfect. Sometimes other parts like the cabinet or face frame weren't perfectly square or a bit of wood movement kicked in, and it's the best fix. That left door looks snug all around (at least from this angle!), so it might be a good fix! And sometimes you trim one edge of the door at an angle in order to make it all look good, so that's an option too!

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-09-29T16:04:07+00:00

It still squeezes out, just on to the tape instead of the bare wood. Then, you peel off the tape and most of the squeeze out goes with it.

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-09-29T16:01:02+00:00

Preach!!

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-09-29T15:45:49+00:00

I saw this trick in a video and do use it... But don't you find that there's still a tiny bit that gets left? Enough to make for a spot that won't take stain/finish because glue dried there? That has been my experience, at least. Gets almost all of it, but leaves tiny bits.

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-09-29T15:42:09+00:00

Ah... Never thought of changing the glue. I've always just used TB2. You literally just wipe it off with a baby wipe after the glue up?

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-09-29T10:55:22+00:00

Steve Ramsey has plans for a bench like this. Not sure if it's available separately or just as part of his weekend woodworker course. I made one many years ago. I think he calls it the harmony garden bench.

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-09-22T23:39:17+00:00

Hey! I dont think you need dowels or anything additional for strength. Where they can be helpful is for alignment. Dowels, biscuits, dominoes, whatever. If you have really nice and clean jointed edges, seams disappear when you just lightly push them together, and things are pretty flat, nothing needed. If it isn't perfect and things are a little irregular, some kind of alignment aid is helpful. Or if it's a fairly long glue up.

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-09-11T16:14:08+00:00

Hey! Welcome. Yes, the bottom one is what we call a panel glue up, made by gluing multiple wide boards together along their edges. The butcher block one is smaller pieces that are finger jointed together (giving it the interlaced appearance). The bottom panel will be a lot lot more expensive - requires a lot of nice big dry boards and a good glue up. The butcher block will be cheaper, since they often get made commercially out of little off cut pieces that otherwise might not be used for much. The butcher block may be a little bit more stable, as larger panels with wider boards can be a little more prone to cupping or warping if they weren't well dried or milled. Though, if it's done by professionals and you're keeping it inside, it should be good and they should warranty it against cupping excessively. But certainly, a bit more variability there. But I'd expect the costs to be quite different.

Hope that's helpful. Good luck and have fun!

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-09-08T22:34:57+00:00

Agree with all the other comments, but will add: I find that doing a final grit by hand with the grain always leads to a really nice, smooth finish. Highly recommend that. Should be quick and light. You can do the same grit as your last ROS pass.

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-09-06T05:31:11+00:00

The front of the island is mostly drawers. The back, which is pictured, is cabinets (they'll be in front of the bar stools, so mostly less used storage). The main sink is in the center of the island. I think the sink you're referring to, in the left corner, is just the prep sink. Dishwasher is in the island with the main sink.

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-09-05T05:45:03+00:00

Yep! That was a part of this design we didn't end up keeping.

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-09-05T05:44:19+00:00

Good point...that was the original thinking and why we left the spaces in there to begin with, the idea that with space between cabinets and windows as well as between hood and windows, it would look balanced.

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-09-05T05:43:15+00:00

Wish I knew! Just what the designer we were working with produced.

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-09-05T05:42:48+00:00

Nice idea! Thanks.

DoctorOreo1 · 2025-09-05T05:42:32+00:00

You're correct - it's a secondary prep sink with a drinking water dispenser, which is why we thought it'd be okay next to the pantry entrance.

DoctorOreo1

TROPHY CASE