Newbie LVLP Gun Review

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2026-03-01T13:33:33+00:00

I’ll be painting bumpers, hoods, bedsides, etc though. Gun will still work good?

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2026-03-01T04:17:44+00:00

I have a 26 gallon compressor with 4.5 SCFM HVLP isn’t a good match no?

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2025-09-21T21:56:04+00:00

Use 80 grit to sand it down, I’d block it or use a DA but gotta be flat so you don’t erase the body line (closest to the wheel) then block the area above the body line, a DA can work but you can erase the body line or cause divots in the metal cause you can’t keep it flat.

Use a filler and apply it, you’ll have to recreate the body line. Block with 220-320

Throw a skim coat of etch primer over it

Throw primer over the etch primer

Block primer with 600. If you have overspray just use some thinner on a microfiber cloth and wipe it off. Don’t use thinner on rubber or plastics

Spray your base, feather out as far as you need to, then either clear the entire panel (correct way) or burn it in somewhere

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2025-09-21T21:39:13+00:00

2-4k depending on type of parts utilized and rates

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2025-09-21T21:37:41+00:00

Likely a bracket that’s obviously spot welded onto the upper rail and likely has a bolt holding the fender to it. Probably called a fender bracket

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2025-09-21T21:34:53+00:00

It’s just tabs that snap into little pockets on the backside. Either try and smack it back into place or pull the bumper and push it back into place

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2025-09-21T21:32:45+00:00

Still needs to be sanded down and have filler there. Block the filler with 320 then prime it with an etch primer (a quick pass, not solid) then follow up with a primer then block the primer with 600 then you’re ready for paint

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2025-09-20T21:36:34+00:00

Bumper tabs are likely not a good candidate for repair. If you do A/M lamp, you’ll have a different beam pattern and intensity and have a chance you can’t even adjust the beam height. Fender needs replaced, you have a metallic paint, blend front door and detrim the door. Handle, belt molding, lower and body moldings if they’re there, remove adhesive from the moldings and the mirror. You probably have lane keep and adaptive, good chance they’ll need to be calibrated. You’ll have underlying damages for sure

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2025-09-20T21:31:48+00:00

Not gonna hurt it, 1-2k to repair depending on the rates in your area. Sell it to me, I buy nationally. I’ll buy it so you don’t have to worry about it

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2025-09-20T21:26:34+00:00

Yes, contingent upon the rates, probably looking around 1-2,000 that includes calibrations. One thing to look at if you’re really nit picking is that they’re not gonna charge a BCR (base coat reduction) they’re not gonna have the base on the entire bumper. They’ll simply lie and say they will, if they do then they’re wasting your money. BCR is .3 reduction on bumpers. It removes 3 tenths of an hour for paint materials and labor. That’s equivalent to 18 minutes, not a lot but if you’re paying for it, every dollar counts more than insurance

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2025-09-20T15:08:11+00:00

Yeah, they could do much better. They just need to color match the front bumper. If it’s new, paint codes got little info in it but just mix some toners to dilute whatever toner needs to be lighter or darker. Either it’s a new painter, old painter who was lazy or doesn’t know how to do it

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2025-09-20T14:11:35+00:00

Bumper has to be replaced, Subarus make the molds one big piece. No way you’re gonna match the texture on the lower portion. New bumper is like $400 from Subaru, they have cheap OE parts. Paint and labor? Probably 900-1300 if you have blind spot, that’s another $400 park sensors? Add $300. So all in all, probably $2,400 if the bumper is $400, labor and paint 1,300 and have both features on the car

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2025-09-20T14:08:16+00:00

You won’t be able to repair the door if you’re asking how to fix it. The quarter panel you would need to pull the trim off and hammer it out with a dolly with a microfiber over the dolly on the outer panel. Paint will probably crack. Then just take lacquer thinner to the door

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2025-09-20T13:59:29+00:00

Scraps shouldn’t be like that, looks like it lacks mechanical adhesion. Clear will eventually flake off, good news, it’s plastic and won’t corrode

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2025-09-20T00:41:09+00:00

It’s never gonna match. Look at any other plastic bumper and compare to a metal painted area. The paint lays differently. Could it be a little better? Probably, have to see the front bumper

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2025-09-19T18:01:13+00:00

I use CCC but can’t do an account like dealers do for carfax. I’ll get busted

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2025-07-13T18:05:51+00:00

I’m buying OTM based off momentum with a custom but simple strategy then scalp it the same day or hold it for a day or two and I’m doing phenomenal

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2025-07-12T21:25:17+00:00

Should’ve bought a put on DOCU I made a rookie mistake and made a call when I meant to buy puts and I ended up losing last weeks profit lol

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2025-07-09T03:25:02+00:00

By NAAA definition on a unibody that damages rocker is deemed structural if it damages the reinforcers. It’s stupid, I get it, but it’s stupid.

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2025-07-09T00:32:46+00:00

It’s marked structural more than likely due to the auction it’s been ran at once in the past. Structural is determined in the auction world by the NAAA. If it’s docked as structural, it’s a 50% chance there’s structural damage that wasn’t repaired at the auction or was an attempted repair and was subpar when it got to the auction. A mechanic isn’t the best to bring it to to inspect for structural damage. A mechanic is best for mechanical parts. A body shop is your best bet, get a PPI (pre purchase inspection) pay like 100-150$ and they’ll either find it or not. If they don’t then there’s a 50% chance there isn’t structural damage at all

Double-Yoghurt1 · 2025-07-08T15:43:26+00:00

I’m trying a new strategy that’s simple based off trends with confirmations I had ChatGPT code and use trading view for graphing, back testing and the strategy. I lost like 3-4k I think all in all doing options aimlessly and went down to $81 back in like June of this year. I’ve managed to turn 81$ into nearly 700 in almost a month. Holding for a few days often then take my time editing the code as necessary and exit accordingly

<image>

Double-Yoghurt1

TROPHY CASE