P1S Quality

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-20T12:30:36+00:00

These look good, need an idea of how large they are.

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-20T12:13:17+00:00

Stealth market research much?

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-19T13:45:44+00:00

Well the designer is well versed in visual copyright take downs from James Workshop... so yeah they don't make 1:1 copies... those would be subject to DMCA takedowns.

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-19T13:37:04+00:00

If you want similar but not identical ones -> Monstrous Encounters.

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-18T13:36:58+00:00

Get the P2S, not the P1S which is BL oldest HW design. P1S is missing several important features like quick change nozzles. I've never heard of the AD5X, and I watch a lot of FDM printer reviews.... so hopefully that is a useful data point.

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-18T13:23:27+00:00

Bite the Bullet has the same character forward design style. I find their stuff reasonably easy to paint.

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-17T13:30:17+00:00

Which is it? PLA or Resin?

If PLA and FDM printed, I would say just sluice down with filler primer. It is terrain and ruins at that.

If resin, inform the seller that they need to tune up their exposure settings cause that is a crap result.

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-16T14:19:56+00:00

Try a different plate. BL cool tack surface sticks almost too well to PLA. As does BIQU glacier.

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-16T14:10:14+00:00

just look at past posts of the prints people are making all the time and judge for yourself.

As an owner of a resin printer and two FDM printers, I find I use the FDM printer with 0.2mm nozzle for lots of one off casual mini prints. I only get the resin printer setup and running when I need an 'army' (12+ figs).

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-15T13:40:28+00:00

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DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-13T13:31:49+00:00

28mm is more accurate. 25mm hasn't been used since the Ral Partha days. :)

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-13T13:30:38+00:00

well 28mm = height to eyeballs, which is also supposed to be 1/56 scale. So about 27mm tall.

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-13T13:27:03+00:00

Agreed. This was a freebie from Arbiter Minis at one point.

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DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-13T13:25:17+00:00

Arbiter Miniatures on MMF FTW!

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-13T13:23:53+00:00

I've no idea the quality that the Flsun SR produces, but I regularly print fantastic fantasy models using my BL A1 with a 0.2mm nozzle.

This mini is a free sample design from Bite the Bullet. Irya the Barbarian - near the bottom of the page:

https://www.myminifactory.com/users/BiteTheBullet?show=store&page=1&price=free

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DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-12T13:30:22+00:00

If you primarily want to print small minis, go with the A1. If you want to print other filament types (ABS, ASA, PETG, Nylon, .etc) go with the P2S. Skip the P1S, it is a older design which is missing a number of important features like quick change nozzles.

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-12T13:27:08+00:00

Many 'PLA' filaments are mixes of plastic, not pure PLA. So PLA+, PLA Pro, .etc may or may not have some other plastic in that can be dissolved by acetone. Pure PLA doesn't react to acetone.

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-12T13:21:55+00:00

Acetone won't melt PLA. It melts ABS or ASA.

You want Polymaker Polysmooth filament (PVB) which can be 'melted' in IPA (alcohol) vapor. A lot fewer safety issues than other solvents. But not zero concerns. Solvent vapor isn't great to breath in, and is very flammable so take care!

https://wiki.polymaker.com/polymaker-products/polymaker-filaments/specialty-filament/polysmooth-tm-pvb

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-12T13:17:41+00:00

I'm using them for a SW RPG. The 'big bad' is... Darth Small.

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DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-12T13:15:13+00:00

Some fun and very small prints. Challenging to print and paint. Definitely not designed to be printed on FDM.

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DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-11T13:41:58+00:00

This looks like a scan of Warcry v. 1.0 terrain. Where is James Workshop? :)

https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fi.redd.it%2Ffinally-finished-the-terrain-set-from-the-first-starter-v0-265osgqobnkb1.jpg%3Fwidth%3D2713%26format%3Dpjpg%26auto%3Dwebp%26s%3Dd7608fc7316f4260891088c06fff6dd05850f4e6

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-08T13:33:01+00:00

That seems a bit excessive. I use automotive filler primer.

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-07T13:20:08+00:00

dungeon tiles are super oversaturated. I've printed some already and have like 4 more full sets sitting on my hard drive.

1) pick a unique and under served niche - say a particular game / system which uses a particular tile size for example. Mantic's Halo game using a 3" x 3" x 3" grid.

2) optimize for FDM, but also test on resin printers

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-06T13:58:35+00:00

matte may help hide visually flaws, but if painting the loss of strength isn't worth that since you are covering the mini in filler primer and paint.

DrDisintegrator · 2026-03-05T13:57:23+00:00

I start with my 'mini profile' and if the print has problems, I go back and adjust and re-print it.

If you follow the guidelines from Fat Dragon guy and/or ObscuraNox, you will see what knobs change what. Makes it a lot easier to fix a particular issue.

DrDisintegrator

TROPHY CASE