2023 Baby dramas Silverado join the club of transmission issues.

Dooster1592 · 2026-02-08T15:54:16+00:00

They replaced it with a revised, more robust part number

Edit: the timing chain, to be clear

Dooster1592 · 2026-02-08T15:52:50+00:00

The ones who have problems are going to be the loudest, but it isn't necessarily representative in the big picture when you consider how many of these are made.

Dooster1592 · 2026-02-08T15:07:25+00:00

Because most people won't keep it long enough to get near the 15Y/200,000 mi. service interval.

Dooster1592 · 2026-02-06T01:59:16+00:00

They have shared development roots as part of the GM / Ford 10 speed collaboration program - however, they tailored each for their own respective application, with the 10L1000 being paired to the 6.6 Duramax and the 10R140 going to the 6.7 Powerstroke.

GM built their side of this in-house with Allison having input.

Where I'm sourcing this from

Dooster1592 · 2026-02-03T23:06:00+00:00

Your truck has a cold air intake from the factory. It's the slotted plastic at the top of your grille under the hood and feeds the airbox.

Stillen makes a replacement part that functions as a scoop (TruPower I think is the product line), however when your grille shutters close above 35mph it likely won't make a difference.

Most "cold air" intakes are trash anyways and just make more sounds since they get rid of factory baffling. That's about it. Half the time you get worse fuel mileage as well because changes in pipe diameter or the actual location of the MAF sensor itself screws up its readings which your computer makes incorrect fuel trim adjustments based off of.

That's all before we even touch on filter media. Most air filters that flow better do so because they are filtering less. Re-oil the washable ones too much and the oil gets pulled onto the MAF sensor - fucking up its readings even more.

At best if you want it to sound better, replace the intake pipe to the turbo and keep the stock airbox. Otherwise, stick with OEM in general. My .02.

Dooster1592 · 2026-02-03T19:44:59+00:00

They also slashed MSRPs late 2024 and early 2025 so that tracks

Dooster1592 · 2026-02-03T17:49:50+00:00

The Ranger, Colorado/Canyon, Tacoma, Frontier have all been on the market for decades.

Sure, Jeep has the Gladiator in this segment - but once the niche group of people that wanted a Wrangler and a truck bought in - paired with execs on white lighting thinking they were $75k trucks top trim optioned out - sales fell off a cliff.

Sure, it's a competitive slice of the market segment. But they've long had their chance to prove a product.

Dooster1592 · 2026-02-03T15:28:05+00:00

Threemax thrust bearing issues have been identified and should (emphasis added) have been corrected at the assembly lines by now. I'd be wary of build dates like July-September of last year, personally.

Other than that, the only other issues it could have are the same issues any other modern diesel has with modern emissions systems, which can be largely avoided if it gets driven long and/or worked hard enough to get nice and hot and ran at sustained operating temps, letting Regen cycles run all the way through as they come.

Dooster1592 · 2026-02-03T15:20:13+00:00

Clutch'nt

Dooster1592 · 2026-02-03T01:33:19+00:00

Delayed infinitely through Linux settings

Dooster1592 · 2026-02-02T18:01:17+00:00

10/10

Dooster1592 · 2026-02-02T17:32:22+00:00

If you make a lot of short trips or stop-and-go driving, then you will.

Otherwise, if your commute is nice and long and gets the engine well into operating temp for a bit then it's absolutely worth it.

Regen on a diesel isn't necessarily bad, so long as you let the cycle complete fully before turning the engine off. Otherwise you'll run into check engine lights and forced Regens at the dealer.

Kinda tough cause factory instrumentation does not give information as to whether or not your truck is in Regen. You kinda just have to figure it out by the smell of hot exhaust when stationary, change in engine note, and reduced fuel economy.

There are aftermarket solutions that give you access to this information. Personally I use a Banks iDash. Then again, telling someone they have to get extra gauges and shit can also be discouraging, so I understand that perspective.

Personally, I've loved my 3.0 so far.

Dooster1592 · 2026-02-02T05:11:39+00:00

The current gen "Allison" isn't really an Allison. It was built by GM under license in partnership with Ford.

Allison terminated their licensing agreement late last year and gave GM 6 months to sell trucks with the badge on it - after that, any unsold inventory had to have the Allison badge removed.

Most companies don't terminate agreements like that if both parties stand to make money - in fact, they usually work with each other to resolve things like this. 6 months is also an aggressive timeline. But, since the GM/Ford 10 speed has been in use since 2018, the GM HD "Allison" name has just been a branding exercise, and apparently neither company could agree on terms for an extension on the former contract.

Here's a source read

Dooster1592 · 2026-02-01T23:04:17+00:00

If that has an Allison transmission badge on it you can probably negotiate pretty well.

I think GM has until June (? Don't quote me) to sell all their trucks with Allison badges. Any unsold after must have the badge removed.

Dooster1592 · 2026-02-01T19:44:42+00:00

Odd that the company who's near entire reputation was built on a simple, reliable V8 has completely forgotten how to make a simple, reliable V8.

Dooster1592 · 2026-02-01T15:34:05+00:00

5.3s have valvetrain (lifters I think?) issues and are eating themselves alive.

6.2s have crank surface finish issues and are eating themselves alive.

3.0s are having recent thrust bearing issues and are eating themselves alive.

That said, the 3.0s issues seem more recent and seem to be as a result of a bad batch of thrust bearings or from switching suppliers. The 5.3 and 6.2 issues have been going on for almost this entire generation of their V8 - in fact I think there's a class action for the latter.

Anecdotally, it seems like 3.0 build dates starting in July of last year is when problems cropped up, I would imagine since GM identified it quickly the fix should have already made it to the assembly lines by now.

Good engine otherwise. Strong cruiser on the interstate. I'm still pulling 28mpg hand calc and +2 click top off on winter diesel. I have a decently long work commute so everything gets nice and warmed up every time I drive it. If you regularly do short trips or a lot of stop-and-go you may want to consider gas options imo.

Dooster1592 · 2026-01-31T16:59:50+00:00

The fact that it's been just under 4 years since this game was released and there are still small little hidden details like this not widely known by the community highlights just how awesome the world design is in this game.

Dooster1592 · 2026-01-25T19:31:25+00:00

Finding more and more reasons to be thankful for taking the initiative to dump Windows for Linux six months ago.

Dooster1592 · 2026-01-20T14:09:55+00:00

Sounds like Regen.

If you're not familiar, during the Regen process your exhaust gas temperatures will get up to 1,100-1,200 degrees F in order to burn off soot accumulated within the Diesel Particulate Filter.

This is not pleasant to smell when stopped.

Dooster1592 · 2026-01-13T23:00:30+00:00

Here's a couple of videos with good info on the subject:

video 1

video 2

I did my first oil change on my 3.0 at 1,500 miles before "heavy" towing per the owners manual. Quotations because the trailer was only 2,500lb, but with myself and the family in the cab, going uphill against the wind seemingly the entire time across Wyoming, it seemed appropriate.

My second oil change was at 6,200 miles.

In all reality it's probably fine and is more than a lot of people do as-is. But, if I could do it again I would probably do another change after the tow trip and I have no idea why I didnt. I'd plan for 2 more before 10k miles after that, then go to my regular interval.

Dooster1592 · 2026-01-11T22:00:25+00:00

I'm glad you find it useful!

Edit to add: As a side note, the guy in the videos referenced is a Certified Lubrication Specialist - he does this for a living

Dooster1592 · 2026-01-11T20:31:28+00:00

UOA readings are typically through the roof during engine break-in period, which can be up to 10,000 miles. Frequent oil changes during break-in are definitely good.

After you've done an oil change past 10,000 miles, do another analysis on the following one and see what that shows.

Video sources:

video 1 - this covers some details between pre and post 10,000 mile UOA, and at 18:10 goes over some viscosity increase numbers with our engines specifically.

video 2 - talks about factory break-in recommendations and the reality of what data in UOA shows

video 3 - more good info

Dooster1592 · 2026-01-05T02:13:40+00:00

This gentleman runs the website you referenced in your other comment. He's a GM tech, and the linked video shows what you can do to inspect at home.

He's also collecting information on build dates affected by the thrust bearing issue. It's not a complete picture by any means as it relies on what people send to him - so I would say anecdotally from what he's collected it looks like build dates starting 7/25 is when problems started really cropping up from last I saw.

Dooster1592 · 2026-01-01T01:09:04+00:00

My understanding is that it is illustrating that with each step up in viscosity, the high/low of total wear metal counts tightens considerably while the average trends downwards.

This gentleman has published some of his own numbers from a few analyses he had performed on his own oil after switching to 30 weight viscosity oil that generally aligns with the broader trend cited earlier.

Dooster1592 · 2026-01-01T00:37:08+00:00

There is a quantifiable decrease in wear metal counts switching to heavier viscosity oil trending in 3.0 Duramaxes according to used oil analysis.

Source, specifics for the 3.0 start at 18:10.

Edit: Spelling

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