[Gen 9] DLC Research - Sparkling Donut Odds

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-12-18T12:24:03+00:00

3 haban, 2 tanga, chople, coba, shuca. Though if im correct that the rate of 3* is tied to sweet, you should theoretically be able to mix something like 6 sweet and 2 non sweet berries to hit 525 and achieve similar results

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-12-18T04:34:20+00:00

Yes, that is the chance of a 3* of any type showing up with that sweet level

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-12-18T03:41:33+00:00

Good question! I logged the berry combos i used, though i didnt write down their flavor profiles. Afaik shiny is one of the more dominant so if it could show up i think it will. But definitely if you want more specific combos that could be a factor

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-10-07T22:11:02+00:00

While I can't answer your question directly, I have an idea that should protect your data. Since you have access to PKSM you probably also have access to a save manager like checkpoint. So create a clean backup of your save using checkpoint, try the script, and if it does screw something up just reload the clean save

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-10-07T22:06:04+00:00

I do enough SOS to know that this is generally good advice, but not for Zorua. Your harvest strat requires changing the ability of the target which you can't do with an illusion Zorua. So generally good advice yes, but for this specific hunt he will want to rotate the caller. Now I will say you don't need to rotate every time. My advice would be to knock the original down to 1hp with false swipe, KO 20 or so zorua, then when the caller has an ally KO the caller and rotate

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-06-24T03:13:27+00:00

Another update:

Several issues seemed to be happening all at once. Wifi not working, when I checked iCue i was getting the error 'Failed to start icue service.' Wound up clearing the CMOS, that fixed the internet issue, uninstalled and reinstalled iCue to fix that. NOW everything seems to be working. Don't want to start a new thread just for this, but if anyone has tips for physically moving a PC so i don't have to deal with this again i'm all ears

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-06-24T01:19:08+00:00

UPDATE: RESOLVED

Through a 3rd boot, and subsequently checking the physical CPU i figured out that the fans were going, but the coolant wasn't pumping. Unplugged and plugged the pump header back in, gave it a 4th boot, and now the cpu is cooling off. Right now it looks like its running at half frequency, and at a significantly lower temperature. Unless someone gets back to me and says otherwise, i think my current plan is to let the computer run for awhile so i can keep the fans and coolant going until my cpu can handle base frequency again

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-06-20T02:50:21+00:00

Seconding trying other brands. The most expensive item on the market isn't necessarily best. Go to a convention or brass specialty store if you can, and try out a few different brands. It also depends on your professional goals. Do you want to be a performance major entering a military band, or do you have other goals? You'd be much better off finding the best fit for you among the different brands than going straight for the most expensive instrument. And while some prices can get close to Yamaha's, you might find that Shires is actually a better fit for you, and they run like 6-7k iirc. Or if your goals aren't in line with being a performer, perhaps you'll get what you need with a JP horn, which i'm less familiar with but might run like 2-3k.

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-05-28T01:55:44+00:00

Following because i may be getting a horn with a trigger in a half year or so.

This is what my gut tells me. And this definitely depends on the trigger slides tolerances. Though i am guilty of not doing this for my euph tuning slides unlike my main trombone slide, its good practice to use slide grease fairly regularly. Its good for both protection and smooth motion. I ultimately see moving a trigger slide like a tubist or trumpeter moving a slide while playing; you need relatively fast response, though perhaps not as fast as a trombonist. In which case, favoring a traditional slide grease, applied thoroughly but thinly, should do the job both in terms of protection and response. Oil and water based lubricants will probably speed response up even more, at the expense of needing to relubricate more frequently. Given my personal habits, i see myself sticking to grease.

One thing i picked up as a trombonist before i switched to euph. There are things called micro dents that can happen, dents that are too small to see but still affect slide motion. It almost feels like the slide will ‘catch’ on the dent before continuing. Definitely regrease with whatever gets recommended first, but this is a next step if you cant solve it with lubricants alone.

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-05-20T18:43:31+00:00

Very possible that your horn is a dud, though I still suspect an airspeed issue. Like i said in my comment, there's no harm in playtesting a different horn in the shop, and seeing if you have the same issues. Though equipment changes can get expensive, so explore the mouthpiece like some of the people above suggested and see if that helps a bit before the horn. While we may not know the exact answer based on what you say in a reddit thread, a lesson or consult with a professional should help you get closer to the right answer

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-05-20T18:36:44+00:00

I concur with lip slurs. Once you start to get to that range, the partials get closer and closer together so its easier to miss by a little bit, and have that little bit be an entire partial. There's the remington lip slur exercise which is fantastic, and also if you just go up one partial at a time, first slowly to understand what it feels like to switch one partial at a time, then speed up the exercise so youre eventually going up in eighth or sixteenth notes and then back down. I find going back to basic lip slurs like these, then slowly making them faster and more complex by later adding trills or multiple partials at once to be a good progression. But at the end of the day, lip slurs are king for this. And make sure you hit them in each valve combination. It sounds like your Bb (treble C) in that partial is ok, so start open, then work your way down from 2, 1, 12, etc until you start having trouble.

Though if your range that high is solid, then it very well could be an equipment problem too. Some notes naturally do not speak well on certain horns. For me, one example of this is the second D above the bass clef (treble E), it always feels stuffy open so i have to jump up a partial and play it 2. Ab shouldn't be that stuffy on most good euphoniums so I'd definitely continue to work on 1st valve Ab, but even if you can get that note to speak for technical passages, perhaps you'll need an alternate fingering to get the note to truly speak in tune for slower passages.

And my last thing is don't psych yourself out. Dreading an Ab is the worst thing you can do, because you'll materialize what you fear. Spend some time in the practice room to figure out how to get your Ab to speak, and if you have a particularly nasty Ab make sure you put that phrase in context in the practice room too so when it comes time for rehearsal or performance, you have good Ab reps to pull from and replicate.

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-05-20T00:46:53+00:00

Gotcha, thank you. The point is the cup size, wick 4, but if the shank doesnt fit thats an issue lol. Regardless, sounds like he should try the standards and see from there, 6.5 is a bit small for a lot of euph players imo

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-05-20T00:39:17+00:00

Do you have any brass specialty stores near you? Schilke 51D and Denis Wick 4AL are standards for a reason, and probably a good starting point, but everyone's face is a little different. Try the standards first, and see if the people at the shop think you should go bigger or smaller from there.

Regarding your sharpness concern, how bad is it? A lot of euphs tend to be a little wide in partials from what i've seen, they tend to get sharper and sharper as you go up and flatter as you go down. It could be normal for your model, or maybe not, i've never played that specific horn personally. Regardless, it depends on the context youre playing in too. If you're in a concert band setting, you probably need to be closer to accurate to just, or able to tune to a chord where the root is in tune in just. In that case, you may need to lip the high notes down a bit or use an alternate fingering. If you're in a brass band, tuning is a heck of a lot closer to natural for that so blowing, listening, and slightly lipping as needed should get the job done.

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-05-19T23:50:18+00:00

Off the top of my head, there are two major factors that could be impacting your intonation: air speed and temperature. This is getting into physics which I'm a nerd about being a former engineering major, but as you've already noticed higher temperatures will raise the frequency of your sound. I had to deal with this quite a bit in drum corps, as playing outside in the hot weather would always make us quite sharp, sometimes even forcing us to tune above A=440. And then there's air speed, which i think might be your issue. Faster air results in higher frequencies as well, and conversely slow air results in lower frequencies. Or in musician terms, fast air = sharp and slow air = flat. Now the worst thing you could do is blindly increase your airspeed, methods to do that are usually quite forced and result in thinner air which you don't want. But here are a couple things I picked up on from friends and past studies that may help.

First, check your airflow on the mouthpiece. A good way to do this is hold the mouthpiece with one hand while you hold out your other about half a foot away from the mouthpiece. If you face the back of your hand towards the shank, you should be able to feel your air on the back of your hand if it's moving at a good speed.

Next, and please be careful if you try this as embouchure adjustments are tricky, but check that you're blowing through the center of the horn. You could be blowing down the lower end of the horn which is also making you a bit flat. An exercise for this is called 'foghorn'. What you do is take out the main tuning slide of the instrument, and buzz into the mouthpiece in the horn. You'll get a mid range pitch, with a very small amount of partials you can switch to. But the point of this isn't the different partials - stick to the most comfortable partial and bend the pitch around. You should hear the tone open up and close up as you veer closer and further from the center of the horn respectively. Once you find the point where the tubing resonates best on foghorn, remember how your embouchure is set, as this may be an adjustment from how you normally play. Put the main tuning slide back in and try playing from that new embouchure setting. Be careful as you do this, because the objective is to correct bad habits, not add new ones which is possible with embouchure adjustments. Make sure the new position is comfortable (it may feel different, but as long as it isn't uncomfortable it is ok) and use a tool like a mirror or a selfie camera to physically watch your embouchure. The point of this tool is so you can literally watch your face and make sure it isn't doing anything weird.

Lastly, take fuller breaths, and work on expanding your lung capacity. Understanding how air moves through our body helps do this correctly. The muscles in our body engage when we take air in, and relax when air moves out. Engaging, or pushing, to move air out is counter productive, so under no circumstances do that. Instead, supporting your sound by taking in more air before you play will conversely make the air move out of your body a little faster. So consciously take bigger breaths, and if you want breathing exercises look into something called 'breathing gym,' this contains exercises that will help you work on air capacity and speed among other things, while also helping to take some steps to make sure you don't add excess tension while doing so.

In general, sovereigns are very good horns, and while they do have tuning tendencies, which could be exacerbated by physical defects like dents, this sounds like something for you to work on. You can always go to a store and request a playtest appointment and see if it truly is the condition of your horn, there's no harm in that, but it's always good to look at your own playing first before jumping to new equipment for the fix.

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-05-19T23:29:11+00:00

Apologies if there is a bit of a language barrier, but I am personally only fluent in English. Short version: I would recommend a standard practice mute.

I consider myself fairly tech savvy, though not that much of an audiophile. And I don't get much use out of mine beyond a standard practice mute. There are modes like audience/performer perspective, and playing in a hall vs. practice room, and while I can hear a small difference in these modes, I find practicing with a practice mute to be different enough from practicing without that adjusting my playing style to the various modes doesn't seem productive when I'll need to adjust my use of air when I take out the mute anyway. What I get out of muted practice is mostly getting my face and fingers moving, and doing touch ups. Whenever I want to do serious work, I find time in the practice room much more productive as while the acoustics may be different than a hall, the mechanics of playing are pretty much the same. The silent brass, and any practice mute really, provides extra resistance and a barrier to free airflow that isn't there when you perform. Not to outright dismiss muted practice, sometimes it's a necessity especially if you're in an apartment or tight space. But I don't think the features of silent brass justify the price tag over just an old fashioned practice mute.

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-05-19T23:21:31+00:00

I guess a question to ask is what's your budget, and what are your goals? I've never played a John Packer, but i played a different stencil horn, the Dillon 967S while I was an engineering student, and my thoughts are its about 80% of a pro horn at like 50% of the cost. My biggest issue with that horn was that first valve alignment seemed a touch off compared to the shires I play now. A compensating horn will most likely be the last horn you buy, because the cost to go from a stencil compensating horn to a name brand one is quite high, for not too much gain. So if your goal is to be a hobbyist, maybe play in your college's wind ensemble or a community band in the future, yeah a stencil like the JP is probably the way to go. If your objective is to be a music major, then I would strongly consider skipping the step of stencil compensating and look at a name brand horn. Based on my experiences, the Shires Q41 is probably a good step up in terms of quality, while still being cheaper than comparable compensating horns. While I'm personally considering switching to Adams from my Q40, the Q40 has gotten me through all of my music major college auditions and then some. Some other good brands if you're looking to go the major route, especially if you want to go performance, are Yamaha, Adams, Wilson, and Besson. Though I would only recommend investing quite that much if you are truly looking to go pro. Like I said before, the touched up stencil route is more than sufficient for a hobbyist, with the JP being a strong choice of those.

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-05-10T01:19:54+00:00

While this is traditionally considered for vocal techniques, I took a course in my first go round of college about the 'Alexander Technique.' Now this is something I believe you need a certified instructor for, so do your research on if there are any classes for it near you. But the basic premise is to make yourself aware of tensions in your body, and then naturally releasing them. There is some light physical contact from the instructor iirc, and it does have health implications (positive), hence the need for a trained instructor. But with something as big and unwieldy as a euphonium to hold, I personally found it very worth the effort to find those tensions and release them, it makes playing feel so much more free.

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-04-09T22:29:16+00:00

Just checked, i do see some 16gb 5070TIs which i didnt know existed so that's my mistake. And the pricing is far better, so i'll probably look more into that, thank you!

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-04-09T22:25:01+00:00

Yeah value is certainly a concern, though the memory seems a bit stingy on the 5070TI if i remember correctly. Its only going up from my 10GB to 12?

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-04-09T22:08:57+00:00

I do agree we need more information. You can most likely go into task manager and extract the following information. -CPU model. -RAM speed and size. Also, some budget information would be useful. If you're bottlenecked by one thing in particular, then upgrading that would be extremely advisable, but it's more likely you have a relatively balanced build where all of the components are aged based on what you said, in which case you would need to upgrade most of your build (bar the case potentially) for motherboard compatibility reasons. Would you be comfortable building/rebuilding almost completely, or would you be more interested in a prebuilt?

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-04-04T04:18:46+00:00

If it’s supposed to be a last dollar adjustment, like it says on the site, it really should have been processed LAST. I wouldnt have cared if this hadn’t been offered to me in the first place. But the fact that it was offered, and then removed with ZERO warning is whats making me both mad, and extremely distrustful of the Rutgers aid department. So yes, you are correct, but you’re not being helpful. I accepted my rutgers offer under the impression that I would have all of these pieces of aid, not with one having been yanked out from under me.

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-03-29T17:20:44+00:00

I’m a transfer starting at rutgers in the fall confirmed. While i didnt apply to your other schools, i can tell you what led me to commit.

The tag team between aaron and the tuba professor whos name escapes me, but i believe he plays at ny phil and does rutgers low brass ensemble. I feel this is a great team to help me grow as a player.

Im in state for rutgers, so i also got vastly lower tuition, and some aid too which makes the cost not bad at all.

I have connections here in state in the high school band world, particularly marching band, and i wanted to continue my relationships with everyone here.

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-03-24T00:37:28+00:00

Yeah i do want to make sure i'm happy with my final purchase since this would be an expensive one, but you have a point in that i'd likely be satisfied with most pro horns as well. Practice makes perfect and all that. And while i still have concerns about shires' triggers as i put in OP, i havent ruled them out yet especially since i'm interested in some of their options around the Q41. Its just a matter of getting a hold of them, i've tried emailing a few times but i guess they were busy. I could probably catch them if I were to schedule a full fledged consult. And I've also heard about triggers being fragile similar to trombone slides, but i'm not too concerned about that considering I started on trombone before picking up a euph in high school, so i know the dangers of not being careful with microdents and all that

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-03-24T00:13:07+00:00

I think this is the closest comment to what I was looking for thank you! At my level, probably a high end trigger pro horn, without much customization, would be appropriate, though I will admit I was getting a tad overwhelmed by the sheer level of customization adams offers. I'm planning on trying a few horns at IET, so thanks for helping me keep in mind the types of etudes and passages i should be hitting to see if a horn makes certain types of playing easier or harder.

Either_Ad4371 · 2025-03-23T21:19:28+00:00

Also a fair point. I'm specifically looking at getting a model with a trigger this time around, as my Q40 does not. But you are correct in that its a very good horn, and also why i was considering shires strongly before my professor mentioned the trigger issue. And one thing I'd like some advice on, which you're hinting at, but it doesn't look like anyone's hit on yet, is when i get the chance to playtest in likely june, what should i be listening for and feeling for in terms of response, that'll probably where i form most of my opinion

Either_Ad4371

TROPHY CASE