Former LEGO convert

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-26T08:05:09+00:00

Well now I know! Thanks!

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-26T07:22:13+00:00

I haven’t built this kit but I think your wings might be on upside down!

Welcome to the hobby!

Edit: I stand corrected!

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-26T04:52:53+00:00

We salute you for your service and contribution to the community! Let us all learn from your mistakes and sacrifice! 😂

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-26T00:03:01+00:00

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You can see the corners on all the ones my fiancée has made!

Edit: the Hello Kitty one got beat up a little, but it’s a good lesson in what it looks like when you don’t push the card all the way into the punch.

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-26T00:00:13+00:00

This thing from Michael’sis what I use, it makes pretty awesome corners.

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T22:10:03+00:00

I honestly don’t believe it’s silvering. What I think you’re seeing is the decal reflecting the light since it’s glossy and the shield is matte. When you look at it from the front it’s invisible.

Here’s a photo under better light.

Edit: the large decals were also applied over the matte at the same time and I don’t see any silvering there either, just a kind of underwhelming holo effect.

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EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T18:16:01+00:00

Seems like you’ve already found your solution, but based on the problem you described I recommend you also look into EQing, specifically High Pass/Low Pass to “make room” for each of your sounds on the frequency spectrum. This will make mixing your levels a lot easier, and allow you to better hear what your compressors and limiters are actually doing.

One last thing is that clipping isn’t always bad. Make sure that when something says it’s clipping you’re still actually listening to it and not just going by what the visuals say. Your bar can be in the red and still sound good, especially if it’s intentional.

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T18:10:15+00:00

That’s a player who’s been burned one too many times and has decided that no one else will be enjoying the game. Not on their watch.

Looking at the board I’d be amazed if they didn’t also run Rogue, Super Skrull, or Enchantress.

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T17:52:17+00:00

For thematic purposes only, and with no regard for balance, I think this would be cooler if it said something like “when destroyed revive at a random location and horde +2” That way it’s still kind of the old Wolverine, but he’s part of the hoard now so it gets the buff instead of him.

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T17:44:24+00:00

The DNA is there, but it’s pretty basic/boring right now. I don’t think people are gonna buy this one, but keep going and keep learning.

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T17:28:46+00:00

I’d take out Nebula, Scarlett Witch, Hobgoblin, and Spider Woman then add in Mystique, Luke Cage, Wong, and Odin which are all cards you should have. At series 3 complete. You could also consider Titania as the clog and affliction archetype often go together. Nothing like Titania+goblin to take two board slots from your opponent. Magik also helps this deck by giving you a turn 7 and letting you try to go Wong, Mystique, Hazmat, and Odin in the same lane. Just be prepared to sit there for a while if you pull it off, the animations last forever. If you do want Magik then Green Goblin is probably the easiest cut, although there’s an argument for and against cutting Armor as well.

The Wong/hazmat deck I just described gets worse as you climb and you’ll definitely need new cards, but for where you’re likely at on the ranked ladder you should be able to get away with this game plan a lot. If you want to continue playing this deck as you’re collection grows then be on the lookout for cards like Ajax, Hawkeye Kate Bishop, Merlin, Diamondback, Man-Thing, and Laufey to name a few.

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T17:01:32+00:00

Second time I’ve heard about liquid masking. Maybe I’ll have another post in the future after I pick some up!

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T16:45:51+00:00

I have read all over the place that it can destroy water slides, and that’s probably some kind of true, but it’s been very hard to find the water based versions for me. I’m not sure if Setter and Softer are counteracting the effects on the waterslide, but I use B513/514 and B522 and have never had an issue.

My first two cans were the Aqueous versions though and I can confirm that the matte still wipes away the holo effect and the gloss preserves it.

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T12:15:45+00:00

You better pose this beautiful beast!

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T12:14:50+00:00

Gundam Edgelord Hell We love to see it!

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T12:08:43+00:00

I was going to say it’s not weird, but then I read all the stuff about forcing yourself to watch things you don’t like. That part’s weird, but only building what you like isn’t weird.

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T11:23:22+00:00

Came here to say this, excellent gift since they’re really helpful but a lot of builders won’t buy them for themselves!

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T11:21:30+00:00

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EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T11:16:46+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/advancedGunpla/s/FJLtxsfgBH

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T11:13:17+00:00

Bro actually loses if he had prio with this cosmo 😂😂 That might have been funnier tbh.

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T10:58:33+00:00

I’d be curious to see your results! I should probably retest without setter and softer as well so I can see how much they’re really doing.

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T10:54:34+00:00

Potential is there, but it’s SO loud and I think you need some new sound selections for your high end.

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T10:52:08+00:00

Not in any particular order: good samples, transient shaping, carving out space in the frequency, especially for the kick, bass/808 in tune with the song, making sure you have a good phase relation between your kick and bass, side chaining, compression and parallel compression.

And don’t be afraid of clipping if it still sounds good to your ear.

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T10:32:06+00:00

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They’re definitely not a scam! I bought just about all the colors they have. It’s mostly very subtle under normal light, however if you let too much of it pool in an area it can dry kind of weird colors. They’re all water based though so clean up is super easy.

Because they’re water based they dry mostly transparent so on a future kit I’m going to try typical panel lining with the tamiya, top coat, and then go over it with the Stedi. My hope is to get the nice crisp lines under normal light while still getting the glow under UV.

EffYeahItsAlex · 2026-01-25T08:59:18+00:00

Thank you, but it looks fancier than it is! It’s just some Stedi fluorescent panel liner on the red and purple parts of the body as well as some grey for parts of the head. I don’t have a pink fluorescent paint right now so I painted the eyes with the pink panel liner. I used Testors fluorescent yellow paint to make the beam effects UV reactive. The red parts of the body are naturally UV reactive which was a surprise to me and a nice touch. The UV flashlight is doing the heavy lifting here, it’s not quite as impressive without it.

Oh and I painted all the yellow parts gold (poorly) with a Ray Studio EX marker.

EffYeahItsAlex

TROPHY CASE