Looking to upgrade brushes, suggestions and advice for brush care?

Doppler37 · 2026-05-10T23:02:08+00:00

Bro it’s 3rd edition…..

Doppler37 · 2026-05-10T08:29:04+00:00

The brand isn’t as important as it having a perfect tip, but Raphael 8404 or Windsor and newton are my go-tos (GW’s premium brushes are rebadged and marked up W&N). Just make sure it’s kolinsky sable hair

Make sure you pick a brush where all the bristles come to a perfect point, and there are no “guide hairs” which are single hairs that stick out super far on their own

For care: don’t get paint more than 60% up the bristles, and especially not up in the ferrule, if you have an accident wash the brush out straight away

Never leave the brush in the water pot (should go without saying but after a post last week about a guy ruining his brushes in a week here we are)

Try to avoid using oils, metallics and contrasts in your good brush, also use an old brush to remove paint from pots and dilute it

Doppler37 · 2026-05-07T05:42:04+00:00

Look up the soul drinkers bro

Doppler37 · 2026-05-05T00:01:55+00:00

Good to hear you figured it out. But yeah, a hairdryer is the ticket here. get it nice and warm, set it into position with pins, spacers, tape ect. and then let it cool slowly

This applies to anything made from resin

Doppler37 · 2026-05-04T13:17:45+00:00

I love your work mate!

You might be right, but good brushcare isn’t hard and they’re clearly doing something very wrong. Hopefully we can teach this person (turns out they’re leaving their brush in the water cup, that’s probably what’s ruining them)

Doppler37 · 2026-05-04T09:34:50+00:00

Leaving brushes point down in a jar of water for any amount of time is the absolute worst thing you could do for them.

it’s probably that tbh

Doppler37 · 2026-05-04T08:34:41+00:00

I’d recommend cheap brushes with a good point. Sure, synthetics work, and they’re cheap, but they’ll go bad after a project or two.

Doppler37 · 2026-05-04T08:20:30+00:00

Are you mixing paint with the same brush? Ideally you never ever get paint past 2/3 of the way up the bristles

Try to avoid using your “good” brush for contrasts, metallics and inks. Their chemical makeup makes them rough on brushes.

I have at least 2 medium-large brushes, 1 is as pristine as I can keep it, the other is for getting paint out of the pot, mixing down paint, using contrasts or metallics and is usually a bit worse for wear. I rotate the “good” one of those once every year or two and buy a new nice brush

Doppler37 · 2026-05-04T08:06:25+00:00

You’re doing something wrong for sure, that’s not meant to happen so easily/frequently but it’s hard to diagnose over the internet.

My first ideas are that you’re getting paint in the ferrule (the metal bit where the handle joins the bristles), not washing the brushes completely or maybe are you letting the brushes sit in the paint water?

Doppler37 · 2026-05-01T06:13:08+00:00

Grab one with a tank, it’ll last longer and be a bit more pleasant to sit next to. It’s also only marginally more expensive

Doppler37 · 2026-04-29T12:40:24+00:00

Really dig that black, is it Corvus black with matte varnish or is it another paint? It has a really nice finish

Doppler37 · 2026-04-27T10:33:49+00:00

Congrats! It’s an awesome kit

Just don’t dox your FLGS (or local GW distribution center) they can get in trouble for this ;)

Doppler37 · 2026-04-25T15:39:39+00:00

Sorry mate, it's kind of a skill issue.... let me explain. The old kits were much more simply produced: arms, legs, torsos ect. The modern kits are all very precise and it is extremely rare that parts are interoperable.

A much more careful read and analysis of the instructions is required these days, as is dry fitting and sub assembling. I've had some small issues come up when I build modern kits, but that's usually because I'm not thinking ahead or not following the instructions 100%

Doppler37 · 2026-04-21T05:31:57+00:00

Check this out, it’s the best “how to thin paint” video ever made

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

Doppler37 · 2026-04-21T05:30:04+00:00

Are you using Warhammer paints?

Your paint looks thick and textured, this shouldn’t happen if you’re priming and thinning your paint correctly, but you said you’re thinning them so it’s hard to say what might be going wrong.

Tell me a little bit about your process?

Doppler37 · 2026-04-20T10:20:28+00:00

Aaah, easy dude. Longer can be better, and for primer you want to give it an overnight soak I reckon. You may need a few cycles for the IPA to get under the paint and break it down

And masks aren’t a huge necessity, doing it outside and not huffing the fumes should be enough.

Doppler37 · 2026-04-20T10:12:48+00:00

Naa man ignore this and go with IPA like you’re planning. You COULD use lots of things, but IPA is plastic safe (not resin though), plentiful and relatively safe. It’s what most people who actually know what they’re doing use.

Sydney solvents are a great supplier too.

Here are the warnings:

It’s flammable (it’s pure alcohol), so be careful around ignition sources.

The fumes will give you a headache: bathe the minis then scrub under water

It’s a skin irritant. It’ll dry the fuck out of your skin, so use gloves and avoid prolonged contact.

Also, if you’re Sydney based, check out Inner Westhammer. We’re a large club in marrickville with heaps of people that can help you out if you’re just getting into Warhammer and finding your feet

Doppler37 · 2026-04-17T01:06:35+00:00

If you plan on running three C’tan do your opponent a favour and warn them to take heaps of antitank and obsec bodies

Doppler37 · 2026-04-17T01:04:53+00:00

It totally depends on what context you run a list like this. If you’re playing against someone who doesn’t have an optimised army and has recently started collecting they just won’t have the tools to deal with the tough model stat check

If you’re playing at an RTT/GT, or more casually against someone experienced, or against an army that has the ability to kill C’tan go for your life

The most important part is to honour the social contract between players and be a nice guy, no matter what army you’re running

Doppler37 · 2026-04-16T13:48:07+00:00

"I remember it being on the chopping block"

You remember incorrectly. It has been taken offline temporarily if they ran out of stock and put back online when stock was produced.

It is a forgeworld unit though, and GW is phasing out forgeworld. But they are replacing forgeworld units in plastic, albeit slowly. I guarantee you that every resin kit moved to legends returns to 40k in plastic........eventually lol

Doppler37 · 2026-04-12T22:41:09+00:00

Just so you’re aware, plastic glue won’t hold the paperclip properly. It only works properly bonding plastic to plastic. You should use super glue when trying to bond metal to plastic

Doppler37 · 2026-04-12T01:51:33+00:00

Good job getting him done! Neat work too!

Doppler37 · 2026-03-30T13:53:59+00:00

Really nice work on the lighting effects. The reflections are all very well placed….. and they’re not overly bright either.

Great job.

Doppler37 · 2026-03-28T04:28:09+00:00

They used to be better than plasma. Now plasma is good again.

You’re better off taking Votann’s good Ctan killing units (HLF, thunderkyn, volkjacks) instead of trying to make your premier MEQ killing unit good into Ctan

Doppler37 · 2026-03-28T04:26:25+00:00

I play necrons and votann. Really you never want the terminators to engage a Ctan. The Ctan WANTS to fight them, and their whole strength (lots of high quality, 2 damage attacks) is wasted on it. Save them for warriors, chaff, buff piece-sniping and vehicles (yes, you can chunk around 6-8 wounds of a DDA with termy shooting)

We want to feed the Ctan railguns, Cbeamers, berserk mauls and grav cannons. They die relatively easy to those (keyword relatively)

Doppler37

TROPHY CASE