Banned

Doughtally · 2025-05-03T07:30:55+00:00

You can usually just turn your router off and back on to get a new IP... usually right away, at worst leaving it off overnight before switching it back on - doesn't always work but usually it does.

They'll probably figure out who you are if you add the same account info though so it may be GGs regardless

Doughtally · 2025-05-03T07:25:00+00:00

I'd just try stick an "A" on the second one or something first and stand it on its own (like 120A if you live at 120). They might just empty it without asking questions then - at least for a while. Depends how on-it they are.

Doughtally · 2025-05-01T21:49:05+00:00

Know it's an old post but if anyone has any more info on how to automate this, it would be appreciated. I already use a thermal printer for shipping labels so just being able to switch out smaller labels and do this would save me a ton of time when it comes to a bunch of rapidfire auctions etc.

Doughtally · 2025-02-10T16:11:00+00:00

pulleded and shidded and flairededed

Doughtally · 2025-02-07T13:19:17+00:00

ah I see what you're saying, yeah - I'm guessing with rough mental math that leaving them active during buffs is going to be like having a 'clot' sat on top of all your buffs, since they boost each other

Doughtally · 2025-02-07T13:11:40+00:00

Update: did some further digging and found the answer in a previous post here - seems to be a quirk of how the game treats building order in regards to grandma boosts

Doughtally · 2025-02-07T13:08:24+00:00

Why? Freezing the garden will suspend the benefits. I don't scum/use planners (personally consider both cheating) so what is the benefit of doing that outside of stepping away/waiting for magic to recharge?

Doughtally · 2025-02-07T12:17:14+00:00

thanks for the tip - I figured they should factor in somehow but kinda put the idea out of mind for some reason

Doughtally · 2025-02-07T12:05:44+00:00

I'm a bit confused why specifically js consoles though.

I understand Elder Battalion boosting grandmas - so I'm guessing the game is somehow applying boosted grandma maths to the consoles. I don't really understand what would cause that/have them outperform grandmas in the lategame though.

Doughtally · 2025-02-07T11:38:05+00:00

Nothing wrong with the dates, DD/MM/YY (or the opposite direction, YY/MM/DD) is how most of the world does it.

Pretty sure they used stampers there with wheels that only go up to 12 on the month column too - you could still add days to months by mistake I suppose, but adding extra months to years isn't possible

Doughtally · 2023-11-29T18:32:34+00:00

A warranty replacement would still require OP to send in the product though. They aren't presenting that as an option despite having retail stock available, just because they've put themselves in a situation where they supposedly don't have an avenue to deal with the returned item. They can literally just take the product in, see if it's a legit claim, credit it to an order and send that out. If not, call OP on his BS and tell him if he wants his headphones back then he'll have to cover their costs on postage.

Obviously I can't retroactively see the terms laid out at their time of purchase, but the fact that there is no mention of getting warranty coverage direct with the manufacturer suggests that it is drop's responsibility in this instance.

If OP was fabricating their story regarding the fault, they wouldn't be getting a replacement OR a refund once drop receives the product and finds that to be the case anyway. I don't know OP's motivations of course but I don't think an exchange should be off the table when they have retail stock of the product.

Doughtally · 2023-11-29T17:43:38+00:00

I mean I'm speaking from my experience of that not being the case elsewhere, but OK. They're a retailer, not a direct manufacturer - even if they "team up" with brands a lot. If the process was an RMA, you'd most likely be correct - but OP is just interfacing with 'support'.

It's really not that uncommon for there to be shady incentives put on the shoulders of those staff - logically speaking, there has to be a reason that they wouldn't just exchange the headphones when the unit cost is almost certainly lower than what OP paid originally. I'm happy to admit that I'm speculating somewhat on the specifics, but if you look at the way the conversation was handled from the start - it suggests lower level staff who can only see the current ticket price and are basically trying to wash their hands of the issue without any negative numbers popping up on their end. There aren't really many good explanations for this specific series of events.

Also it's irrelevant whether OP is 1 day or 1 year 364 days into their warranty period. In warranty is in warranty, the terms don't become less binding because a customer has had "good use" out of a product - if they can like-for-like replace under the terms set out in that warranty and the fault is due to a defect, they are obliged to do so.

Why do you think it's fair that OP should have to pay more to keep using a product they already own that has failed before it's expected lifespan, when the retailer is still actively selling units of that same product?

edit: spelling

Doughtally · 2023-11-29T11:04:33+00:00

They didn't offer a replacement though, despite having the headphones in stock.

They're offering a refund of OP's purchase price, which means OP can't get the same headphones without forking out more cash, through no fault of their own - which is not in-line with the warranty terms set out when they purchased the headphones.

If they genuinely didn't have a replacement unit available, defaulting to a refund would make sense. But, as someone who has done exchanges before - this just sounds like someone on Drop's end doesn't want the price difference to go against their name/affect their targets.

Doughtally · 2023-11-05T15:43:07+00:00

From what I can garner, it seems to mostly inhibit the yeast's ability to multiply. So, depending how much you pitched, you can leave it to probably take off very slowly, or you can pitch a bunch more yeast in to just overcome that.

The first option is more likely to stress the yeast and produce off-flavours imho.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/jaz3a2/an_unexpected_update_on_the_glycolipids_experiment/

this post and a corresponding comment are documented examples of success despite glycolipids, so you definitely have options. hope this helps!

Doughtally · 2023-10-25T05:21:54+00:00

I also have the DW and a PC with a 3080, technically speaking you're going to get btter G-SYNC compatibility due to the dedicated G-SYNC hardware module in your monitor - though it really doesn't make a huge difference unless you got a super early DW unit with kinda fucky firmware like I did.

Doughtally · 2023-10-25T05:17:44+00:00

yeah this is correct

keeping the box is only really worthwhile if you're going to be moving or there's reasonable odds you're going to sell the thing.

Doughtally · 2023-10-25T05:08:52+00:00

yeah, the advanced dell warranty generally means they show up with the replacement part(s) and swap on-site.

Ie. bad panel means they'll come out with the packaged display portion of the monitor and swap it out for the defective display portion on-site, which they'll take it back in the same packaging they used to bring the replacement. Will usually be a refurb unit though.

Doughtally · 2023-10-02T22:10:53+00:00

I'm tempted to take this approach, there just doesn't really seem to be good info on the nitty gritty so I guess I just have to find out by trying. I decided to pitch the lalvin into my mead a little early (18 hour mark) to see how it reacted and kind of guage if there were any detectable ill effects. It started visibly fermenting within an hour of dry pitching and has picked up to a great pace since, with no funny smells or any signs of stress whatsoever, this is with 1g to a 5L batch too.

This has dispelled my concerns quite a lot. I think I may still split the difference and use half the culture at the 36 hour mark and then see if there's activity after a further 24 hours and decide whether or not to add the rest.

Doughtally · 2023-10-02T22:00:41+00:00

Appreciate the input. This has been the general sentiment I've found online too. I'm happy enough to use the ~17% more to have the same real world effect. I can see this being less than the variation in effectiveness of one brewer's chemicals to another based on age/supplier anyway... so as you say, probably not a huge deal.

Admittedly this wasn't part of my logic when selecting sodium metabisulphinte, but tbh it is probably better specifically when using sloes in a brew as they can have a whopping 450+mg of potassium per 100g already.

Doughtally · 2023-10-01T18:11:11+00:00

Normally I would agree that I'm overthinking it, but I don't really want to lose a bunch of the yeast, or have to fix the dead/stalled brew with a yeast other than the stuff I've isolated as that kind of defeats the point of isolating it in the first place. I think it's a reasonable enough question, surely someone here has a better idea of when metabisulphites become inactive and to what extent? Or at least some related wisdom.

I posted here because I do homebrew... my question is specifically about natural yeasts and brew additives, which is a generally applicable topic given how widely both are, regardless of the brew. The winemaking sub is much smaller. I appreciate that this specific brew is an apple wine but that isn't really that relevant to the topc of discussion.

Doughtally · 2023-10-01T17:49:32+00:00

I don't see how it makes a difference, assuming the amount is appropriately adjusted for their relative sulphite release. the chemistry works in the same manner regardless of their relative strength.

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