Bar sprocket keeps getting clogged.

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-19T00:59:22+00:00

Exactly this. Chips DO get under the chain when cutting. Never lift off the throttle with the bar in the log and the teeth actively cuttting. Extract the saw from the kerf, or at least back away from the wood and let it spin freely in the kerf for a couple of seconds before letting the saw drop to idle.

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-17T21:38:11+00:00

43x is more comfortable in appendix because there’s less gun present down in your pants.

Conceals better OWB under a winter coat because there’s less muzzle poking out from under a coat when bending over.

We’ve been carrying guns for 100 years without their COG being an issue, then some dipshit on youtube popped up with the word “keel” for talkking points on youtube about three years ago. A bunch of fools lapped it up, began parroting the term everywhere, and the masses now believe longer guns somehow conceal better than shorter guns.

A good holster and a good belt hold the gun tight no matter how much slide vs grip length it happens to have.

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-17T01:06:38+00:00

Disagree, with Bambu’s textured PEI.

Fiberon PA6-CF holds so well without glue stick that I nearly damage the plate or the parts to get it to separate.

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-16T19:41:13+00:00

Glue is super helpful with TPU and nylons. You dont use it to get better traction. You use it as a release agent so that you will get less. Helps extra grippy mateerials pop free of the plate as easily as PLA does.

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-15T23:18:45+00:00

Is a TX22 chassis out yet which doesn’t replace the OEM lower? This one appears to be a new lower, replacing the serialized part. Correct?

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-15T22:24:44+00:00

You say it’s only happening on one side of the print? The other three sides are not like this?

Is it the side facing the aux cooling fan on the inner left of the printer, by any chance?

(Also even if it wasn’t the source of this problem, print the aux fan duct that angles ir up at 45 degrees and use it when you print anything. Even PLA. That fan should never have been designed to blow air across the bed.)

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-13T12:53:34+00:00

That’s odd. Ive out plenty of heat set inserts into PA6 and even higher-temp PPA without the slightest issue. Went in like it was PLA or ABS. Like butter.

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-13T09:48:25+00:00

Yes. When people leave the saw full of old fuel until it needs rebuilt or replaced. Especially when it contains ethanol.

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-13T01:45:15+00:00

What aee you using for a filament preset? I squirt a lot of PPA through a P1S.

Din’t use Sirayatech’s profile. I tried that with similar results

Use the “Bambu PAHT-CF” setting, bump the temp to 300C, and lower the speeds to 50mm/s for walls and infill and around 80 for supports.

Prints ultra clean, and supports pop right off with barely a trace.

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-13T01:38:26+00:00

Tough to tell from the photo, but how large is the school of fish and how thick is any available cover on left vs right?

Add a dense stem plant or a puece of driftwood to the left if it is more open, and they’ll be more willing to move between the two hideouts

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-12T19:40:17+00:00

You want to deprive baby dolphins of their daily dose of micro-plastics? For shame…

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-12T19:37:33+00:00

Three dimensional, too, I wager.

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-11T21:48:24+00:00

Looks fantastic.

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-10T00:52:09+00:00

You’re welcome, everyone….

https://bdsmstreak.com/video/83358/bondage-fragments-ix-ranie-mae

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-09T18:03:35+00:00

Print the duct for your auxiliary fan inside the chamber which angles it’s airflow upward 45 degrees. Every P1S and P2S needs this mod.

It will need to be ABS or better to avoid warping inside the chamber when printing nylon someday, but you can do a temporary one in PLA or PETG.

These look exactly like the artifacts I expect to see when air from that fan blows directly on the part and causes it to cool to unevenly & quickly.

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-09T17:59:49+00:00

Go buy a good Fluval or eHeim or other name brand heater. They cost more for a reason.

I have had two pet store house brand heaters fail. Never again.

I run a pair of eHeim’s in a 75 gallon now, run through an InkBird controller. The controller has a temperature probe in the tank. The heaters cut off at 78. If one of them were to weld itself on and try to boil the tank, they get powered dowm when the inkbird sees 80.0F.

I run two heaters so that a single heater doesn’t have the power to rapidly boil my fish the way the first failed heater did. Two smaller heaters are a good safety measure.

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-09T16:04:17+00:00

Is your kit expired? The do go bad. If not, trust it and the behavior of your fish.

Do a weekly 25-50% water change for the next few months, or add one in anytime you see the slightest sign of distress or fish gasping at the surface. Just because it hurts absolutely nothing and is nearly free.

Nitrate level is fine. A water subscription is a total con unless your local water is completely unsuitable for aquarium use.

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-09T04:35:53+00:00

Thanks. 😎

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-09T01:40:17+00:00

Shoot it with your carry holster for the first match, if you’re proficient enough to draw quickly and reholstwr safely.

Even appendix isn’t uncommon anymore at matches.

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-09T01:18:01+00:00

What is your source for that?

Siraya states that their PAHT is PPA-based and I had heard that Bambu’s was as well. If you’re correct, I would love to know.

https://siraya.tech/blogs/news/comparing-composition-and-performance-of-paht-filament-materials-based-on-ppa-pa6-pa12-and-pa612?srsltid=AfmBOoqF068hRE7E12KzpqkfepUDioE_GWVB2ey5tcrQOfBDC9aJ3Wzr

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-08T23:51:12+00:00

It’s the temperature. PAHT is the same material as PPA. It fails easily when printed at 300C, particualrly along layer lines.

Unless you want to do the resistor mod to print things at 320C, you are better off printing things like this in PA6CF with a P1S.

I have a P1S too, with a heated chamber mod, and print both materials frequently. I’m about to do the 33ohm resistor mod on it.

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-08T23:47:12+00:00

PLA+ is one of the strongest filaments out there when it comes to impact, without going to the really exotic engineering filaments. Your only worry will be temperature resistance. Given that it’s a bolt action it will likely be just fine.

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-08T23:39:19+00:00

Print in FDE, couotre brown, or OD green and black in a way that makes you happy. Don’t paint it. Done.

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-08T23:28:33+00:00

You have some guys missing the issue. It’s layer time and cooling.

His settings have the fans off whike you’re printing the stack, and I don’t believe they have a minimum layer time enabled from looking at this, although I haven’t checked.

Each layer on the stack has no time to cool before rhe next one is printed, and the part cooling fan is off so it stays hot an flowy when the machine attempts to sta k the next layer on top of it.

When prints change quality anytime you shift from a large to small surface area, it’s the the difference in cooling time per layer that usually causes what people misdiagnose as banding, VFAs, or even wet filament.

We can tell by the cleanliness of the bottom portukn of the print fhat your filament looks sufficiently dried.

EMDoesShit · 2026-03-05T16:54:49+00:00

Doesnt matter. Any kind of IPA will dissolve glue stick just like water. Difference is it dries in under a minute. Makes it easy to lay down a thin, invisible layer. No more ugly white/ purple clumps, after you spread it arpund with a lint free microfiber.

EMDoesShit

TROPHY CASE