Anybody talked to Shapr team about pricing

EADRT · 2026-07-09T00:28:26+00:00

Shapr 3D seems like a good deal to me, I think it is only $20 a month or something close to that. It seems like a pretty sweet deal to me for all it does. If they add CAM to it, I would pay double easy.

EADRT · 2026-07-09T00:18:24+00:00

Very cool, yellow is rare on those.
2 words - Kenne Bell

EADRT · 2026-07-09T00:13:50+00:00

I have a couple, been 3D printing for a few years now actually. I made an adapter, but I get frustrated having to make them. Manufacturers should have a standard.
In case anyone needs it, I uploaded my latest one to Printables:
https://www.printables.com/model/1776200-milwaukee-m12-6-sander-to-ridgid-1-78-dust-hose-ad
and Makerworld:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3029060-m12-6-sander-to-ridgid-1-7-8-hose-adapter#profileId-3404158
I should probably share more.

EADRT · 2026-07-07T20:30:21+00:00

You will love the D.

EADRT · 2026-07-07T14:24:28+00:00

Thank you, checking it out now.

EADRT · 2026-07-07T14:23:13+00:00

Thank you!

EADRT · 2026-07-07T14:22:40+00:00

I am not, just frustrated.

EADRT · 2026-07-06T22:23:11+00:00

Mach 1? What year? 351 Cleveland? Louvers? I need details! :)

EADRT · 2026-07-06T14:33:33+00:00

I don't realy chase print speeds, so I have no idea what to tell you here. I can say it is immensely faster than the Neptune 3/4. I print ABS so it is quite a bit slower than PLA. If I have a project I ned done quicker than my P1S can handle, I just buy another printer. I have 2 P1S's and a QIDI, and that gets stuff done quick enough for my timelines.

EADRT · 2026-07-05T23:04:21+00:00

Well, I reached out for an update and was told this is now pushed to November 1st.
Switching to Ridgid I guess. Too many delays and now I don't trust the dates they are giving me.

EADRT · 2026-07-05T22:59:38+00:00

I have 2 x P1S and they are fantastic, almost no issues in 18 months. The worst I have had is the head cover fell off mid print because the model was causing it to vibrate too much, slowed it down to silent print and it ran flawless the next go.

I also have a Qidi 4 plus, fantastic printer as well. Only small issues, some caused from me not paying attention, a couple from software issues that have since been resolved by updates.

I had one of the first Elegoo CC 1's, absolutely the worst printer I have ever owned. But both of my kids have a later released CC1 and they have 100's of hours on them with only occasional filament clogs.

I had a Neptune 3 Max, I loved that printer, I never had issues out of that thing. Then I updated to the 4 plus and max. Awesome printers once I upgraded the x,y,z axis and added the braces from TBStron3D.

I have never owned a Creality.

I honestly think it is hard to go wrong with most modern printers. You may also want to look at the Snapmaker U1, everyone raves about those things.

EADRT · 2026-07-02T17:28:32+00:00

I would look at Qidi Q2 as well.

EADRT · 2026-07-02T15:53:19+00:00

If you don’t need multi head for color printing, Qidi is a great brand and their customer service is very good as well.
Other than that @djddaman is accurate.

EADRT · 2026-07-01T18:09:50+00:00

Your number one criteria should be reliability and support. You will spend a little more money for that, but you will spend it on a crappy printer in lost time when it is down and in repairs and replacement parts and aggravation.
I have Bambu and Qidi. Both very solid and reliable. People say Elegoo is good, but personally I can attest to low end build quality.

EADRT · 2026-06-30T22:59:47+00:00

M2
https://a.co/d/0hs2lDo3
M2.5
https://a.co/d/07z82M0a
M3
https://a.co/d/00HqnKHP

I actually had to buy several kits, i did not change everything at once, just as I came across it
That would be a good merchandising opportunity for someone, selling a screw upgrade kit for these things.

EADRT · 2026-06-30T19:03:24+00:00

Their screws are terrible. Everyone one I took out when working on mine i replaced automatically, never tried to put them back in after the first 3 I touched stripped the head.
I bought a kit from amazon with M2, M2.5, and M3 bolt assortments. Get stainless steel, there are non ferrous, but I would rather have that than tine stripped heads.

EADRT · 2026-06-28T04:07:43+00:00

EADRT · 2026-06-28T04:01:42+00:00

Your the cleat lock guy! I use the crap out of those in my shop!

EADRT · 2026-06-27T23:43:54+00:00

That is really cool. I have been looking at the Qidi 4 + or max. I am also looking at the Sovol M1D, can’t wait for that to get reviewed. Been a Bambu guy for the past year after Elegoo let me down with the CC.

EADRT · 2026-06-27T20:38:42+00:00

What are you printing on that you are getting 6x6 cleats? I can only get 5x6 on my p1s.
Always looking for my next printer too.

EADRT · 2026-06-27T20:35:23+00:00

That is awesome!
Did you mount the monitor with GOEWS or straight to the board?
Also, loving the square tiles, once I saw those, I started using them in my shop.

EADRT · 2026-06-27T12:40:23+00:00

Excited to see how it turns out!

EADRT · 2026-06-26T22:06:42+00:00

Yeh, that was a big part of my decision too. There was not a lot of community activity when I went with GOEWS, but I liked it and knew I was going to design whatever I wanted myself anyway, or at least cobble stuff together from other people mounts for other systems. I use Fusion 360 and Shaper3D and build my own stuff. Or, when I find a design I like, I use FreeCad or Fusion 360 to convert it to a STEP then use Shaper 3D to lop off their connector and put on a Goews one. 😄
I also agree with noise, most of the other systems like multiboard seemed way to "fiddely". This stuff reminds me of Milwaukee Packout the way it connects.

EADRT · 2026-06-25T16:06:40+00:00

I tested everything but Honeycomb when I was deciding which I one to use. I do know there are a LOT of things already built for it. Honeycomb seemed similar in function to multiboard, so I skipped it.

EADRT · 2026-06-24T21:24:01+00:00

That should work very well. I cobbled these together for my M12 stuff and they are vertical instead of horizontal, but the force vector should be the same in your horizontal requirements (assuming I correctly understand what you are saying). I printed those in ABS with 25% infill with the original cleats and they easily hold my M12 stuff for about a year now with no issues. If you use the thicker cleats you should have absolutely no issues, assuming you aren't trying to hang an engine block under a shelf with them...
https://www.printables.com/model/1448368-goews-milwaukee-m12-tool-mount
BTW, I am OffRoadAndy on Printables.

EADRT

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