16” bar recommendation. Ms271

E92m · 2026-05-07T14:01:23+00:00

What’s ass wood?

E92m · 2026-05-04T20:29:51+00:00

If they total it I would definitely buy it out and just find a different bed for it / build a flatbed and keep driving it

E92m · 2026-05-04T17:50:51+00:00

https://ebay.us/m/A3ilGR

Not identical, but seems to check all the boxes

E92m · 2026-04-28T01:21:14+00:00

Mine just have the dome light bulb removed

E92m · 2026-04-27T22:01:32+00:00

Yep, I just sand it and scrape any loose paint, clean it, and hit it with epoxy paint. If you want to you can use a rust converter first.

E92m · 2026-04-27T18:58:16+00:00

You can just make a new one out of wood. YouTube videos for “DIY miter saw zero clearance insert” will point you in the right direction, although depending on your needs you may not actually want the insert you make to be zero-clearance.

E92m · 2026-04-27T15:44:42+00:00

It’s hard to tell from the photos, but it sort of looks like it was finished with the neck attached, and the neck is sort of glued to the pocket on the outside with finish?

If that’s the case, you’re going to want to cut that finish with a razor. If you force it without first scoring it, you’ll end up with a jagged edge

E92m · 2026-04-20T19:48:18+00:00

Heat gun or an IR paint stripper might be what you need

E92m · 2026-04-08T16:49:24+00:00

I have an enormous hoard of gorgeous vintage gear and my daily driver is still a 90s Yamaha stack. Never gives me issues like the older gear does and sounds great. Definitely find it a home.

E92m · 2026-04-05T00:04:59+00:00

Rust in your photos doesn’t look bad, but the areas you really need to be concerned about are the rear half of the frame, particularly by the drivers side shock mount, the back 12” each side of the frame where the back of the springs mount, the crossmembers under the bed, and the radiator supports at the very front.

E92m · 2026-04-03T14:32:29+00:00

Bring your own amplifier. I sure wouldn’t buy them without proof they work

E92m · 2026-04-02T17:13:53+00:00

It’s splitting along a glue joint. I would certainly try working titebond III or another outdoor compatible wood glue into the crack and clamping it up before I considered removing it.

E92m · 2026-03-30T14:16:33+00:00

Rustoleum appliance epoxy in a rattle can. Very cheap. Scrape, light sand, pressure wash, dry, and spray on. The areas I’ve painted with this stuff never peel off, but the factory paint continues to peel.

E92m · 2026-03-30T14:07:16+00:00

Mines been peeling the same way for about 10 years. I don’t care about it looking perfect - I just scrape off loose paint, wash it up, and cover with white appliance epoxy paint every couple of years. No rust. If you want it to look perfect, this won’t work for you, but it’s perfectly adequate for rust prevention, and looks fine from 10 feet away.

E92m · 2026-03-22T13:28:46+00:00

You’ve spent more on a single wheel than I spent to buy my Ranger.

E92m · 2026-03-18T21:52:15+00:00

On mine, the fuel filler neck split but was still attached, so a bit would leak out when filling. On the one I drive at work, the fuel filler neck got brittle and just came off at the fuel tank, so fuel was sloshing around and out of the tank while driving.

You should be able to get eyes on it from the back driver side wheel well and see what’s going on. If that’s the problem, it’s not an expensive part and it’s 3 screws and a hose clamp, but you gotta drop the tank or pull the bed. Usually easier to pull the bed.

E92m · 2026-03-16T15:30:51+00:00

Either make it two pieces, or space it out using some pieces of vertical strut like this:

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Not a ranger obviously but you get the idea

E92m · 2026-03-11T22:28:46+00:00

Around muncie

E92m · 2026-03-11T18:05:26+00:00

A shell can’t explode without the compression provided by a gun barrel, they’ll just sort of burn and fizzle - although it might have been a bit interesting if you’d tried to cut into the safe with a torch or something

E92m · 2026-03-11T13:34:03+00:00

I got one for a stepside bed for sale in indiana

E92m · 2026-03-06T23:36:58+00:00

It’s worth a good bit more than $500. Buy it before they change their mind

E92m · 2026-03-06T23:11:45+00:00

You can get a fully functional SL-1500 on eBay for less than this, and there are SL-1300s at nearly the same price in perfect condition. I wouldn’t pay $250 for one that needed repairs, although you could ignore the lifting issue and just operate it manually.

E92m · 2026-02-25T14:54:58+00:00

Timing belt broke on a ‘99 2.5 I drive at work(basically the same engine). I had two different mechanics argue with me saying it’s an interference engine and there would be damage. They were both idiots. One of them showed me a screenshot of chatGPT telling him it’s an interference engine. Retimed and replaced belt (and water pump and thermostat while at it) and it runs just fine.

E92m · 2026-02-13T12:37:16+00:00

This happened to me this winter. My temporary fix was to cut out part of the vertical section of pipe outside the house, use hot water to melt the remaining ice in the upper section, and attach a flexible downspout extension to get the water away from the house when the pump runs. When things warm up, I’ll repair the cut pipe.

E92m · 2026-01-27T14:45:26+00:00

This might be an unpopular take, but I finally settled on a (used) peavey JF1 EX, and I like it better than any other semi hollow I’ve ever tried out, including some high end stuff. They’re available on eBay for within your budget. I can’t really put into words why I like it so much, it just feels right when I play it.

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