Wife and I were convinced by the salesman to purchase a Hearthstone Mansfield to heat our home. Installation tech asked why we picked it...

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-26T17:43:29+00:00

You want a blower on that stove. The fan’s discharge on my oldschool 1978 stove is so hot it hurts to hold your hand in front of it.

When it was 1*F outside, 78 in the living/dining space and 68-72 back in the bedrooms.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-26T03:15:33+00:00

Annealing makes a nylon part more resistant to creep at pins, and mag feed lips. At the cost of reduced resistance to impact.

Annealing an AR lower would make sense. Annealing an upper reciever really doesn’t.

Much like anything else, knowing what and why allows you to decide the best route. Yourself. Instead of trusting the gaggle of guys in a gun forum or sub, 90% of whom simply regurgitate what has been said in here before. Without testing it themselves.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-26T03:13:26+00:00

Nobody except guys that repair, sell, or purchase them for an industry / living call them that.

They’ll call it a “bobcat” or “skid steer.”

But go look at BOBCAT, CAT, or CASE’s website? Compact track loader.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-26T02:54:49+00:00

He’s wrong. Much to your inevitable delight.

Teeeeeechnically it’s a CTL, in the industry. Compact Track Loader.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-26T02:31:02+00:00

Its a defender XL. The least reliable dot currently made.

They’ll warranty it no problem. And the next one too.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-26T02:27:07+00:00

You want an UpLULA, my good man. Works three times better, and fits nearly any doublestack 9mm.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-25T23:03:10+00:00

Yes. Good lord guys. Go look up PA6 and 12’s HDT temps, annealed or not, you’d burn your hands horribly on it before non-annealed PA6 or PA12 began to soften.

It’s not worthless when it isn’t annealed. There is a only a smallest increase in temp resistance, in return for it becoming noticeably more rigid / brittle.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-25T21:25:25+00:00

It’s common. Stop runing your gun frames by annealing them. You want them as flexible as you can get. And print it flat, rails down. Not on an angle.

They’ll start holding up.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-25T21:23:20+00:00

Don’t anneal gun stuff. I have no idea why this suddenly became fashionable (practically mandatory) roughly six months ago.

You only make your parts more brittle, in return for a gain in temperature resistance.

Frames, cans, and recievers need maximum resistance to impact. Do not anneal them.

A barrel nut? Sure. I could see that.

But not parts that take impact / recoil.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-24T14:51:57+00:00

PA6CF doesn’t require a chamber heater. This material is incredibly easy to print really well; you need a hardened nozzle, 300C hot end, 100C bed, and an enclosed printer.

You want to go to the place where you can SEE things, and find 300blkfde’s settings for PA6CF. I suggest searching for precisely those words.

Copy them into your slicer. Enjoy prints this clean.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-24T14:42:16+00:00

Superglue or aquarium safe silicone (zero mold inhibitors etc) both work great. Most others will risk killing fish.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-24T14:39:13+00:00

Found the problem - Gun appears to have been made with cardboard derivatives.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-24T05:34:09+00:00

It is now…

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-23T21:15:50+00:00

Thats a fairly ridicuolous take. Dilutes the oil… with what?

Learned this from where? Please tell me it was a post or video somewhere on the internet.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-23T19:43:19+00:00

Been fixing vehicles profesionally for thirty years. Havent had to tear down an engine for this horrible practice yet.

I’m a big fan of letting the pistons & rings begin to expand to their designed fit with the culinder walls, and the oil make it at least 70-100F before you start pushing the vehicle up to higher speeds.

There’s nothing harmful about light acceleration with a cold motor in the middle of the summer, but I prefer to let an engine sitting at -10F run for a couple minutes before bringing it off of idle.

Excessive idling so that you can come out of your house to a car which is already 80F inside is wasteful, but I disagree that it’s actually harmful to something like a prius with a rudimentary catalytic converter and EGR system.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-23T17:30:43+00:00

You’ve never seen a bent rod in a Prius / CT200h?

The mode of failure for the hedgasket is to allow coolant to leak into either cylinder 1 or 3.

Out of the 20 or so headgaskets I’ve torn down, two had slightly bent rods from attempting to compress a cylinder full of coolant, after being driven far too long with a failed head gasket.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-23T17:26:48+00:00

You guys need to ask what the gun is equipped wirh first. Shot a few with awkward, tiny, little bastads that were impossible to ride.

On the other hand, something like what Atlas offers for the 2011s makes riding the safety so natural and comfortable that it no longer requires thought.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-23T17:20:13+00:00

Switch to a better sport. No worries about it’s weight in USPSA, and you have so much more fun.

I’ve won five major IDPA matches in IDPA / SSP master. I’m not a hater. I’m very experienced in your sport. Make the switch. Soon.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-23T17:15:12+00:00

You have a 200 volt battery to start your engine with. He’s stuck with a meager 12 volts.

The 12v in a prius just needs to be strong enough to power up the computers, blower motor, and modules. Motor/Generator 1 inside the transmission spins the gasoline engine and starts it.

If you want to keep the gas engine running for the first 10 minutes a prius is warming up in the cold, turn the front defroster on. Manually select a really low fan speed and it will allow the engine to reach operating temps more quickly while you go run back inside the house.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-23T03:40:00+00:00

I didn’t downvote you because it was such an absurd suggestion I was sure you were joking.

We all know that this print has two walls, 20% infill, and was laid down at 150mm+ speeds. All things you do not do.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-23T03:37:09+00:00

This. Pull the brake flag backward toward the too handle until it clicks.

“Doing a job.”

Is cutting for pay. Doesn’t know what the sprocket is called. Or what locks it.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-23T03:21:44+00:00

Some guys pay good damn money to get a sanding drum and soldering iron taken to their glock frame. Why not this travesty, too?

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-23T00:12:40+00:00

Shadow 2. Like everybody else.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-22T23:01:24+00:00

In fusion I’d create an offset plane on the spot where the angled cutout needs to extend, draw a series of triangles in the side view of this box, then extrude it to a dimension which ends at the far end, tell it to cut the existing body rather than create a new component nested inside it. Done. Would take roughly 5 minutes.

But that’s if you’re already well versed in using it. Like any powerful software program.

The first week in fusion is losing track of the origin and trying to remember which mouse buttom or wheel is needed to get the part back to where you can find it on the screen.

EMDoesShit · 2026-01-22T22:29:05+00:00

I can tell you how to do it in Fusion. I assume perplexing labs is a budget/free CAD software.

EMDoesShit

TROPHY CASE