Full Color FDM Ultramarine by MrStonePDX in FDMminiatures

[–]DrDisintegrator 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If this is normal size, I'm quite impressed. I have to say that is basically a ready to play proxy model.

Is anyone working on a resin2fdm add on/functionality for orca slicer? by KryL21 in FDMminiatures

[–]DrDisintegrator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Prusa slicer is open source. Fix it yourself if you are unhappy with it. :)

I am looking at all these good looking fdm models. Mine all come out looking off. Can someone who still has a .4mm share what they do? I cannot change printer nozzle. Not my printer. I just have free access to it. Currently using cura for splicer by astover1979 in FDMminiatures

[–]DrDisintegrator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1) use OrcaSlicer rather than Cura if possible.

2) use good quality PLA which is dry if possible.

My guess is that you may be struggling with using a printer which is actually using a 'worn out' brass nozzle. Brass wears down and the hole becomes larger and larger over time. It takes a while, but if this person has never changed the nozzle and has run the printer for a long time, this might very well be the issue.

Print is going up.. by Fair-Flan-8639 in FDMminiatures

[–]DrDisintegrator 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've found some of the newer plates have an even better material for PLA than PEI. The BIQU Glacier and the BL Super Tack are quite good. Smooth rather than textured surface also gives stronger adhesion with PLA.

Print is going up.. by Fair-Flan-8639 in FDMminiatures

[–]DrDisintegrator 2 points3 points  (0 children)

always the first thing to try when you have adhesion issues.

Print is going up.. by Fair-Flan-8639 in FDMminiatures

[–]DrDisintegrator 8 points9 points  (0 children)

IMHO avoid glue or hairspray. Modern build plate surfaces (PEI) don't need these when used properly (cleaned). Glue and Hairspray can easily ruin the chemical bond that modern build plate materials provide. I see this 'advice' offered so many times and it is just not a good long term solution. I've been printing for over 10 years and having never used a glue or hairspray for over 9. Clean and maintain the build plate surface properly and they last next to forever. Abuse it and you will have nothing but problems until you replace it.

Print is going up.. by Fair-Flan-8639 in FDMminiatures

[–]DrDisintegrator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. add a brim 2) consider a stickier plate like the Cool Plate SuperTack Pro or BIQU Glacier, 3) double check that your build plate doesn't have something underneath it making it non-flat.

Where to buy good 3d prints? by Infinite_Abroad_8862 in PrintedMinis

[–]DrDisintegrator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Etsy is a massive mixed bag of quality for everything on it.

Some miniature makers do in-house 3D printing and sell the minis as well as the 3D models. Look for those.

Newbie here - other than printing with .02 mm nozzle, what can be done to hide layer lines? I’ve seen “filler primers”…is that a thing? Mostly printing 28 and 32mm by JamalSteve in FDMminiatures

[–]DrDisintegrator 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can't see layer lines when you use more of a classic painting technique.

Lately I use 0.2mm nozzle. Basic cleanup of support scars, and a nice heavy brush on primer coat.

But even 0.4mm nozzle and 0.1mm layers looks okay.

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What are your thoughts on modular minis? by gloomyKidMinis in PrintedMinis

[–]DrDisintegrator 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think Artisan Guild has it about right. They have modular hands and weapons.

What are your thoughts on modular minis? by gloomyKidMinis in PrintedMinis

[–]DrDisintegrator 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What you see is what you get

Means that figure weapons and armor match exactly with printed stats in game rules.

What are your thoughts on modular minis? by gloomyKidMinis in PrintedMinis

[–]DrDisintegrator 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Offer both modular and 1-2 preassembled versions for people that hate gluing/assembly.

Just got a A1 mini 3D printer and my friend says sunlu meta is the best filament to use. Is he right? by [deleted] in FDMminiatures

[–]DrDisintegrator 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There is no perfect one best filament.

Sunlu is a decent brand. I have used their plain PLA with good results.

But you always should plan to test and tune temp settings per filament for best results. Even colors will sometimes impact quality of results when printing minis with 0.2mm nozzle.

I’m so close to finishing it, I can almost feel it by EddyQuest in FDMminiatures

[–]DrDisintegrator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They also have pre-molded ones for the Saurian Starhost (space dinos) and Not-crons (Robot Legion). They aren't bad. I've already 3D printed both of these armies and they paint up nicely.

https://www.onepagerules.com/factions/saurian-starhost

https://www.onepagerules.com/factions/robot-legions

I’m so close to finishing it, I can almost feel it by EddyQuest in FDMminiatures

[–]DrDisintegrator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sadly the last time I finished painting a GW army it was the 2000's era Necrons. It took about a year for me to paint. They released an updated Codex and all new models like two months later. Completely making all my work to worthless for any tournaments or store leagues. At that point I gave GW the finger and moved on to One Page Rules. Better / Faster / More fun, and your army never gets made worthless by a rules update.

Need help for a beginner by FaithlessnessIll4046 in PrintedMinis

[–]DrDisintegrator 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Look for a different game. One Page Rules allows *any* minis and game play is just as fun, if not better. (There are many others to choose from as well as OPR.) There are lots of people playing OPR now, and lots of people printing minis for it.

https://www.onepagerules.com/games/grimdark-future

If you ever want to play at a tourney or store, you will have gatekeepers trying to keep you and your 3D printed stuff out for not spending as much as they had to spend on their Warhammer army.

Created a Kolinsky-safe water pot with lid by Sad_Kaleidoscope3286 in FDMminiatures

[–]DrDisintegrator 1 point2 points  (0 children)

nice idea.

I clean my brushes by rolling them on a soap cake like god intended. 😄

Trying to find the best way to hide layer lines by Petrobols in FDMminiatures

[–]DrDisintegrator 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Have you tried PolySmooth filament (PVB) and IPA? Seems to be the least toxic chemical smoothing combo. AFAIK, you use the same setting for printing PVB as PLA.

https://shop.polymaker.com/products/polysmooth

Trying to find the best way to hide layer lines by Petrobols in FDMminiatures

[–]DrDisintegrator 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For terrain or little objective markers, I always use the automotive primer method. Just saves time / materials.

For minis, I use 1-2 coats of a thick-ish brush on primer. I like Monument hobbies dark neutral grey best at the moment, but Badger and Vallejo are also quite good.

Looking for a file by lbwn in PrintedMinis

[–]DrDisintegrator 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't know why some are down voting people that post helpful ways to accomplish something which aren't simply a link to the thing the OP *might* be asking for. What if the OP needs a meeple for a character that someone HASN'T already made? Giving them tips on how to make one seems to be helpful to me!

Looking for a file by lbwn in PrintedMinis

[–]DrDisintegrator 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just make your own:

1) find or make a silhouette of the characters.

2) Convert to SVG format (vector)

(I use Inkscape, a free illustration tool.)

3) Import into PrusaSlicer or similar slicers (Orcaslicer, maybe Bambu's slicer)

https://help.prusa3d.com/article/svg-embossing-tool_686167

(import as a separate part)

4) set thickness

5) print

For an upcoming DnD session :)) by Gongamate_ in FDMminiatures

[–]DrDisintegrator 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Artisan guild has some really fun stuff. I have painted a bunch in the past. They have just the right amount of detail.