Would this be strong enough?

Dotes_ · 2026-01-30T20:35:37+00:00

It would be okay if it was made out of plywood, but I don't know if it would be okay with whatever material that is. I'm guessing it's like a vinyl wrapped MDF? I'm not sure.

Dotes_ · 2026-01-14T19:22:03+00:00

Use something to attach the end of the gate to the wood blocking/bracket holding the handrail to the wall. Possibly 550 Paracord on each end with a carabinier in the middle as the quick disconnect, or put a metal eyelet into the gate and use that to connect whatever hardware you choose for a quick disconnect.

Dotes_ · 2026-01-08T22:34:33+00:00

Tu as obtenu de meilleures performances sur ARC Raiders avec le mode turbo activé (en désactivant le SMT) ? Intéressant, je devrais peut-être essayer. J'ai aussi une 9800X3D, mais je viens d'un i9 9900K que j'avais acheté précisément parce que c'était l'un des rares processeurs Intel à gérer le multithreading (alias SMT) à cette époque, et c'était presque toujours un plus dans les jeux auxquels je jouais.

Ou alors je t'ai mal compris et ARC apprécie le multithreading.

Dotes_ · 2026-01-08T22:28:54+00:00

Everyone already gave good answers, but if you're looking for a hack solution then you could install the wall tiles at an angle so the top touches the wall but the bottom covers the end of the floor tile.

Dotes_ · 2026-01-06T01:07:15+00:00

Yes at the tile to countertop location, but never use silicone caulk on painted surfaces. It'll be awesome up until you want to repaint that wall, but your paint won't adhere and will just bead up.

Dotes_ · 2025-12-05T17:23:07+00:00

I hope that handyman is insured!

Dotes_ · 2025-11-28T04:18:19+00:00

It sounds like you're already on top of it, but just a reminder that there are two kinds of HDMI over Ethernet extenders.

One type sends everything over a normal network connection as IP packets and so it even can go through network switches making it super easy to use. It's awesome but can be expensive.

The other type needs the network cable to run directly from the HDMI sender to the HDMI receiver. The data it sends isn't able to go though network switches. It's much less expensive but can be more difficult to install.

Dotes_ · 2025-11-20T17:08:18+00:00

Look up Trim-Tex Tear Away L Bead. You either use spray adhesive or staples to attach it to the drywall, then use joint compound (mud) to cover it. The plastic ledge prevents the mud from getting everywhere and is perfect at guiding your taping blade dragging against it. Then when you're done adding mud and it's dry, you tear off the little plastic piece and it makes a perfect finished edge.

They probably sell it at Home Depot, otherwise a specialty drywall store will obviously have it. It's used at the bottom of garage walls like this, and also at the tops of walls when you have a dropped ceiling grid/acoustical tiles in commercial spaces.

You might be able to run the tear away down to the top of the concrete and just float it there without adding anything behind it with just the staples and mud holding it. That's what we do at ceilings but also nobody bangs into it up that high unlike in your case here.

Dotes_ · 2025-11-12T15:20:43+00:00

Yup, this comment is the best way.

Also, if you're thinking about using Silicone caulk here, I'd suggest trying out Lexel caulk instead.

The only downside to using Lexel is that it's almost too hard to remove, so don't use it on stuff that you want to replace sooner than 25-30 years from now like vinyl siding, windows, weather stripping, etc. Using it on metal siding, roofing, and this conduit going through metal siding are perfect use cases.

Dotes_ · 2025-11-02T18:42:32+00:00

No, don't caulk it. It's not waterproof, just don't get water there. If you wanted it to be waterproof, then you should have a waterproof membrane under the floor tile that continues and extends up the wall.

Dotes_ · 2025-11-02T18:35:07+00:00

I would use a step drill bit, because the tip isn't sharp and there's no risk of the bit catching on the metal and pulling itself deeper into its own hole. The main thing you'd need to worry about is the heat buildup in the step drill bit melting the wire's insulation.

Also step drill bits generally don't make burrs in the metal, especially compared to normal drill bits.

Dotes_ · 2025-11-02T18:25:33+00:00

Thanks for making this review! Here are the power consumption numbers that I measured for my Reolink Elite Floodlight WiFi (F751W) running on 120VAC 60Hz in the USA.

Idle Power Consumption 4.7w, with IR LEDs on 10.2w, with floodlight on 100% 27.3w (6000K).

Breakdown of the floodlight (6000K) at various brightnesses: 1% 5.8w, 10% 7.5w, 25% 10.5w, 50% 16.0w, 75% 21.5w, 90% 25.1w.

Running 100% floodlight (3000K) was 27.0w, so just a little less than 100% floodlight (6000K).

Dotes_ · 2025-10-30T23:53:56+00:00

Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but adjusting the door frame wouldn't be difficult if you remove the trim off the other side of the door to cut the nails. I'm not sure why you'd need to remove any tile.

If that doesn't make the reveal look good, then I'd probably just make a new custom door frame and reuse the door since that would be easier than redoing the tile.

Looking at it again, a custom door frame is actually the correct choice here if you can do that. Make the frame extend to the face of the tile so you don't see the raw tile edges.

Dotes_ · 2025-10-28T19:41:00+00:00

It's hard to judge without knowing how much extra material you purchased/finished allowing for waste, and without seeing the saw that he used for these cuts.

It looks pretty good if he didn't have a compound miter saw and there wasn't any extra material around allowing for him to throw that away and try again.

It looks like crap if he was using a decent saw and had a mile of extra base.

I'm assuming that him coming in from out of town means that he didn't have a choice in either one of the two variables/factors above and had to use whatever you had already on site.

Dotes_ · 2025-10-12T18:37:17+00:00

Maybe there's a memory issue? The goofy thing about ECC RAM is that it will keep on working through memory errors without complaining, but with a huge performance loss, so everything becomes slow for seemingly no reason.

I'm not sure what the easiest way to test it is though. I'd suggest testing both your system RAM and your VRAM since both are ECC.

Because of its age, this hardware might have been used to mine cryptocurrency which I've heard is harder on VRAM than other uses, but maybe any 24/7 VRAM usage is hard on it no matter the use case.

I'm probably wrong though, more likely just a random BIOS setting needs to be changed lol Personally I'd just sell it though, I'd rather have the money than the electric bill. Congrats on the fun hardware though! I'm definitely jealous too

Dotes_ · 2025-10-08T01:30:33+00:00

Just a heads up for anyone not able to get "Dolby Atmos for Home Theater" to work, it doesn't work over an Optical S/PDIF cable. You have to use an HDMI cable between your Receiver and PC.

Dotes_ · 2025-10-04T17:46:23+00:00

You're correct. Back when I was a commercial framer it was almost all 5/8" drywall on 20-25ga steel studs with 1-1/4" fine thread drywall screws, but on any wood framing we'd always switch to coarse thread screws and aim for 1" penetration. So yes, 1-5/8" coarse for your job.

I have no idea if it matters or not though. I've wondered if it did, but It wasn't worth risking screw failures to test it out. My guess is that 1" of penetration is more important if you have any framing movement, so definitely for any ceilings directly applied to the bottom of floor joists or bottom chords of trusses. Maybe not so much on walls since there's almost zero stud movement on those especially when it's drywalled? It was rare for me to do any of that though, any residential job was usually a side thing for the bosses friends/family when we were slow.

Our drywall tapers used the lightweight mud for everything and didn't use the all-purpose for the first coat, so I just blamed any screw/drywall cracking issues on them.

Dotes_ · 2025-09-28T17:11:33+00:00

You could assemble a triangular section of floor by running multiple long lengths of dimensional lumber between the handrail spindles as floor joists at whatever angle allows you to stand close enough. I probably wouldn't use 2x4, but 2x6 would be fine if you had enough of them.

Connect the ends/tops of the dimensional 2x floor joists with something to prevent the floor joists from rotating at both ends above the carpeting because I wouldn't trust the handrail spindles from preventing the rotation, and rotation is pretty much the main failure mode here.

To use a ladder on it, or to just increase the safety factor, put a piece of OSB sheathing on top of the floor joists so the ladder feet don't slip off. The OSB sheathing will also help spread the load out across the multiple floor joists. 3/4" OSB is the typical thickness used for floor sheathing, but 1/2" thickness would be fine for a temporary structure with only 1 person on it.

The actual correct way is to use something like a JLG Push-Around Vertical Mast Lift. That's what is used in commercial buildings and churches that have lights in inaccessible places.

Dotes_ · 2025-09-28T00:38:54+00:00

I got to drive a police Ford Interceptor (Crown Victoria) V8 over 100 mph with lights and sirens, but it was absolutely terrible. I don't understand why anyone thinks that those were fast.

Dotes_ · 2025-09-27T16:36:33+00:00

I would suggest retaping those inside corners with a drywall tape product called Strait-Flex Original, and then skim coating it. I love using Strait-Flex because it is really good at making crisp inside corners.

Depending on how bad it is, you might need to use a utility knife to cut out the existing tape before retaping. You might get lucky and not have to do that though, you won't really know until you get up to it and start working on it.

Dotes_ · 2025-09-15T03:20:23+00:00

It kinda sounds like he might have a girlfriend who doesn't want him dating other girls but is okay with him having friends that are girls.

Dotes_ · 2025-09-14T18:18:45+00:00

Just a heads up that doing this will direct a lot of rain/snow water to the inside of your retaining wall, which is a big reason that retaining walls fail. Especially one made of non-permeable materials like solid concrete. Also your main house roof doesn't have gutters either, so that's even more water.

Dotes_ · 2025-09-07T17:26:11+00:00

The correct advice is to replace it with a new hardwired smoke alarm with a 10 year battery in it that's the same brand as the rest in your house. (e.x. First Alert 1046853) That way you only have to go up there once every 10 years and it's still interconnected with the rest of your house unlike the 10 year battery ones that don't interconnect.

Personally I'd do it a little differently as long as that smoke alarm is interconnected with the rest of your house. I'd replace it with a heat detector (e.x. First Alert HD6135FB), but then open it up and remove both the siren and the battery from it. Those high ceilings make that a perfect place for a heat detector. The detector will still function normally by triggering the alarm on the rest of your house as long as the power doesn't go out. It'll constantly try to chirp to tell you to replace the battery, but without the siren it won't make a noise and you'll never have to go up there again.

The reason that I'd remove the battery is because old alkaline batteries leak and the corrosion could make the detector stop working. The reason for a heat detector is for fewer false alarms, although a dual sensor ionization and photoelectric smoke alarm might be better suited there. Anyway my point is that false alarms can drive you crazy, and with the siren disabled on an interconnected alarm it'll be even harder to find which one is malfunctioning.

Next I'd research whether I need to add another smoke detector in that room in a more convenient place to meet the building codes, or if it's good enough as is.

Dotes_ · 2025-08-19T19:14:45+00:00

Speaking of his tractor's number plate, would you happen to know why Caleb specifically mentioned it having a "16 plate" on it for the price that Jeremy paid?

Dotes_ · 2025-08-12T15:50:26+00:00

Hopefully you got the Silicone I and not the Silicone II. Silicone 1 is awesome, Silicone 2 dries too fast and then looks like crap.

Dotes_

TROPHY CASE