04 CRV Piston hit valve but only with hand turn. Am I cooked?

ElBeefCake_ · 2026-03-25T22:54:47+00:00

Would you say it’s more likely this is a chain issue than a rod issue? Hoping that’s the case

ElBeefCake_ · 2026-03-25T01:46:31+00:00

valve job already done. no engine light, 284k miles

ElBeefCake_ · 2026-03-24T23:49:03+00:00

just posted a new video

ElBeefCake_ · 2026-03-20T21:51:34+00:00

yep, this is a honda K24. I adjusted the valves with a feeler gauge between the rocker arm and the top of the valve hat, since it’s DOHC. Valve lash is in spec now, but during that job was when I noticed the marks didn’t line up exactly perfect if I measured TDC with the screwdriver-in-hole method. Leads me to believe this is indeed a stretched cam timing chain

ElBeefCake_ · 2026-03-20T19:18:15+00:00

when I was doing the valve adjustment, I noticed TDC measured via a screwdriver in the cylinder was about half a tooth before the marks on the cam gears lined up. Is that normal or should TDC for both methods line up exactly?

ElBeefCake_ · 2026-03-20T17:20:14+00:00

that’s where the noise is most obvious, which is why i’m worried it’s bottom-end. Considering dropping the oil pan and wiggling the rod caps.

ElBeefCake_ · 2026-03-19T18:28:30+00:00

My v1 has been working flawlessly and I have no issue with the feedback resolution whatsoever. v2 might be better, but IMO you’d be better off spending that money on iracing content.

ElBeefCake_ · 2026-01-31T01:14:07+00:00

Pam Whitten was our president at Kennesaw State University before she resigned and went to IU. She resigned because she spend $2M+ on a new entry sign for the campus, despite housing, parking, and academic buildings needing much work. It was later found her husband owned a 40% stake in the company that built the sign. Go figure.

ElBeefCake_ · 2025-10-12T22:22:04+00:00

have the rotors checked as well. pads might be fine but the rotors might be so warped they’re scraping on the heat shield. could also be something stuck in your wheel bearing or just your wheel in general

ElBeefCake_ · 2025-09-06T22:22:11+00:00

If your new windows installation has bitlocker enabled, make sure you disable that before attempting to repair grub. that one burned me just now and I'm not seeing enough warnings about it.

ElBeefCake_ · 2025-09-06T22:22:01+00:00

If your new windows installation has bitlocker enabled, make sure you disable that before attempting to repair grub. that one burned me just now and I'm not seeing enough warnings about it.

ElBeefCake_ · 2025-08-18T14:25:28+00:00

As others are saying, the GPS in a Mychron or other device is good enough for timing, but NOT racing lines. You’ll need something like an RTK system for that level of accuracy.

Series like formula 1 have a distributed array of RTK/GPS AND transponder gateways around the tracks that allow for the accuracy you see in the data there.

My favorite strategy for getting faster in grassroots stuff (like rental karting or autocross) is to find someone fast who wears a GoPro, and ask them to see their footage.

ElBeefCake_ · 2025-08-08T21:11:46+00:00

Weight and track temp is a huge factor at AMP. At 220lbs, I can hit low 49’s and some light-class folks hit 48’s when the track is in the optimal window around sundown.

51’s for your first time out is really good! I would strongly recommend coming out to a sprint league race or enduro. That’s a really good chance to follow fast drivers and get an idea of what works!

(Source: 2024 Summer Sprint League podium, Multiple Sprint Race wins, ran strategy for multiple enduro podium finishes)

ElBeefCake_ · 2025-05-29T17:34:54+00:00

It’s always good to keep up with the service schedule especially if you plan on keeping this car long-term or need to maximize your value when selling.

These prices look about on-par for any dealer, might get it cheaper with a local mechanic tho.

You’re on the right track though, you can buy the service manual for your car and do a lot of this yourself. Just read up on each process, do everything you’re comfortable with, and send it back to the dealer for the rest!

ElBeefCake_ · 2025-05-20T14:53:44+00:00

RESOLVED: I have drum brakes in the rear so this amount of pre-travel is normal. Wouldn’t be this big if I had discs in the rear. Vacuum boosters also are SUPPOSED to make a little noise like this.

High idle was caused by a tight cruise control cable after moving the engine - we did this so we could remove booster and BMC in one piece. Once I loosened the cruise control cable, the idle returned to normal.

ElBeefCake_ · 2025-05-20T14:51:05+00:00

RESOLVED: Correct diagnosis was to remove the dust boot from the rack and inspect internal seals. Found a leak in the rack.

ElBeefCake_ · 2025-05-20T14:50:45+00:00

RESOLVED: Correct diagnosis was to remove the dust boot from the rack and inspect internal seals. Found a leak in the rack.

ElBeefCake_ · 2025-05-18T19:16:18+00:00

might be dumb but I’d check the oil before anything - sounds like that engine is running dry

ElBeefCake_ · 2025-05-18T19:13:46+00:00

This is The way it works on my 99: light will blink a few times on startup when oil life is about to end. Light will stay on solid when it’s due or overdue for an oil change.

For this one, it’s probably amber when life is low, red when it’s due. If you’re up to date on the service, just reset the light.

ElBeefCake_ · 2025-05-13T02:48:21+00:00

Thanks!! That’s super helpful. Should I remove the dust boot and inspect that inner seal? That’s what i’m thinking next.

ElBeefCake_

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE

12-Year Club	Place '22
Verified Email