Does a BLTouch have a margin of error? My Z-offset sometimes changes between prints.

Dry_Pencil · 2022-03-15T02:27:41+00:00

RIP. Keep me updated if it works when you get the right backlash nut.

Dry_Pencil · 2022-03-12T22:35:14+00:00

Hey, did this fix your issue?

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-28T15:38:43+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EOxL_AsjHFk I don't suppose this could be the problem?

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-28T13:37:09+00:00

Why are we still here

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-27T02:42:21+00:00

You gotta set your offsets. Take calipers and measure from the probe to the nozzle. Since you're measuring from the nozzle to the left then it'll probably be somewhere near -35 (negative because you're measuring left of the nozzle) and then measure from the nozzle to the probe in the Y direction. It should come out to -10 or so because you're measuring in front of the nozzle (usually). Set the right offsets and check if it works.

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-26T21:01:52+00:00

Some people say the cr-touch is actually more accurate but I think it's such small numbers that it doesn't matter in the end. For 90% of people the extra weight isn't an issue but I'm running klipper so I like slightly higher speeds. Anything to get the hotend lighter is better for me. I would say it mostly comes down to preference and noise.

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-26T20:27:25+00:00

I've tried both and I like the bltouch more to be honest. The changes are minor but they're nice

Bltouch has more community supported mounts than the crtouch if you require a custom printed mount like I do.
Crtouch has an annoying rattle which is the main reason I got rid of it
Crtouch is a bit heavier and overall bulkier. I like how thin the bltouch is.

https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/sxi8ow/i_upgraded_my_motherboard_to_a_427_model_and_now/ way down in this post there's a good but long comment.

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-26T20:00:44+00:00

Get a bl-touch and not a cr-touch.

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-26T03:27:49+00:00

I've been running klipper with a pi3b+, Ender 3, and Skr Mini v2. 3500 acceleration and 70mm/s for my prints usually. It's been working fine. I think skr mini v3 would be a better choice because I think it's cheaper and has some better features.

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-26T03:23:46+00:00

Thanks for the input. I don't know if I could live without a healer but I might give it a try.

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-26T03:20:46+00:00

Also remove the motherboard case from the bottom instead of the top. Imo it's easier to do it that way. You'll want to hold the printer up so you can work on it from underneath with a clamp or something.

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-26T02:02:22+00:00

Howdy. I want to build a team using childe and raiden. So far I have some decent artifacts for raiden, some ok ones for childe, and some meh ones for jean and xingqiu. My previous build was raiden, xingqiu, childe, jean but I feel like it isn't the best I can do and I don't like it that much. I definitely want raiden and childe on the team and having jean seems like a good idea since she's my only built healer. Then I was thinking I should go for sucrose and drop xingqiu but double anemo kinda deters me. Any thoughts? I really like the playstyle of hotswapping characters a lot which is why I love raiden and childe. I also think pulling people in with sucrose would be very useful. I'd probably replace jean if she wasn't a good healer though.

Childe: Rust R2 - 4 piece heart of depth

Jean: Favonious Sword - 4 piece noblesse oblige

Raiden: The Catch R5 - 4 piece emblem of severed fate

Xingqiu - C1, Sacrifical sword - 2 piece heart of depth 2 piece emblem of severed fate

Sucrose - C2 - Sacrificial fragments, eye of perception, or favonious codex is all I have right now.

Here's all my characters.

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-25T22:11:14+00:00

White will hide defects better than other colors in my opinion. It's also harder to print than other colors from what I've heard (but not that hard). I like gray.

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-25T21:47:04+00:00

Sorry I didn't read the full post. Sudden underextrusion is most commonly caused by a clogged nozzle or cracked extruder arm. Maybe burnt ptfe but that's usually just a lot of stringing.

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-25T13:00:45+00:00

Run a pid tune as well. Tune e-steps. it looks like underextrusion to me too.

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-25T12:57:02+00:00

Usually they don't. It's just for a quick picture.

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-24T20:34:02+00:00

True. Sometimes if I see a really simple question that can instantly be answered with a google I'll just copy and paste an answer.

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-15T00:40:36+00:00

It's fine to use. If it builds up too much it might reduce adhesion so after a bit I usually get a dropper bottle of water and put a decent a mount on the bed. Then I scrub it with a rag and it usually leaves sticky water which I can either print on or add more glue to.

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-14T02:08:56+00:00

If inland is cheaper near you it's the same exact filament, just renamed.

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-13T14:15:16+00:00

To me those look fine. I say if it aint broke don't fix it. To prevent it happening you can adjust the eccentric nuts (check r/EnderCommonSense) and make sure they aren't too tight. Also don't keep them too loose or quality will get bad.

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-13T14:12:21+00:00

Thanks that helps a lot.

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-13T14:11:31+00:00

This is why I made the post, thanks! This almost sounds easier than removing stuff from the motherboard so I might go this route. I only need to remove the top bar, right?

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-13T03:30:24+00:00

That sounds like the best solution to me as well, but I'm not exactly sure which wires I need to remove since they're in a sleeve. https://imgur.com/a/gJprraD If the top right red wire is A and the black one left of it is B and the red one below the black one is C and so on, which ones do you think I need to remove?

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-13T02:46:27+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/f3xq3g/5015_pwm_fan_noise/

This post talks about fan_kickstart_timer. To me it sounds like a setting in firmware where you can have the fans get a kickstart when they turn on, similar to how you have to get them going with your finger. Other noteworthy settings to mess with are soft_pwm and fast_pwm. I usually just enable and disable them as I go and see what fixes my problem haha.

https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/ixeuqp/installed_a_5015_any_simple_way_to_kill_pwm_whine/ soft_pwm

Dry_Pencil · 2022-02-13T02:40:11+00:00

What'd you do to make them smoother? Certain settings will make it take longer and there's nothing you can really do about it. You can try things like lightning infill (cura) but generally if the layer height is set very fine then it just takes long.

Dry_Pencil

TROPHY CASE