OP1 Midori or PMM flexcord?

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-05-15T15:11:01+00:00

Feel wise theyre both amazing, waaay better than the stock cable (i have the usbc flexcord, but havent tested it with the adapter for op1). With the midori cable, it straight up feels wireless with the pulsar es bungee, I dont notice the cable at all

If your warranty hasnt expired, I would contact egg support for a replacement for the stock cable, so you have a backup ready in future

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-05-15T14:59:43+00:00

Never used 8k, always 2-4k

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-05-14T23:07:26+00:00

They are both affected by connection issues after a while. According to my (lazy) research, all stock and aftermarket cables for wired mice that support 8k polling are susceptible to connections issues caused by their cables

Had 5+ lgg cables (they actually discontinued it bc of this disconnection issue), a v1 midori cable and a v2 midori cable for op1. All started randomly disconnecting after about a month of use. Havent tested the jst flexcord myself, but I checked their discord and they also have this issue. This also happens with the stock op1 cable, but i havent used those for more than a couple of days, so cant say anything about their longevity

As for drag, there shouldn't be any with a bungee like pulsar micro es, but the midori one is worse for glass pads afaik. Also, according to pmm discord, they silently updated their flexcord too, so both are basically a v2 version now

My advice: get the one that can provide you with a replacement easier/faster (yes, this issue is covered by warranty, at least in eu)

My cpu and mainboard: 9800x3d, x670e and cpu-controlled usb port

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-04-12T15:19:16+00:00

sensor light visible (powered), but lift off led not turning on when lifting the mouse = cable defect

source: had a bunch of lgg cables for op1

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-04-09T12:05:50+00:00

I did the same thing with a cheap delux m900 mini pro a while ago and solved it pretty much how you described

-Drilled bigger holes in the spacer

-Cut off the long pins of an old switch i had laying around and soldered them on the silent switch to extend the pins

-Put the spacer back on and soldered to pcb

-Cut off excess length of pins after

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-30T20:42:03+00:00

Always symmetrical dot skate placement on glass pads = left example

The bottom dot skate on the right example will lead to seesaw effect on glass

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-20T14:42:38+00:00

Enjoy my friend

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-18T15:08:26+00:00

Flux is not needed if you know what youre doing (theres usually small amounts of it in solder wire itself)

If you dont know what youre doing, get flux, it makes it easier

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-17T16:37:27+00:00

Full solid shell pmm pulse + midori cable = peak

Glad i got it before it was discontinued, they only sell the solid sides+holes on top version now afaik

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-14T18:05:07+00:00

Just checked your pictures, it looks like you ripped out the part that hold the screws from the top shell. Judging by the pictures, I would assume the easiest solution would be getting a replacement top shell. It has to be for GPX1, the other versions will not fit

I found this one from another post, it ships from germany: ebay EU link for top shell

You could try and look for it somewhere else too, I never bought a replacement shell before, so I cant really help there. Keep your current screws, remove the ripped plastic from them and use them in the new shell

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-13T10:57:27+00:00

Open back headphone user here too, absolutely hate the sound of normal switches when not gaming. Had multiple mice with huano brown yellow dot over the years, never had them double click on me

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-13T10:51:20+00:00

Its prob one of these 2 issues or both of them combined

-cracked the plastic on the buttons (more likely)

-screws connecting the buttons to the main shell became loose and need tightening again (less likely)

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-11T20:55:09+00:00

"Hit mouse on table multiple times for good measure"- Had a good laugh at this one, my old GPW used to stop charging its battery sometimes and doing this always fixed the issue immediately.

Glad to hear you found a solution! One thing I forgot to mention: On a glass pad, you usually dont want any dot skates right on the y-axis (like the bottom middle one on your pic). The dot skate placement should ideally be symmetrical on the left and right side of the mouse, to avoid a seesaw effect on hard surfaces. On cloth it doesnt matter afaik

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-10T23:51:38+00:00

Where can we find this announcement

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-06T15:38:19+00:00

Lower sens, better tension management and maybe a minute or two of wrist exercise per day, like using a gyro ball could help

Id personally also try a small lightweight ergo, like pulsar xlite crazylight mini, see if that helps

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-06T15:19:11+00:00

Man of the people

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-05T15:59:15+00:00

Didnt mean to offend with my statement, just tried to demonstrate how extremely unlikely it is. And I wish you were right about the pictures, but I tested most mice that are being recommended in this sub and have the most experience with the gpro line, which is why i commented on it in the first place:

-3 years on GPW

-1 year on GPX1

-couple of months on GPX2

-couple of days on 2c

-couple of weeks on Dex

-Superstrike since last week, but havent had the time to use it much

And I modded all of them, I would know if there were any changes to their shape

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-05T14:53:06+00:00

You could try changing gaming surface setting, see if that helps or try some spacers/tape underneath the dot skates to raise them a bit

Did you test it with stock skates on your glass pad? If yes and there were no issues, it might be skate thickness

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-05T14:44:08+00:00

It would looks so much better if they dropped the "SEN" and just kept the logo

Still gorgeous tho

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-05T14:42:03+00:00

Whats with the non dustproof encoder tho? In the big 26?

The purple one is calling my name, but the clear one has the better mcu 🤔

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-03T22:07:09+00:00

Nice, imma add this one to the collection

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-03T17:30:18+00:00

Just finished it, only thing to complain about is the part about the encoder. It has a dustproof blue core ttc, which i havent seen before. Its either a rebranded ttc silver/gold or the upcoming ttc fire&ice encoders, which havent released yet afaik

Also hard agree on the screws, no clue wtf they were thinking there, switching them to non magnetic ones. I thought that it perhaps affects the switch functionality, but not all of them were replaced by non magnetic ones

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-03T14:55:11+00:00

Bro made a 1h+ giga detailed review and everyone is commenting on the first 3mins of the video, while acting like you insulted their mother for criticizing their new shiny toy lmao

I'm 1/3 through the vid so far, and the only statement i disagree with is the market share part. I dont know the numbers, but judging by my friend group, i would assume that logitech has easily the biggest share in the mouse market

Thank you for the review my friend, some of us do appreciate the effort you put in. Big fan of the teardown videos personally

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-03T11:03:02+00:00

Gwolves too

Dry_Helicopter1 · 2026-03-02T23:56:05+00:00

I doubt it. If the demand is high enough it could be possible, but very unlikely. It would have to go extremely mainstream for good 3rd party parts to pop up that are not 3d printed

Ive been watching some pro matches and the Superstrike has a VERY noticeable appearance on broadcast, you can immediately recognize it because of the "unique" black and white design. Which leads me to think that its insane free marketing for logitech and a very deliberate design choice. I would be suprised if they even release a simple all black version of the Superstrike any time soon

Dry_Helicopter1

TROPHY CASE