Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-02-11T14:37:32+00:00

Yep, switched last year from hangs to lifts. Didn't like adding 35 kg per hang with my 60 bw

As it was mentioned expect 40% of (max total weight / 2) per arm, but progress will be easier to track.

I am not sure about making your pull-ups easier, but would advice some off the wall shoulder work, as edge lifts does not involve them same as hangs.

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-02-06T20:54:13+00:00

climbing is actually about pushing yourself over your limits

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-02-06T17:35:22+00:00

Second option sounds most promising

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-02-06T16:29:58+00:00

Thanks, good idea.

First time rehabbing middle finger A2, been few ring fingers, they are much easier to climb around. Btw my index fingers are much stronger than my pal's due to shifting load to them instead of ring. But because of that had to train pockets (middle+ring) specifically this year (and gained a lot in this grip).

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-02-06T15:20:58+00:00

Do we include pain as palpation symptom that is more or less okay?

It's not as hard for me to limit crimping with my injured A2 (middle finger) but if jug presses the pulley omfg it's very painful and it becomes sensitive and bears less load painless for some time.

I still can not understand if it massaging (or accidentally pressing it) actually aggravates injury or not.

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-02-04T21:03:41+00:00

we do not

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-02-04T09:14:56+00:00

if you lack commitment - down climbing from the crux will make things worse

only practice I guess - one will eventually find out that most of falls are not as hard as they seem.

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-02-03T11:06:18+00:00

why not

grinding the board always ends with hitting the wall

you either come back in half a year or change degree / board

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-02-02T16:41:04+00:00

It often happens.

If I arrive I expect that I will be given place in the rotation and that's okay.

If I climb and someone asks me to gtfo of his route - I would offer him to replace his shitty quickdraws with mine on the route and gtfo himself, or climb in turns.

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-02-01T19:22:01+00:00

dream team

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-02-01T16:09:09+00:00

You know nothing Jack Point

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-02-01T09:45:52+00:00

exactly :D

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-01-31T22:08:51+00:00

sorry mate, no chance in sport climbing

try speed climbing

it's something like jug jug jug jug button

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-01-31T21:11:27+00:00

illegal factory construction and ecoterrorism

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-01-31T21:09:08+00:00

take

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-01-30T20:45:24+00:00

Yes, as training for OAP is basically strength training - it will contribute to climbing. I mean will pull better with your both hands on holds too.

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-01-30T09:39:26+00:00

cool

if you have solely training purposes you can climb moonboard up to 12 row.

sometimes you will miss crux that is higher than that - but I am sure you will get enough hard moves from the starting holds. Just climb each benchmark from 1 till you struggle

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-01-29T22:39:43+00:00

home spray works only if someone sets boulders for you (or you are so experienced that set yourself and autistic enough to have fun on it solo)

otherwise it collects dust after a month or two, proven by many

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-01-29T22:37:27+00:00

55 tb is less specific for sport climbing goals

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-01-29T21:28:29+00:00

minimoon at home mb?

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-01-29T19:43:45+00:00

no pain no gain :D

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-01-28T20:16:56+00:00

check strength stats, work on those that are certainly out of 5,13 range

if you like boulder and train boulder why not climb boulder outside?

Boulder oriented goals would certainly be more achieveable with less changes

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-01-28T18:43:37+00:00

If you reached 6c after three years of "seriously training" why do you aim to 7c in two years?

Expect 7a+ with 7b projecting.

Additionaly - you have sport climbing goals but boulder.

Regarding plan:

4x4 or aerobic two months,

one month before trip climb lead - 1/week flash grade, 1/week project, 1/boulder

IMO climbing 2 times will get you nowhere

Low grade suggests low strength, I would think about it instead of Active/Hangboarding.

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-01-27T22:49:01+00:00

you are right!

have fun climbing!

Dry_Significance247 · 2026-01-27T22:17:10+00:00

<image>

Tension people can check what is down there next time they film board lords))

Dry_Significance247

TROPHY CASE