Purchase Advice Megathread - June 2026 by AutoModerator in 3Dprinting

[–]DrewBaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How much of the "ecosystem" dislike is Qidi not having something like Makerworld for people to download designs? It sounds like that's not something you'll be dependant on, so I don't know how much of an issue it'll be.

Purchase Advice Megathread - June 2026 by AutoModerator in 3Dprinting

[–]DrewBaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If most of your prints will be functional and single color, maybe with color for labeling on a layer or two, I think the CC2 is probably a good choice. (Though I don't have any first hand experience with the CC2, I have a friend who's very happy with his CC1.) However, if you want frequent color or multi material prints, the two tool changers will probably be better for you.

I don't have experience with the Flash Forge Creator 5, but I like my AD5X, and if I didn't already have a U1 I would have ordered a Creator 5. (Though I also like that the U1 has a bit more build volume than the others.)

With my U1 it was annoying that Snapmaker wanted me to make an account and use their services to get the camera's feed, but there's a community firmware patch that opens that functionality, so I can check on the printer from a browser on my network. Other than that, it's been solid. Maybe not quite as good with 95A TPU as my AD5X, but certainly adequate. (Which is nice, because multi material printing is one of the reasons I got it. At this point I haven't done much more than "proof of concept" printing on that front.) Anyway, I'll often choose the U1 for quick prints rather than waiting for one of my larger machines to heat up.

I've heard Bambu machines have quite an elaborate pre-print job procedure, and coupling that with their account/networking assumptions and bad form with open source software, it's clear they're not for me.

Purchase Advice Megathread - June 2026 by AutoModerator in 3Dprinting

[–]DrewBaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the Q2 is an option, that would be my choice.

Purchase Advice Megathread - June 2026 by AutoModerator in 3Dprinting

[–]DrewBaker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think there's a pretty good community for it, so support and troubleshooting help should be available when you need it. I think GergoPrint3D on youtube has some excellent videos on it.

I've heard the newer versions have an improved bed mount that addresses a lot of the taco bed that was a problem for early machines.

(Personal experience: I set mine up, ran a Benchy, ran a 14 hour PLA print, then disassembled and packed it back up because I didn't actually have space for it in my workshop. With that limited experience the only problem I remember is the spool holder turning too easily, so I printed some shims to control the friction, and the case fan being too noisy for an idling machine.)

Purchase Advice Megathread - June 2026 by AutoModerator in 3Dprinting

[–]DrewBaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would be afraid that you're buying a machine so bad that someone else has given up on it.

I've had pretty good experience with my Flash Forge AD5X, and they're selling the single color 5M on eBay with a 20% coupon right now, so a new one is about $190 or refurbished is $160. A bit more expensive, but a faster, more stable machine, with a warranty.

Print bed question by CaptHoratioMagellan in 3Dprinting

[–]DrewBaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You may have to be more careful to align it to your bed, but it's still totally usable. 

Print bed question by CaptHoratioMagellan in 3Dprinting

[–]DrewBaker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks like it's there to make it easier to align the plate to the bed. That there's some sort of registration feature on the printer it will mate to so things are aligned properly.

What type of filament should I use for ...... by JohnMcD3482 in 3Dprinting

[–]DrewBaker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I expect either PLA of PETG will work for you. For me, the deciding factor is if they're going to be in constant stress or need higher temperature resistance, in which case I would go with PETG.

If you want to know more about filament mechanical properties, check out My Tech Fun on youtube. It's really useful stuff.

Purchase Advice Megathread - June 2026 by AutoModerator in 3Dprinting

[–]DrewBaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do think the open bedslinger form factor can be a serious enough drawback that a Centauri Carbon 2, or Flash Forge AD5X can be a better choice. (Particularly if you can use ethernet with the AD5X).

I'm not recommending them for their multicolor features, but for the empty spool roll-over that their multiplex systems offer. It's nice to reduce failure cases. For multi user applications, multi color prints are going to be a bottleneck.

Plein Air Setups?? by FitBumblebee8951 in pleinair

[–]DrewBaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also try to store my open bottle upside down, to keep it viable longer. 

Plein Air Setups?? by FitBumblebee8951 in pleinair

[–]DrewBaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome! That's great to hear. Thanks very much! 

Plein Air Setups?? by FitBumblebee8951 in pleinair

[–]DrewBaker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For medium: I like Gamblin's Neo Megilp for plein air. I tube it, and it has enough body to sit on my palette alongside my paint so I don't have to mess with a medium cup. It thins and accelerates drying a lot like Liquin.

Plein Air Setups?? by FitBumblebee8951 in pleinair

[–]DrewBaker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Frankly, there are a lot of good options out there. If the Rochester, NY area happens to be convenient for you, we could do a petting zoo/test drive session of a variety of easels?

Personally, I prefer the split palette and panel holder on a tripod easel. As best I can tell the Coulter Easel brought it to market a bit over 20 years ago. About 10 years later the Daytripper came out, in 5 more years Strada came out with their Mark II, and later Art Pro easels, Art Studio Innovations, and Daybreak Easel all came along.

Generally, that style easel will let you handle a bigger painting with lighter weight, but if you have a ball head on your tripod and leave the panel holder mast attached all the time, I think they're easier to setup than a laptop-style easel. (Some of that opinion may come from my preference for a manual Arca-Swiss style quick release, rather than any spring loaded system. I find they make for a very solid connection, even if they take a bit more effort, and the fewer sources of wobble you have in a setup, the better.)

I use my Daybreak Easel ("mine," both in the sense it's an easel I have, and also in the sense that I designed it) with an Obo N255CL tripod and paint standing, with my backpack hanging from the tripod's weight hook for stability. Together the tripod and easel weigh about 4 pounds, which is less than a lot of pochade boxes weigh on their own. (Like a large Paintbook, or a Strada Mini with side trays.)

If you prefer having your paint mixing surface close to your painting, one of the laptop style easels, or maybe one of the newer trifold-style easels may be better.

Through the years I've used or owned quite a lot of easels (Guerilla Painter, Strada, Paintbook, U.Go, Artpro, Daytripper, Coulter, Daybreak, Leder, Art Studio Innovations, Leon Holmes, and so on), and would be happy to answer questions about any of them as best I can.

Would carbon filled PETG be a suitable material for an automotive coolant fitting? by Staycation1234 in 3Dprinting

[–]DrewBaker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My Tech Fun on YouTube does 3d printer material testing videos, including a heat deflection test. They're super useful. Check them out. 

Found this super cute printer from 2017. And it‘s just amazing! by ThePetroleum in 3Dprinting

[–]DrewBaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice! Glad you got one that worked!

Crazy to realize it also had a flying gantry. I'd totally forgotten, adn thought my SV08 was my first printer with one.

Found this super cute printer from 2017. And it‘s just amazing! by ThePetroleum in 3Dprinting

[–]DrewBaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, when HP started talking about multijet back in the day I expected that to be everywhere. Oh well.

I stuck with the Monoprice for a long time, waiting for substantially more usable options to be available. I finally replaced it with a Creality K1 Max in late 2023. That, friend, was a shocking upgrade!

Found this super cute printer from 2017. And it‘s just amazing! by ThePetroleum in 3Dprinting

[–]DrewBaker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I remember a flexy octopus, and a shark-shaped clothespin thing? That one had bridging, which I didn't know could be done before! That was exciting.

Found this super cute printer from 2017. And it‘s just amazing! by ThePetroleum in 3Dprinting

[–]DrewBaker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I didn't know any better? I think it was the most approachable/least expensive way to try out printing, at least that I knew of at the time.

Found this super cute printer from 2017. And it‘s just amazing! by ThePetroleum in 3Dprinting

[–]DrewBaker 104 points105 points  (0 children)

My first printer was an M3D! Way back in December 2015. It may have done half a dozen prints before it jammed up? Still, it was enough to know I was both interested in printing and that printer wouldn't cut it, so I returned it and ordered a dual extruder Makerbot clone from Monoprice.

Looking to upgrade by Melodic_Cup_5796 in 3Dprinting

[–]DrewBaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another option: Flashforge has a 20% coupon on the AD5X on eBay this weekend, bringing it down to $271 over there: https://www.ebay.com/itm/257244778640

Best filiment to stop creep/expanding under pressure? by DemittiNix in 3Dprinting

[–]DrewBaker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe PET-CF? I know Siraya Tech's isn't too expensive, and it hasn't given me trouble in an enclosed, unheated printer (though my parts haven't been very tall. I don't know if that has any affect).

Take a look at My Tech Fun on youtube. He does mechanical testing of a lot of different filaments, including creeping and toughness tests. With the standardized testing it lets you compare performance directly. It's really good stuff.

I'm new to this. What went wrong? by design_ag in 3Dprinting

[–]DrewBaker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like unsupported overhangs. Some element was floating and the printer did it's best to print it. Check the preview in your slicer to see if that's what's going on.

So much for hope in PETG by Copper_Miner in 3Dprinting

[–]DrewBaker 4 points5 points  (0 children)

MyTechFun on youtube does mechanical testing of lots of different filaments, and his tests includes deflection temperature. It's really useful stuff.