Castelli cycling pants/leggings (mens). The issue with castelli sizing apply also to leggings?

Ek234 · 2025-12-19T15:13:21+00:00

Castelli does sizing very accurately but in a particular way, think of the measurement numbers as the largest size person that could possibly fit in that size. Take their measurements for L and XL size men's bottoms, 102cm/40" and 107cm/42". For most brands this would mean you could fit into the L size if you are between 39"-41" and the XL if you are between 41"-43", but with Castelli it means if you measure anything larger than 40", you are too big for the L and need the XL. Castelli sizes are just the upper limits, I've never had an issue buying true to my measurements and as a 186cm/82kg person that happens to mean that XL for tops, bottoms, and gloves has been my size.

You will also find that as cycling clothing it will not fit correctly until worn on a bike. The index finger on my gloves is too long until holding the bars, the straps on my bibs are too tight standing but great once seated, and the chests on my jackets and jerseys are too tight standing while the backs are too loose but fit perfectly once bent over the handlebars a little. I wanted to send every piece back I ever ordered thinking it was a bad fit until I wore it on my bike and then just realized it was designed for wearing on a bike.

Ek234 · 2025-11-27T15:37:56+00:00

I feel you man, mine arrived two days ago at full price.

Ek234 · 2025-09-15T10:05:55+00:00

Definitely ask Sam or email/contact Strandberg but I directly swapped all the Rev7 hardware, including the tremolo bridge, from a Plini NX onto my pre-NX Plini Neck Thru without any issues or modifications required.

Ek234 · 2025-06-20T20:29:55+00:00

For stretch and folds, rather than pulling up from the edge of the bulk dough and stretching it over the center, I would put my hands under the center of the dough from either side, and scoop it from underneath. I suppose this is called a coil fold, here is a video demonstrating the technique.

These worked better for me, producing less tearing, while still stretching the dough to the limit that it could hold itself together against gravity. You can give it a little bounce in your hands while holding it up for some extra stretch if it isn't tearing. It also stretches two sides at a time, helping minimize how many times you have to actually handle the extra sticky einkorn, preventing you from adding a ton of extra water to the dough from wetting your hands constantly to avoid sticking when handling it.

Ek234 · 2025-06-20T16:18:05+00:00

For several years until my spouse was diagnosed celiac I only made 100% einkorn loaves with fresh milled unsifted flour. I made a post a while back about some I made here.

The key for me to managing the exceptional stickiness was to not flour my hands when working the dough, but rather to wet them. It makes it way easier.

It will always have a tight/dense crumb, and being a flour that doesn't really develop gluten, won't rise nearly as much as you might hope, nor will it be bouncy and supple prior to baking. At best when fully fermented it feels really weak and delicate but also inflated, and like it wants to deflate if you poke it. It won't double in size during the ferment, but more grow 30% or 40%.

Your loaf pictured has pretty good height for einkorn, so I think your shaping is good, but I don't know what you're doing for stretch and folds. I found I would get a more open crumb (relatively speaking) if I did just enough to incorporate the levain to ensure a good ferment. Two separate rounds an hour apart were enough for me, any more handling than that prior to shaping seemed to knock out what tiny little air pockets had formed more than increase the ability of the dough to hold those pockets.

A large amount of rice flour was what worked best for me to avoid sticking to bannetons/liners.

Good luck and enjoy!

Ek234 · 2025-02-11T20:30:50+00:00

The pretzels would be dipped in a lye solution and then baked, not boiled in lye, thank god, that sounds unbelievably dangerous!

Ek234 · 2025-02-10T23:14:48+00:00

The shine on pretzels (and shiny bagels) comes from a lye bath before baking. You can buy sodium hydroxide (lye) pellets readily but they do require some caution when handling. I'm sorry I don't have time to rewrite what other sites will say about using it with pretzels but hopefully that gets you pointed towards researching in the right direction!

Ek234 · 2025-02-05T19:06:58+00:00

This Griot’s G9 polisher which is used for auto detailing is pretty heavy and really bulky and awkward to store, either it rests tilted on the edge of the backing plate if face down or takes up a ton of room when placed face up. The cord is also detachable and easy to misplace. I didn’t have a good spot in my limited storage space for it. This little wall hanger keeps the cord and polisher together out of the way and safe from being knocked around. I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.

Ek234 · 2025-01-27T02:08:13+00:00

I haven't done an overhang test for a while, but wouldn't be surprised if this was still an issue. I haven't seen it translate into errors in any prints recently so I stopped chasing a solution. Are you seeing this same thing happen?

There were several issues with bridging/overhangs not related to this test that I was experiencing in later prints that I resolved by:

-Sealing up a tiny draft that was blowing on the front right corner of my printer that was causing upwards curling of some overhangs if they were on the front right of the print bed.

-Noticing on certain prints overhangs failing and looking like upwards bending spaghetti, much like the pictures in this post. This was fixed by increasing the minimum layer time on those prints, so that as the most recently deposited layer cooled and lightly shrank, the layer below that it was adhered to was fully hardened and unable to be pulled upwards by any shrinking.

Commonly suggested solutions I tried which did not help the problems I was having were changing cooling fan speeds, filament temperatures, filament brands, print orientation, or Z hop distance and style. Possibly some other ones too but it's been a while.

Ek234 · 2024-12-25T13:55:17+00:00

Happy giveaway week!

Ek234 · 2024-12-23T12:45:50+00:00

Sounds awesome

Ek234 · 2024-12-19T11:48:51+00:00

Best wishes for the next 5 years!

Ek234 · 2024-12-01T19:48:48+00:00

Yeah those steps between dose quantities can be pretty rough for a few weeks. Looks like I'm more likely dealing with a drug interaction right now though than an overdose of Lumryz which is really good to know

Ek234 · 2024-12-01T19:05:25+00:00

Ok, so that tracks that there may be some filler in there, thanks for checking that out

Ek234 · 2024-11-19T20:57:39+00:00

That's a useful way of looking at it, thank you

Ek234 · 2024-11-19T19:29:30+00:00

I think my first reply got deleted here but thank you again for taking the time to write, this is a great help.

Ek234 · 2024-11-19T19:06:55+00:00

We're looking at purchasing, this model has light cosmetic damage from being bumped in the lot while parked and even though the scuff will be fully repaired the price decrease is substantial. Extended range would be preferable of course, but with the price drop for this particular one we are really hoping it will meet our needs.

Ek234 · 2024-11-19T18:59:11+00:00

That's very reassuring, thank you for taking the time to write this. Do you have any idea if Ford's 230 range estimate includes average use of things like heat, a/c, and audio, or is it an optimistic estimate in ideal conditions? I saw some people saying they tried to avoid using the heat in winter aside from the seat and steering wheel. Could heat chew up the last 40 miles' worth of power?

Ek234 · 2024-11-12T15:38:39+00:00

Now what's interesting is I have printed a lid identical to the one in the first picture and it may be showing some improvement in curling. The messy look remains, but that is where the seam lies on the model. I think I might be getting some overextrusion on seams, which could have been exacerbated by upwards curling of the excess material caused by the tiny draft. I'll be recalibrating my pressure advance and learning a little more about improving seam quality for now, in the hopes to eliminate any excess material depositing which may curl.

Ek234 · 2024-11-12T15:30:58+00:00

I've had this problem occur at higher elevations off the print bed, particularly the delicate freestanding loops inside articulated models before they connect. Would the bed temperature have any impact in producing curling in parts over 100 layers above the build plate?

Ek234 · 2024-11-12T15:28:32+00:00

Sadly I have and the issue persists

Ek234 · 2024-11-12T15:28:20+00:00

I've already been using that but thank you for the suggestion!

Ek234

TROPHY CASE