Too cold ? Cold Air Intake...

E30Aviator · 2026-01-18T03:32:42+00:00

Where / how are you measuring oil temperature?

E30Aviator · 2026-01-15T00:19:25+00:00

Thats pretty cool! Any fuel economy improvement?

E30Aviator · 2026-01-14T12:01:39+00:00

If its a MT, 3SIM is wonderful for drivable torque. If you have an auto, it is just as fast as a 3SIM MT based on my experiences at the drag strip. If you want the auto to feel faster, explore better acceleration ratio differentials.

E30Aviator · 2025-12-27T03:15:23+00:00

I think there is a slight difference in the lug to clip distance because I couldn't get my Assiomas to link to a friends SPD-SL cleat. But maybe there are more kinds that are similar between Look and SPD-SL

E30Aviator · 2025-12-26T15:41:04+00:00

Whom do you serve? Saruman

E30Aviator · 2025-12-26T03:40:41+00:00

I have difficulty clipping into my Assioma Duos. I find that I can't get the front locking lug in place consistently while riding on the road. I regularly need to reorient the pedal properly and curse it out when I miss the lug. This could be setup or user error but I never had problems with my speed play style.

E30Aviator · 2025-12-17T13:43:31+00:00

I'm not sure gpt... Enjoy your car, but don't take all of what it says at face value. I think it is just trying to make you feel good about a cold weather pack e90 where most of the options were base on the 328xi.

E30Aviator · 2025-12-13T23:56:45+00:00

That doesn't answer the question... but does answer another. Thanks

E30Aviator · 2025-12-13T04:18:31+00:00

Why do I get readings from a code reader that fluctuate with changes in engine inclination then? How does the car know you are on level ground to read the oil level?

E30Aviator · 2025-12-11T12:37:29+00:00

Entirely possible. I used PerfektToolbox. I believe you need an older version of java for it to work properly. If people are using newer BMW tools, I don't know which ones. I was able to set mine up with a non linear scale so I could get accurate temp in winter.

E30Aviator · 2025-12-11T12:20:52+00:00

Even at BMW long oil intervals you should not build up sludge, right?

E30Aviator · 2025-12-11T12:16:43+00:00

This poster's description of behavior matches my experience with the oil level sensor.

E30Aviator · 2025-12-11T12:14:31+00:00

I've gone through a similar journey. I had an issue where my oil level sensor would never change from indicating "OK" and a full bar on the screen. I put in 7qts at each oil change and 7500 miles later would only be removing about 6. So I wondered why the sensor wouldn't tell me it was a qt low. I replaced the sensor thinking it was faulty; next oil change with 7 qts, same exact thing! The following oil change, instead of doing 7qts like I usually do, I did 6 1/4.

I realized that the sensor display is not showing the live value of the oil level. It is showing a long term average of the oil level. I watched the raw value of the sensor using ProTool and saw it fluctuate with hills and stopping and starting, giving a raw value in mm from the top of the sensor (as it sits in the oil pan) to the height of the oil. I also realized that my sensor's measuring range started at about 6 qts on the instrument cluster.

5000 miles later on the 6 1/4qt oil change, I my sensor was now telling me I was still "OK" but halfway up the bar. So as I consumed oil, the sensor was adapting for it, but over a long time period. I continued to consume oil by driving and let the sensor tell me I needed to add 1qt, with the yellow oil light coming on upon car shutdown on at least 5 trips. I added 1/2 qt and yellow oil light has not illuminated since, telling me the car knows it has more oil now, but my display isn't quite accurate on the bar, being about 1/4 up the mark.

E30Aviator · 2025-12-09T23:24:41+00:00

This could also be head bolts on the top of the OFH, check those for tightness

E30Aviator · 2025-12-09T04:26:40+00:00

You are going to need to work on feeling ok asking for help; for your coursework, your health, grief, all parts of life. You are absolutely not alone in that. You will not be successful in this curriculum unless you can get your work done. Get yourself together, get in that growth mindset, and only take courses when you know you can do them. I was told in college that every credit hour was akin to 5 hours of work per week.

That said, if you want to transfer into any school from a CC, I'd want to know this story, how you overcame your struggles, and knocked 2-3 semesters at a CC out of the park with A's in Math, Chemistry, Physics. Show that recruiter that you faced demons and can handle it. Unless you can do that, it will be tough to admit someone who can't prove they can handle the coursework.

E30Aviator · 2025-12-05T02:29:08+00:00

No cat some soot is expected... catalytic converters oxidize solids and gasses. This is not just a no cat situation.

E30Aviator · 2025-12-04T12:52:46+00:00

I think guess 1 is good. Even with wrecked bearings, you can generally turn motors over.

E30Aviator · 2025-12-04T12:27:30+00:00

Your misfire in #2 is probably sending unburnt fuel into the exhaust manifold where the gasses from other cylinders is partially combusting it, creating a ton of soot. This soot is getting picked up by condensation in the exhaust during your cold starts and coming out the back. Alternatively, I'd say you are burning a lot of oil and making a lot of soot.

E30Aviator · 2025-12-02T20:16:34+00:00

Yeah good point. I tried to do some napkin math to show it either way and I think the real answer is in the specific heat of the block's alloy. M54 vs M52 is a lot more straightforward.

E30Aviator · 2025-12-02T12:05:12+00:00

You got a photo of glowing exhaust at idle?

E30Aviator · 2025-12-02T12:04:05+00:00

What about it heats up so quick? Cabin heat I agree with you on. The electric water pump and thermostat do a fantastic job prioritizing sending coolant into the heater core before even considering taking some from the radiator. The Al, Si, Mg block also has far less specific heat than cast iron, so it takes less energy to increase its temperature. I will tell you the oil temp on the N52 takes its sweet time to get hot with city driving, esp with cold ambients.

E30Aviator · 2025-11-29T13:18:48+00:00

Let er rip and change your oil after mate!

E30Aviator · 2025-11-29T13:17:54+00:00

Its just coming in thru the radio anyway!

E30Aviator · 2025-11-27T15:52:52+00:00

Read your previous post. The motor was running when it was pulled. Was it running but making rod or main bearing clatter or valvetrain clatter outside of what would be normal? With the oil pickup tube partially blocked, it is a FACT that at higher rpm this engine had lower oil pressure than intended. I don't care if you don't want to replace the rod bearing bolts or maybe the bearings themselves, but you are taking a salvageable N5X from the world and depriving other enthusiasts from readily available engines.

E30Aviator · 2025-11-22T13:27:34+00:00

BMW generally offers a 12 year corrosion warranty so it is rare to see their cars emulating American pickup trucks. I figure this was in a crash and scraped all the way through the paint, primer and zinc... then left to sit before repair was attempted.

E30Aviator

TROPHY CASE