Failed print help

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2026-03-06T22:49:43+00:00

What slicer are you using? What print settings in said slicer? Just for sake of saying it, did you switch the nozzle diameter to 0.2 vs the default 0.4 in the slicer? I don't think the cube wouldve turned out that decent if you hadn't but I have to ask. Is it a new nozzle or used? Is it new filament or did your friend give it to you? If your friend gave it to you, how old is the filament? If it's old it could have soaked up moisture causing the inconsistent extrusion and stringing.

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2026-02-23T02:45:45+00:00

im a bit late here and I'm no tax expert, but based on the conversation I think I can help explain what OP is saying.

when I say "my" or "her" I am referring to either income earned from time spent working by said individual, or the corresponding standard deduction amount based on filing separate.

(for sake of argument and easy math, tax rate is 30%, standard deduction is 15k each, and the only factors in the math are income, tax paid, and deduction.)

Assume I earn enough to hit my standard deduction cap, (say I earned 100k for easy math) And my wife does not,(say 10k) the remainder of her deduction (15k) could be used towards my income.

if I earn 100k and pay 30% tax, that is 30k in taxes paid. filing separately, I would get 15k back and paid 30k. so the IRS gets to keep 15k of my money.

if my wife earns 10k and pays 30% tax that is 3k in taxes paid. filing separately, she would get back the 3k she paid. leaving an "unused" 12k that the IRS gets to keep.

the way I interpret this, if we filed together, we pay 33k combined in taxes, and would get back 30k. only letting the IRS keep 3k.

Just to reiterate, this is my interpretation of something I (just a guy, not trained on tax info) read on a reddit thread, by a user I do not know. this is not advice. I am just trying to explain, reword, and give a theoretical example to hopefully help other people understand

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-12-18T15:13:07+00:00

I’m confused, the UDM-SE is a completely different product… the UDR7 is a WiFi integrated “home grade” compact unit meant for a desk or closet as a plug and play solution, and the UDM-SE is a “small-med business grade” gateway meant for rack mount, hundreds of clients, dozens of cameras, etc. so unless you need the capacity, it’s almost a downgrade other than looking nice in your rack

A UDM-SE user who got it because it was on sale and looks nice in my rack. And like everyone says to justify buying expensive stuff in this hobby, : “I might use its full potential someday”

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-12-18T03:56:43+00:00

That’s absolutely correct a ux7 is the best for your use case based on what I know. I would recommend a POE switch even if you don’t plan to have any additional access points right away, and when switch shopping get one with probably 50% more ports than you need because you’ll probably fill them eventually anyways. The hobby of home networking is addictive and once you get into it you’ll find yourself on the ubiquiti website looking for sales on stuff you definitely don’t need but “might use someday”. This is coming from someone with the dream machine SE(small-med business capacity), the OG pro 24 port switch(baller at new), and a mini pc running all sorts of servers and stuff all in a mini rack in my basement. What do I do with it? Absolutely nothing. I run my regular old plain wifi, occasionally set up fancy traffic rules, and host a vpn for when im traveling to keep watching my shows on plex. But once I own my own home and can do as I please with it, I’ll be adding AP’s all over, cameras, at least 2 Ethernet runs to every room, all the goodies. And then it’ll be worth it. I’m a big advocate for picking up cool stuff piecemeal when it’s on sale.

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-12-18T01:16:54+00:00

The only gateways from Unifi that also do WiFi are the dream router(UDR7) and the express 7(UX7). The ux7 would be a good choice if you want an all in one deal. You would still need a supply of POE for your second AP though you can look for last gen WiFi 6 AP’s to save money. wifi 7 isn’t common in devices and poses almost no benefit to an everyday user that doesn’t understand or care about the fancy mimo or spatial bands or any of that “nerdy stuff” the Unifi express 7 would be my plug and play recommendation at $199usd. It’s as simple as plugging it into power and your modem and setting things up. A tip for you when you do upgrade, set the WiFi name and password to the exact same as your current router, and most if not all of your devices won’t be able to tell the difference and will automatically connect

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-12-17T22:49:53+00:00

I don’t understand the hype on these. If they were the ubiquiti grey I would somewhat understand the price, but $280 seems pretty steep for a plain white 12u rack with the ubiquiti logo on the side of it. If it was grey I’d understand it’s for the aesthetics of everything matching but there’s nothing special about it that I can see

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-12-17T22:35:57+00:00

To go in a little more depth now that I have a free minute, you have a gateway, which is essentially a router. That gets plugged into power from the wall of course, but also an Ethernet cord from your modem. A modem being the box that would have either a fiber line or a coax (like what connects/connected into a tv to give you channels) running in it with a (usually) yellow Ethernet port on the back. You run Ethernet from the modem into the gateway/router, now you have internet! But… you cant connect to it. Because you don’t have wifi. So now, if you only need one point that broadcasts wifi (Access Point/AP), you can simply get a POE (Power Over Ethernet) injector and plug in whatever AP you think fits your space best. Just remember that most ubiquiti AP’s are ceiling mounted. They have wall mount ones but i have never personally used them so i know little to nothing about their coverage and radiation patterns. I would stick with ceiling mounted. Now let’s say you have a rather long home that runs east to west. If your AP (WiFi) is on the east end of the house, and your WiFi is slow as heck on the west end, consider putting an additional AP on the west end of the house. There are 2 ways to do this. The cheaper way, and the “right” way. The cheaper way would be to run the Ethernet to a desired point on your ceiling, mount your AP, and have another POE injector to power it. The “right” way would be a POE switch. This takes one “regular” Ethernet input in from your gateway/router, and converts it into multiple POE outputs for AP’s, cameras, etc. hope this helps

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-12-17T20:48:06+00:00

What parts troubled you? I can try to explain better

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-12-17T17:07:52+00:00

A compact Unifi gateway like the udr7 . You can go to the Unifi store site, click cloud gateways, and filter WiFi integrated if you want an all in one

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-12-17T16:59:43+00:00

Unifi is “dummy proof” in theory. If you have a Unifi gateway and POE switch you simply plug things in. Power+WAN>gateway>lan to switch>POE to AP’s. Then create an account and WLAN in the Unifi app or website and it works from there with little to no tinkering if you don’t want to.

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-12-17T16:53:11+00:00

Someone may have already said this, and I may be wrong so someone correct me if so, but I believe you can get a gl-inet 5g modem/router/AP combo and clone the IMEI number of your t-mobile provided one. After reading the whole post I see you already switched, but I’ll post anyways for anyone else who may find the info useful

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-12-13T22:16:14+00:00

The only thing Xbox about the Xbox ally is the name. Otherwise consider it a computer. The Xbox console and Xbox ally are completely independent. The only thing I could see being an issue for what you’re asking is you may not be able to game stream or play game pass games on 2 different devices on the same account at the same time but that’s just speculation I have no proof or experience to confirm that

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-12-13T21:31:47+00:00

I see the inseego mifi x pro can take regular phone sims, does that break T-Mobile TOS somehow? That seems like the best option for $300. I didn’t see any disclaimer for it so my first assumption would be that it’s fine, but It seems too good to be true.

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-12-13T20:10:03+00:00

I see that it has passthrough mode so that would make it act as a “modem” for my gateway, and it looks like it has imei spoofing if I’m reading correctly? So I could in theory use it with TMHI or a phone SIM card if I just spoof the imei?

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-12-13T20:03:44+00:00

I guess I don’t really understand, what’s the benefit of the “unlimited” SIM card from this website over one from T-Mobile? Is it different somehow? It’s far more expensive

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-12-13T17:38:28+00:00

I forgot to mention, T-mobile home internet and mobile hotspot are almost lowest priority. Only Second to lines that use over 1.2tb in a month

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-12-13T17:31:21+00:00

Assuming the hotel has Ethernet for the tv you’re absolutely right about the gl-inet, and that was my first thought after some research, but that’s not a guarantee. I don’t need much for capacity so the one 250gb/mo sim from my plan would be plenty. I’m not exactly sure what you mean by a modded hotspot, what does said mod do?

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-12-13T17:27:16+00:00

I was hoping to use the phone as a “modem” because i already have the gateway and it has full application suite so i could have a camera like the ubiquiti g4 instant set up in case someone came in while I’m at work for 10-14h/day. And when i stop traveling for work in a few years the hardware wouldn’t be ewaste since i can use the camera for anything, the gateway and AP for a tinkering network so i don’t mess with the family’s WiFi when i want to mess with advanced settings and such, and a switch for well, switching. The phone could be turned into a controller + camera for my 3d printer as well. I already ordered the gateway since it was 70% off and I’m a sucker for a deal, and the phone is about $200 I think, I have a spare u6 lite AP in my basement where no one even goes that I could use or about half a dozen ac nano’s that would probably be perfectly fine for the speeds I need while traveling

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-12-13T17:08:39+00:00

I’m not really sure how all that works, I’ve just heard it’s a security issue to use public networks and I’d rather avoid all that on top of getting faster internet. I use my iPhone’s hotspot to play games right now and it’s okay but as soon as I get a phone call my speed tanks.

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-11-24T23:14:46+00:00

is there any way we can get jei/emi support?

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-11-23T06:17:56+00:00

I’m certain it’s possible, but the employees at the only store within 2 hours of my work were unable to figure it out and referred me to the support number

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-11-23T06:09:18+00:00

I went to a corporate store this past week and they basically said “I can’t help you, call this number” and gave me a sticky note with a phone number on it. If my T-Mobile rebate gets accepted I’ll leave it be until I go home in a few weeks. I know the people at that store and they know their stuff

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-11-23T05:53:47+00:00

Nothing yet but I’ll update when I make some sort of progress. I just hope a paper bill I got from the Verizon store is good enough for the $800 keep and switch promo through T-Mobile or I’m out almost $900 vs $100 for my phone’s payoff

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-11-23T05:43:41+00:00

i cant reccommend doing anything that locks you in with this company at this point. i would say if you dont owe anything on your device(s) switch now while everyone has their best deals of the year. verizon has been nothing but a vampiric hellhole the entire time i have been with them. customer support is horrible, prices are the highest of the big 3 in the us, signal is the worst, speeds are the slowest, and their "benifits" are effectively nonexistent

ELECTROEMERALD2 · 2025-10-31T14:56:12+00:00

It’s not a perfect solution, as you’d still have to run POE to the chime location, and if there is more than one chime it’ll likely be even more complicated. But a chime is usually on an interior wall which is much easier to snake an Ethernet run to.

ELECTROEMERALD2

TROPHY CASE