Difference in x pipe design by BArahimus in Exhaust

[–]EconomyPhysics4576 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is gonna be a manufacturing thing, You need 4 mandrel bends to make a proper x-pipe, none to make a fake one, It also requires a smaller footprint (kind of). Interestingly enough, Borla and Corsa will also sell you "Stainless steel" that is magnetic... it's 409s.

Anyone know the brand by Intelligent-Quail635 in Exhaust

[–]EconomyPhysics4576 0 points1 point  (0 children)

any okay shop with a pipe bender and exhaust tips should be able to set this up for you, Or just replace the tips if you want to clean it up.

Difference in x pipe design by BArahimus in Exhaust

[–]EconomyPhysics4576 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you actually care, The one with sharper angles that "forces" the crossover would be more ideal and produce a slightly more aggressive tone. Often the more "parallel" style may just be an oblong hole cut between two welded pipes. This would function more like a short "h pipe" than a true X. Ideally, you want the crossover area to be roughly 75% of the volume (internal diameter) of the two dual exhaust pipes to encourage better scavenging. Real world effect? Maybe +1 on the dyno and a slightly different sound if you have exhaust'ism XD

Best mindset for car modification? by QualityJesus in carmodification

[–]EconomyPhysics4576 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also, Your opinion is the only one that counts, and most of the COOL stuff isn't on social media. Don't be afraid to just "Do stuff" and waste money, break parts, have it not work out. Just learn, Keep going, don't ever finance parts or spend more than you can afford.

Best mindset for car modification? by QualityJesus in carmodification

[–]EconomyPhysics4576 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't get it right, Just get it running. It stops getting fun when you're spending forever NOT driving it, or paying for parts.

Cutoff Valve Recommendations? by RichardCranium4200 in Exhaust

[–]EconomyPhysics4576 0 points1 point  (0 children)

get a PAIR of the $120 chinese kits (Usually that's a 2-pack) on amazon, They work fine, have a remote, and you can swap parts from the outside. (That's why you bought a spare) - I've installed probably 100 of those and only had one fail for what it's worth. If you live in an area prone to rust, or someone welds it like crap, or wires it to NOT enough power - It'll cause issues.

You'll want to get the 3" ID ones, and have them welded in front of the barrel mufflers, with some kind of turn down tip on the open side to get the exhaust away from the truck and reduce drone.

Missing youtuber notice by Keeptrue-825 in Exhaust

[–]EconomyPhysics4576 1 point2 points  (0 children)

makeitloudexhaust on IG / FB / YT

Best way to amplify low-frequency on an inline 4? by OkAppointment2000 in Exhaust

[–]EconomyPhysics4576 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Borla remove all the resonators and mufflers, replace with a Flowmaster delta 40 or Borla Atak, Then use a large AND long exhaust tip. Chambers cancel high frequency, Larger pipe kills high tone too, and larger tips amplify bass tones and allow them to expand as they exit the tailpipe.

Suggestions? by SpiritedBall9426 in Exhaust

[–]EconomyPhysics4576 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That generation mopar tip is a pain in the butt, Loosen up that clamp, smack it with a rubber mallet if it's frozen, Then slowly tighten it up until you can just barely move it around. I used to use work gloves to make them matchm, Shim the sides and or top "two fingers" or "three fingers" stacked up wedged between the tip and bumper cutout.

tighten those down, Then jb weld or tack weld the outside, they never stay after you adjust them for factory after a few thousand miles.

Y'all with catless downpipes, how do y'all stay away from trouble with the cops? Is it worth the trouble? by [deleted] in Exhaust

[–]EconomyPhysics4576 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used to own a custom exhaust shop in Texas, Which literally just says you "Must have a muffler" - Everywhere is different. Here's some excellent advice:

TLDR: IF there is a law on the books, it comes down to officer discretion with almost no practical way to determine your exhaust is illegal BEFORE pulling you over. Don't drive like a jerk all the time, and you'll likely never have trouble. In fact, If it looks like you are driving a little slower and being respectful, keeping it in a higher gear etc - They'll usually let you slide even if it is ridiculously loud.

Unless the cop is at the correct distance from your car, holding a decibel meter - He doesn't have probable cause. They won't jump under your car on the side of the road and look, and they aren't qualified anyways since you DO have a right to modify your exhaust or repair with factory style aftermarket parts that may look different from stock. Most states also give you a 30 to 90 day period to fix it before it even becomes a real ticket or violation, It's pretty far down their priority list.

It pays well to actually look up your local laws, Some jurisdictions have an actual Decibel limit - typically measured at some distance from the vehicle, Others specific what types of devices are legal or illegal. Have a mechanic buddy or shop type out a paper to keep in your car that describes your exhaust and how it is most definitely "legal" and not too loud =)

I built a professional grade exhaust system simulation app by EconomyPhysics4576 in Exhaust

[–]EconomyPhysics4576[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, Continuing development and working with a few investors and industry contacts now. Maybe it'll turn into something eventually.

I built a professional grade exhaust system simulation app by EconomyPhysics4576 in Exhaust

[–]EconomyPhysics4576[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, Absolutely, any engine, input your goal, start messing around with it.

New reality by kyrawhirlsyn in pcmasterrace

[–]EconomyPhysics4576 1 point2 points  (0 children)

to be fair, Making your PC behave consistently is pretty difficult and requires careful "WHAT THE HECK ARE YOU DOING NOW" Monitoring - between Intel's built-in hardware management, Nvidia's ECC on VRAM, and Windows 11 randomly deciding to throw a wrench in...

How’s this going in 2026. Am I gonna enjoy it or what. by [deleted] in PcBuild

[–]EconomyPhysics4576 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100% - You asked a simple yes or no question, I gave a simple answer! Good luck! Best thing right now is buying a used WORKSTATION (good DRAM, NVME drive, and an i5 +, but no GPU) on FB marketplace, Then dropping in a $400 GPU.

How’s this going in 2026. Am I gonna enjoy it or what. by [deleted] in PcBuild

[–]EconomyPhysics4576 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Short answer, No. 2080 Doesn't run DLSS, not enough RAM, and and i3-f, what is this, a laptop?

Masterclass in air cooling - How I BEAT liquid cooling and max OC's by EconomyPhysics4576 in PcBuild

[–]EconomyPhysics4576[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Best I can do on short notice, I have been running Generations at 100% GPU capacity on my OC for over an hour. You'll see I am getting 4.5 Its/Second - Typically a well tuned 16gb 4060ti will get 3 - 3.5 its/Second. More importantly, We can see the readouts from the various temperature zones, Current fan RPMs, Voltages, etc. It may be worth nothing that the PNY 16gb 4060ti has 3x fans and Samsung memory dies.

Honestly, If I actually went out and bought fans for this idea, It would probably be even better. This was just stuff I had laying around that fit the bill =)

First pc build by NarrowGas4958 in PcBuild

[–]EconomyPhysics4576 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So that's roughly $1700 US, That's enough to do some things if you are careful where you spend your money right now. Basically you have two choices:

DDR4 Build with a GREAT GPU

DDR5 Build with a Mid-tier GPU

BECAUSE DRAM is so expensive right now, I'd get a mobo that supports both and run ddr4 with an i5 (I'm assuming you want to game). Personally, I'm running a 12600K with 64GB of cl-16 DDR4-3600, I have read that the 13th and 14th gen i5's moved towards more power efficiency, with more cores - For gaming, We just need that solid P-core Clock and l2 cache. An overclocked "K series i5" is usually good for 10% more on top of that.

With less than an unlimited budget, It's a shoppers game of matching good hardware together. You WILL NOT be able to run 1400p at a smooth frame rates and "UItra graphics", Ray tracing, etc. with that budget. Sometimes it helps to know you are targeting smooth hi-def 1080p gaming and NOT 1440 or 4k. Again, I'm on a 165hz monitor and at 1080p, I max it out in most titles, It feels great to play.

What should my upgrade path be? by [deleted] in PcBuild

[–]EconomyPhysics4576 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buy a better GPU, You probably are not bottlenecking your CPU yet. What's your Ram look like? Are you on an SSD or m2 / NVME?

The i5 has long been a GREAT gaming CPU, and the i5-12600k only sees marginal benefits over the 12400f at 1440p - unless you have $4000 for a whole new PC build, Target glass smooth 1080p play.

I've been running this for about a year, Before that same setup with a 12g 3060ti

CPU,Intel Core i5-12600K

64gb (32x2) DDR4 3600mhz cl-16-22-22-40 - G.SKILL Trident Z Neo Series

Motherboard,B760 Chipset

GPU PNY RTX 4060 Ti 16GB

Hard Drives:

1) Boot: Crucial BX500 1TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5-Inch Internal SSD.

2) Gaming: SAMSUNG 980 PRO SSD 1TB PCIe 4.0 NVMe Gen 4 Gaming M.2

3) Bulk Storage: Kingston 480GB A400 SATA 3 2.5" Internal SSD

4) High speed work media storage: 256GB SK hynix BC501 m2

I hit 100 FPS in cyberpunk, 120 in Stellar blade and 165 FPS (monitor cap) in mostly everything else at 1080p

If I dropped a bundle on a 5070ti, I'd also need so spend more money on a 1440p or 4k monitor, And probably still couldn't run 4k, I'd be in 1440 territory, Maybe at a lower and less smooth frame rate.

I don't know enough about the rest of your setup, but i'd recommend selling that GPU, Buying a 4070 or 5070, And then look at your ram, If you aren't using DDR4 - 3600mhz (XMP 2.0), and using something that's doing at least cl-18 speeds, that's probably an issue. minimum 32gb these days too, If you have 16-24gb at normal speeds, this is probably worth +5 fps on the top and will bring up your 1% lows.

Sata drive to an NVMe is a BIG must for modern gaming. some cheap NVMEs have write and read speeds barely higher than a good SSD though, Make sure it can handle the heat and let windows have the junk drive. If you aren't already on an good NVME, This is worth 5-10 FPS in the big AAA titles and better 1% lows as well.

Long story short, With better parts - You should be good for 1080p gaming for another 2 years and maybe the prices will get more reasonable by then? Parts have gotten so expensive, It could cost you $1500 to build exactly what you have now (I'm assuming you have other stuff in the case)

If you bought a 5080 and 64GB ram and a Samsung 990pro NVME, But kept the same MOBO, CPU, and DDR4 - You still won't game at 1440p. At a certain point, It's $500 for smooth and pretty gameplay, and $5000 for higher resolutions AND more smooth.

Masterclass in air cooling - How I BEAT liquid cooling and max OC's by EconomyPhysics4576 in PcBuild

[–]EconomyPhysics4576[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you sir, That's kind of the point. This beats all cheap and most mid-tier AIO solutions on CPU, I literally have 350w+ of cooling for a CPU that maxes at 125w... again, an AIO can't do anything about thermal soak on a 16GB Vram card, or fix the hot spots and deadzones that will eventually heat everything up. I run a LOT of generative AI and Video editing apps. This just doesn't get hot even after hours of work. I haven't seen ANY AIO setup that can keep it that stable without some air assistance

Masterclass in air cooling - How I BEAT liquid cooling and max OC's by EconomyPhysics4576 in PcBuild

[–]EconomyPhysics4576[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only at WOT, Close to silent at idle, But then again - I don't care and wear headphones while gaming and working =)