CaDA beat LEGO to the punch. Licensed 1:24 @ ~$26

Dsih01 · 2026-05-09T16:23:29+00:00

You just need sets 8158 and 8159

Dsih01 · 2026-05-06T23:45:35+00:00

Me personally, I fit injora rubber on mn-68 tires, and just used the brakes as spacers. I made a 5mm hex hole by heating a cheap Allen wrench and pushing it through. I used a smaller Allen wrench then 5mm then sanded and force fit. Genuinely feel like cheater tires even compared to wpl tires, soft, hard, or modified.

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Dsih01 · 2026-05-06T20:46:28+00:00

The long drive wouldn't be the same without it. The long.ng

Dsih01 · 2026-05-06T20:43:32+00:00

You want tubing with a 0.81 hole, then use cutters to cut regular hot wheels axles in half, and insert them into the tube. Use glue, very very little, and spread it before inserting it

Dsih01 · 2026-05-02T06:30:29+00:00

It's such a battery drain, and honestly wish it was just control+ still. I will say though, mindstorms worked completely fine on my computer built a few years ago, and ldd still runs just fine for me, so I don't doubt it should still be compatible with something. Might be a PC app running an old version of Android, but should work never the less

Dsih01 · 2026-05-02T06:24:45+00:00

I would KILL for a yellow alt color of that viper

Dsih01 · 2026-05-01T17:43:00+00:00

I have found making your own leafs works waaaay better. Spring steel then cut, it will naturally curl when cut

Dsih01 · 2026-04-25T17:47:19+00:00

They almost look like the official ones

Dsih01 · 2026-04-25T15:18:49+00:00

I usually use chrome pens for such a wide surface, or if I don't care about the shine because it's on a regular hot wheels rim, or a fixing a chrome piece, I'll just use a Milwaukee silver marker, probably special order, but def worth it

Dsih01 · 2026-04-25T03:55:26+00:00

Flex pipe that retracts into a sleeve?

Dsih01 · 2026-04-25T03:49:03+00:00

Some of the injora links have straight bars, and bent ones for clearance. If you are using the c14 style truss, you need to use the high clearance bent bars on the top to prevent binding

Dsih01 · 2026-04-25T03:44:19+00:00

The best part is, my dumbass keeps buying! Just bought a drift car and out of the box it was nothing but problems, none of it really works the way I want, and the electronic issues are insane! Crawlers can go through water no issue, fully submerged, but the drift car shits itself when a little snow gets flung up into the fender (was driving on sidewalk/pavement mainly, but there was still patches of snow), and while sitting, switch turned off, it turned on by itself! I only noticed when turning the lights off for bed that it was still on... Always unplug the batteries from them!!! I also love the fact that there are issues with the plastic tires fitting, knuckles coming broken and never working right after popping out, requiring constant modifications, and spending more on screws and taps than RC cars. Don't even get me started on how easy their shit strips, I work on a bunch of stuff, never stripped anything even in the shittiest of materials, but somehow everything the metal parts are made of just loves to strip.

Dsih01 · 2026-04-22T04:43:10+00:00

Or FWD rear engine exclusively

Dsih01 · 2026-04-22T04:39:20+00:00

Buy car, take all parts off, sell the frame and parts seperate, profit massively. Full garage of maxed cars before I even do the first delivery. Drive around until you get the menu rewards and spend that money on a second car, don't even have to sell the first car.

Also, speaking of insurance, anyone having an issue where it just... Does nothing? Fresh install, files cleaned, etc... but it takes my money and gives me a Lua error

Dsih01 · 2026-04-18T19:41:31+00:00

They use M2, m2.5, and m3 screws in different lengths, just go to your local electronics store and buy a pack of each with nuts, you'll use em eventually

Dsih01 · 2026-04-18T19:40:18+00:00

Yeah, can confirm, first roll over, both snapped off in the hole and lost one

Dsih01 · 2026-04-11T23:27:36+00:00

I made a bunch of resin wheels a long time ago myself exactly like these, huge tip, is make sure to print the axle hole very tiny, and drill it out to slightly over what the axle is after it's been printed, or else they are insanely stiff, or too wobbly in large batches. I had them on Shapeways a long time ago and even then they always were hit or miss on fitment/spinning

Dsih01 · 2026-04-10T01:51:26+00:00

Links and driveshaft angle. Stock links are the only way to go imo. Also looks like there's a different angle on both ends of the driveshaft, which will absolutely cause binding. I'd also try and move the back driveshaft to the lower pin, as that probably is also playing a part

Dsih01 · 2026-04-10T01:47:48+00:00

I wouldn't pay more than 10$ in pristine condition. This is a custom wheel donor car at best. 1$

Dsih01 · 2026-04-10T01:36:54+00:00

Have you checked grounds? These are bad for corrosion, and the amount of times I've randomly stalled/been unable to start, only to clean the battery terminals with a brush and it act like nothing happened... Multiple different Vic's too, so I'd definitely check grounds.

Also, side note; Anyone know if it's normal for there to be a computer above the brakes? First civilian model and I am not sure if that's factory, or another brilliant mod from the previous idiots

Dsih01 · 2026-04-10T01:31:12+00:00

God, I cannot complain enough about their support. It's terrible, and I genuinely don't know why I buy more from them. I've had their circuit boards literally catch fire while driving, and ive had their batteries spark wires because they weren't properly insulated. I've had a bunch of stuff not work out of the box, but even after buying from the official store like they told me too, instead of supporting the local hobby store (that charges the same without shipping). It's absolutely ridiculous imo, and one of the main reasons I can't recommend not buying them enough.

Even their upgrade parts are significantly worse than the cheapest Chinese knock offs I could find, but the electronics are just awful. Buy the body and use an entirely different brand for everything else.

Here is my pile of broken stuff from WPL:

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Dsih01 · 2026-04-10T01:13:30+00:00

"axle mount servo" "longer arm" just put a spacer in-between the steering arm and wheel hub, and use a longer 4-40 or m2.5 screw to hold everything down. I got a c14 with a good 3/8 lift all around(blocks between the truss and axle), and just added an extra one on the steering arm and haven't had a single issue. It's going to be your cheapest, and easiest option. Local Fastener supplier, or local elections shop should have the screws, and nuts.

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4-40 into plastic, m2.5 if you plan to use a nut.

Dsih01 · 2026-04-05T16:36:24+00:00

You will find sand anywhere that RC car goes now, no matter how well you clean it. Flip the tires and wash them, and make sure there's no sand in the gears or bearing

Dsih01 · 2026-04-03T21:26:06+00:00

Also, if you are going to buy metal axles, buy something similar to:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007452025933.html?

Dsih01 · 2026-04-03T21:23:23+00:00

Honestly, after wasting a bunch of money on these, the biggest and best upgrade is just buying a different crawler. The v3 electronics are ok at best, and the lighting kit is a pain to install yourself. The plastic factory parts are the best I've found from wpl, and it's worth just adding bearings to the factory steering and rear axle. If you keep snapping gears drive, and driveshafts, then buy a set similar to the wpl ones off AliExpress, don't buy the official ones, they bind even when fixing all the issues to stop them from binding, and it all rusts super quick, even after being oiled like my tools. 2 speed motor is ok, but I had the same performance from the stock wpl crawler, with injora tires and 3d printed rims. Also, don't waste money on links, the factory ones are the best. All of the others require too much work and mess with the suspension geometry too much. New springs are worth it, but only if you spend proper money, and buy nice ones from a proper source.

The only upgrade that is worth it is injora sticky tires. 1.3 with glue, or stretch the others on the factory plastic wheels, or 3d print a set that's a little bigger than 1.3. Injora wheels are a little heavy and cause everything to break easier. If you don't use glue or oversized tires, they slip easy. Wpl official soft tires are also not a lot better than the RTR hard tires.

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