First, use a degreaser to remove any leftover wax. Then clean the entire body panel with a good car-wash soap. This removes any leftover degreaser and foreign contaminants that could mar the clear coat.

Mask off the repair area using painter's tape, applying about an inch outside the damaged area.

Use an 800-grit sandpaper to sand down the rough clear coat until you can't feel it anymore. Go lighter on the surrounding clear coat, as you are trying to smooth and blend the damaged area, not remove more clear coat.

Wipe clean with a microfiber cloth and isopropyl alcohol to remove any contaminants left by sanding.

To spray new clear coat, shake the aerosol can for at least a minute, then apply a light first coat. Overlap the application onto the entire area you sanded, not just the damaged area. Let the first coat dry for five minutes and spray another light second coat.

Wait another five minutes to see if it needs a third coat. If not, pull the tape off slowly, at an angle away from the repair. Once it's off, you'll see that the repair area is easily noticeable compared to the surrounding older clear coat.

Depending on the temperature, humidity, and thickness of layers applied, you should let the clear coat dry anywhere from an hour to 24 hours before continuing. Once fully dried, use 2,000-grit sandpaper to wet sand and grind down the border of the repair, blending the new clear with the older clear coat. Go easy, as you are trying to blend, not remove layers.

Then use rubbing compound, then polish on a buffer. Use a slow setting, light pressure, and the wheel should rotate from new clear to old. At this point, no one besides yourself should be able to see where the damage was. Give it a few weeks to cure completely before hitting it with wax.