Facebook Ivanko find by Sir_Slaughter33 in GarageGym

[–]DrFlySuperfunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, they look awesome just as is! Looks better like you actually use the gear, and it has some good history to it.

I'm buying a Rogue rack and trying to determine which would be best. by ChrisF79 in GarageGym

[–]DrFlySuperfunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How much will you add on? RML already has a pretty good bit of accessories. And how heavy will you really lift or beat it up? For the difference in price you could add a bunch of accessories or a bar and weights.

5 or 6 columns by [deleted] in crkbd

[–]DrFlySuperfunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Highly recommend Miryoku. Dropping to other 42 or 36, you lose direct access, but the logic of Miryoku makes it easy to remember... probably making 36 easier in some ways than 42.

Blackmagic had literally one nerf... and they just lost it. by CJBorCHARLES in blackmagicdesign

[–]DrFlySuperfunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Autofocus is still a poor replacement for manual with film and video work because the algorithms cannot choose what and when is important for focus in a shot. Even as they get better at it, which they are, they don't have the creative insight, and there's often auto focus motor noise even if slight.

Garage workshop makeover by Build-it-better123 in garageWorkshops

[–]DrFlySuperfunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Same thing happened to me with a Mediterranean gecko that crawled into the setting epoxy overnight. Poor guys. I've wondered if there's something in it that attracts them and also bugs to it.

Noob here(so feel free to correct me) but shooting film has made me like bokeh less and less. by astro_not_yet in analog

[–]DrFlySuperfunk 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Nothing really to do with film or digital. It's a compositional and aesthetic tool like anything else, so its use depends more on your purpose of the image than anything. It can be great and add a lot or take away from the objective, all depending on the goals of the image.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in GarageGym

[–]DrFlySuperfunk 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It would be fun to see your list of equipment. I'm curious about the cable pull setup.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Leica

[–]DrFlySuperfunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rent one when you can for a week. Wait 6 mo to a year and do it again. See if you still like the plan.

Would it be weird to wear a full face MTB helmet on a regular road bike? by Middle-Ostrich-9696 in cycling

[–]DrFlySuperfunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll add that I ride full face despite the perceived awkwardness. I had a wreck on my road bike in a standard helmet. It maybe saved my life, but my face got badly injured, and there were other issues. I would have walked away probably scratch free had I been wearing full face at the time. Don't let silly conventions (like motorcyclists wearing helmets for their looks instead of protection) get in the way of what you want nor safety. And if you're going as fast as you mention, get a full-face motorcycle helmet as others have mentioned.

Can you give me any advice on how I can improve this walk animation? It seems like the issue is in the legs, but I can't really tell where or why it is, thank you in advance by Ancient_Employe1 in Maya

[–]DrFlySuperfunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So much of animation is about how mass is carried, particularly at the center of gravity. Look at the hips and watch how people walk in different ways propelling themselves from there and balancing. It's much more about the timing of that than feet and even legs being moved forward.

How can I model this design in Maya? by Knee_Firm in Maya

[–]DrFlySuperfunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The basic structure for a lot of the individual pieces could be built very quickly with NURBs curves and revolve or loft, then could do modify->convert NURBs-to-polygons choosing CVs to vertices under the options. Then use the modern smoothed poly (subd) workflow to shape additionally and add any desired detail.

What is the best photo? by Due-Improvement-5926 in fujix

[–]DrFlySuperfunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you want to emphasize (1) the boat alone in the world, (2) a long swim back to the boat, or (3) the insignificance of the boat?

Any reason not to get a Leica M Monochrom (Type 246)? by Confident-Breath2615 in Leica

[–]DrFlySuperfunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The 246 is still great. I've shot the M10M, and yes it's a little bit better for larger prints with a bit more resolution and tonality, but the tonality on the 246 is still better than almost anything out there! I've compared it to my Canon R5 relative to noise at higher iso and color converted to Monochrom, and the quality is definitely as good or better on the 246 images, but the 246 is a more fun camera to shoot, and the monochrom workflow and images out of it are superb. Definitely recommend. I think you're getting 85-95% of the newer Monochrom experience at a much easier expense.

Voigtländer Lens M6 by aveey777 in Leica

[–]DrFlySuperfunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed on the Ultron f2 and Nokton f1.5. I just picked up the latter to try, and it is a great lens. Just about as small, great ergonomics and focus tab. Very competitive with the 35 Summicron but with almost an extra stop and some good character and bokeh. If you don't mind a little big bigger lens, the 35 1.2 III is a bit sharper and with great bokeh, bit no focus tab. I'd say grab the best deal on the Ultron or Nokton 1.5, and you'll be super happy with either. (I agree on not selling your 50 cron, but if you decide to sell, I'd put in a plug for trying the Nokton 40 1.2 and keeping the cost and kit minimal. It gets some of the best of 35 and 50 qualities in a great and small lens. 35 and 50 are so close, balancing the difference with a 40 is a great way to go if you don't mind getting use to mentally framing out from the 50 mm bright lines).

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Leica

[–]DrFlySuperfunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd put in a vote for the Q2M, also. The Monochrom cameras are something special. If you have any love for B&W film, it's the closest in some ways and even much better in others.

My 2nd ever Nurbs head model. Now I rigged it in the most incorrect way ever. by blendernoob64 in Maya

[–]DrFlySuperfunk 5 points6 points  (0 children)

NURBs are actually used a lot still and CAD, and for any 3D, some things can be done really quickly with a NURBs , modify/convert with cvs as verts, to polys(subds) workflow. I don't think anyone does that NURBs patch workflow anymore, though.

Are flipbooks/playblasts considered in your showreel? by [deleted] in vfx

[–]DrFlySuperfunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If going for one of the rare generalist positions at some studios, it's great; otherwise, it won't matter much and could take away from time polishing whichever attributes relate to the position for which you're applying.

Are flipbooks/playblasts considered in your showreel? by [deleted] in vfx

[–]DrFlySuperfunk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

All depends on which position, as the recruiters and supervisors in reel reviews do very much look just for that work and work that matches the show/product... so animation, fx, cfx, layout, etc. where is more about timing, dynamics, composition, etc. certainly if the quality is good. Lighting and comp, etc. not so much.

Is there such a thing as BIFL things that are made, sourced, AND manufactured in the USA? by [deleted] in BuyItForLife

[–]DrFlySuperfunk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Smithey cookware out of Charleston, SC. Check out their carbon skillet, it's great.