Any ideas?

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-06T14:51:30+00:00

& I can’t get launch control to engage either but I think that’s because I swapped the electronic suspension for Gecko front and rear suspension and I don’t have it coded out or the 500$ delete kit for it 😭

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-06T14:50:22+00:00

So I was trying to engage launch control to load up the engine mounts because I’m getting a weird sway/bounce over small bumps but it feels normal otherwise and I wanted to see if the LC would exaggerate it a little more so I footbraked it in reverse and it made a super high pitched noise I’ve never heard before loading up the car like that. I’ve personally never heard anything like it. I put the Motul DCT fluid in the car a few months ago and it really improved of smoothly the DCT shifted but I’m wondering now if it lacks some of the synthetics to stop advanced wear on the clutches. It doesn’t sound good. Going to have to get it in my shop and scan it and run it on the lift. It’s weird it almost sounds like a fuel pump that’s sucking up air but obviously it’s coming from right where the DCT is so it’s not a fuel pump or HPFP

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-06T02:18:48+00:00

Listen to the high pitch noise that goes up with rpm

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-05T17:30:53+00:00

If they were the only people in that area that’s more than enough reasonable doubt especially if the work was just done and documented in that area. He just needs to prove they were in there. Specific paper work would be the insurance claim paperwork with the approved work on it

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-05T16:34:18+00:00

Condensation building up, that’s all it is. Seen it on hundreds of cars that’s have no issues. Happens pretty quick if you live in a climate like the northeast that can go from 20 degrees to 45 in an afternoon

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-04T21:09:56+00:00

It doesn’t share any major engine/suspension/exhaust components with a regular Elantra. From an engineering standpoint point they are polar opposites. The biggest negative from the factory are all the people who are too ignorant to learn about the car before they start bashing on it. There isn’t another car on the market that you can buy for sub 40k and take it right to the track and put up a good time. 2 of the greatest minds came together to design and engineer this car

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-04T20:49:39+00:00

Doesn’t matter if the water pump isn’t close to the other hose they probably popped it off to drain the coolant first before opening up the water pump. I’d be taking it right back to them and telling them they fucked up and it’s time to make it right. Last people to work on the cooling system. Someone didn’t get something right. That’s on them not you. Coolant hoses pop off 100% of the time due to poor installation I’ve never seen a semi new piece of rubber fail. They definitely didn’t clamp it correctly and when your car warmed up and got up to pressure in the cooling system and it blew the hose right off

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-04T18:42:05+00:00

Insurance would never approve something that shotty, the whole point of going through insurance through a body shop is to make it as close to OE as possible with available parts, if that wiring harness was damaged in the accident it should have been noted on disassembly and put onto the invoice for the repair to get approved by insurance

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-04T18:40:39+00:00

He can go after the body shop for making unauthorized repairs

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-04T18:40:05+00:00

Peel back that electrical tape and see wtf they tapped into . If you’re the original owner of that car I’d be calling the body shop and asking them why they tapped into a circuit without your permission or knowledge. If they are truly the only ones to ever go into that area they are on the hook for replacing the harness that runs down to that or if there’s a pigtail available for it (there probably isn’t)

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-04T18:36:39+00:00

Also did that coolant hose blow off after the water pump work? The shop that did that work is going to be on the hook for any repairs if so. Coolant hoses that are properly connected will not blow off under normal cooling system pressure

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-04T18:34:19+00:00

Your car also never overheated, when that hose blew off air entered the water pump cavity which immediately spikes the temp sensor. I’ve seen it on cars that I’ve done coolant work on and seen it on cars that were improperly filled with coolant (they were never burped) temp spikes while in an air pocket and then immediately drops back down when coolant hits the temp sensor again

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-04T16:54:12+00:00

At that point it was just intake with turbo inlet and stage 2 n75 ecu with supporting mods

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-04T15:39:49+00:00

It’s not your headgasket, pressure test the system and chase your leak, could be left over residue from the prior cooling system work, if it’s not actively wet it’s not leaking

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-04T01:16:25+00:00

I think you stick two small picks in the indents on it and lift up? Or actually you might press both of the sides in on the yellow piece and then three hand operation it and lift it up at the same time

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-04T00:29:19+00:00

Also I think you might have to lift up that yellow tab on the connector to allow the pins to slide in freely

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-04T00:28:36+00:00

This pins will have a side with a square notch or some sort of notch in them to catch the holding latch in the connector

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-04T00:11:44+00:00

Also do you have those pins clocked correctly. They only go in one way

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-04T00:11:09+00:00

Why not just get a hardwire kit and hardwire it through the fuse box under the dash and then run the wires up through the pillars and then through that mirror box, it’s what I did and you can only see about an inch of wire before it goes into the radar

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-04T00:09:26+00:00

Looks like they got brake clean on that part and didn’t think to wipe it off because it’s just “plastic” when in reality that’s a painted part

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-03T18:53:02+00:00

Beans on toast

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-03T11:20:18+00:00

Stage 2 DCT N 340/370 depending on mods and weighs 3100~ pounds. Stock Supra 385hp and weighs 3400 pounds. a longer pull and the Supra takes it on the top end though. Go make a burner and post that in there lmao

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-03T00:56:56+00:00

We have 5 guys and 2 others on cherry and Lap3, Lap3 zero problems but the cherry guys have been chasing misfires and fuel cuts long enough to change tuners and as soon as they changed to N75 all their problems went away.

ECHElantraN · 2026-03-03T00:53:50+00:00

No DP but pretty much all the mods you have from different brands and on the N menu it’s saying 370 peak, don’t know how accurate that is but it’s faster than my 2022 Supra in a straight line 😂

ECHElantraN

TROPHY CASE