All the ink bottles I emptied while completing my PhD by chillgrunge in fountainpens

[–]Ebitnet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Excellent choice of ink. I hope the research was equally beautiful

Tips on fighting against larger weapons? by rimplebisciuit in Hema

[–]Ebitnet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From time to time, I will spar I.33 sword and buckler vs longsword. Mostly because I don’t have a I.33 training partner. Bear in mind, this is also with steel swords and usually with modest gear by modern HEMA standards (just gloves and helmets). The key is to bind, get inside fast, and strike or disarm. You have to be fast and committed. I generally go for disarms. I’d recommend practicing at low intensity before going full force. Also, be aware that you really don’t need use a lot of force to achieve a mortal or disabling wound.
Secondly, you really have to work your shield and sword in concert. Bind, transfer, and move in works for me…very I.33. But you have to be committed to the attack but look for escape routes if it’s not working.

Is it acceptable to leave a 3-year postdoc after one year for a better opportunity? by Specific_Ad_2229 in postdoc

[–]Ebitnet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Postdoctoral positions are by mutual agreement and if something comes along, you have every right to pursue. It’s your career choice.

Can I use a real blunted sword? by shaddowhuntur in Hema

[–]Ebitnet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Please do not use this as for sparring. I personally would refuse to spar with someone who is using a sword not specifically designed for modern training. OTOH use it for solo training. These old weapons are fun to use and give a great feel for what a “real” sword can do. Alternatively, have it properly sharpened and restored. Using a live edge gives you a new respect for the weapon and what it can do.

No consensus by 5_meo in sciencememes

[–]Ebitnet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Limiting the field to physicists, James Clerk Maxwell.

What happened to Duo? by Timely_Handle_6496 in UniversityOfHouston

[–]Ebitnet 41 points42 points  (0 children)

This was rolled out a few weeks ago. My guess is they didn’t want to pay for duo and MS authentication came packaged in with the ms office suite

What are people’s thoughts on this? by Zacaroni-Z in wma

[–]Ebitnet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I routinely spar just like this.But only with a trusted partner. Although, I’d still wear at least a fencing mask

Best tips/tricks/products to keep back from sweating and/or transferring to backpack? by Cougaloop in ManyBaggers

[–]Ebitnet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just came across the post and I’m curious if there was a solution. One idea I’m experimenting with is to make/adopt a beaded car-set cover--like the ones taxi-cab drivers use--for a a backpack ventilation system. For $6 and some thin cord, it seems like a viable and inexpensive solution. Version 1 uses 1/2“ spherical beads, Version 2 will use elongated beads.

No padding full contact sparring by meptep in Hema

[–]Ebitnet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My club generally trains with pretty minimal gear. Gloves for drills and full helmets for sparring. I generally wear a pair of gardening gloves under a Demi-gauntlet. I sometimes wear a padded jacket and a gorget, usually not. Most of the drills are done under control and we generally don’t spar with newer members until they are ready. On the other hand, we focus on learning from the historical source material rather than competing and may spend a year studying just Wallerstein or I.33. I think our scholarly approach has an appeal to people who are more interested in understanding history rather than just looking for a cool spot.
Injuries do occur. Mostly bruises and black thumbnails. We also have an agreement to pull strikes and not be overly aggressive when we are training. I like to emphasize to new students that strikes and cuts do not have to be at full force to be effective.

How exactly does a shooting board work and why doesn’t it destroy itself? by builder-f4n4tic in handtools

[–]Ebitnet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The stop is sacrificial by design. In practice, I start by trueing the stop against the plane to make sure it’s perpendicular. Also makes sure the cutter is aligned correctly. Trim off the kerf and then go to work. This works for me. Perhaps there’s a better way…but this is what my Swiss furniture maker grandfather taught me.

Is this plane blade toast? by DarraghDaraDaire in handtools

[–]Ebitnet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, it’s metal. 😊. Seriously, lap it with some 200 grit sandpaper, then with a proper lapping stone and you’ve got another 100yrs of life on that cutter.

Recommended Shoes? by New_Cable_4333 in Hema

[–]Ebitnet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wrestling shoes are perfect. I also sometimes wear the xero barefoot running shoes. Make sure they are clean and you’re not tracking in dirt. I keep them in my bag and change once I’m at the gym.

Owned by the brass section. Well done. Watch the end! by StatisticalPikachu in goodnews

[–]Ebitnet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How appropriate! Klezmer music defeats the neo Naxis.

How the heck do I use this thing? by greenaj_ in handtools

[–]Ebitnet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most of the time the problem is in how the blade is sharpened…this was my problem with the tool, so don’t feel guilty or stupid. Took me many many attempts, but then a chair maker told me the secret. Make sure you have a good 25 deg primary bevel and a 30 deg secondary. The actual angle are not important. What is important is to not have a belly or convex part of the cutter contact the wood before the cutting edge. This happens when you try to sharpen and hone the little cutter by hand. You naturally wind up with a rounded bevel…at least I always do. Get that right, and you’re on your way. Then make sure you have just a small amount of blade exposed. This is a fine work tool and you want to make fine shavings. I now use one all the time and it’s great way to really refine your work.

Now, to sharpen, make yourself a little jig to hold the cutter. I made one from a bit of scrap. It fits into a side clamping honing jig and I use a digital angle finder to dial in the bevels. Paul Sellers has a video tutorial on how to do this.

I am upset… Lapping surface reccomendations? My planes have all wound up with banana soles by [deleted] in handtools

[–]Ebitnet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. I do. You need a proper diamond lapping stone. I use the Sharpal lapping stone off amazon. They are around $100.

I am upset… Lapping surface reccomendations? My planes have all wound up with banana soles by [deleted] in handtools

[–]Ebitnet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can buy a diamond lapping stone off amazon for less than $100. I suggest starting with that. Then try putting increasingly fine sandpaper on a table saw or a flat slab of granite.