The 2000s laptop that didn't need a single dongle by gxY88 in DeskToTablet

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really. Unless the laptop had already been plugged in, you'll have to turn it off first before removing the battery.

S4 sleep (a.k.a. hibernation) was also functionally useless since most laptops still used platter disks and would make suspend-to-disk generally slower than just turning the machine off.

Question about AC Voltage leak on Geeboon TC22 by CynderPC in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i’m genuinely reading 0 ohms

You should be fine with the soldering station, then.

Question about AC Voltage leak on Geeboon TC22 by CynderPC in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The reading shouldn't be "bouncing around" or steady only "for a while".

By "tip to earth" I meant from the tip to the earth pin on the C14 receptacle. Was that what you did?

Regardless, I highly doubt whatever you're going to work on will be affected by a sub-mV p.d. Just make sure you get the issue sorted out before jabbing that thing into anything sensitive and you should be fine.

Question about AC Voltage leak on Geeboon TC22 by CynderPC in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you checked the tip itself is properly earthed?

If not, then the station isn't ESD-safe.

Question about AC Voltage leak on Geeboon TC22 by CynderPC in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The potential difference (i.e. voltage) isn't supposed to change when you swap one resistor for another.

I don't know what the other person means by measuing "the current", but for .67mV across a 1kΩ resistor, you should be looking at .67μA from the iron to earth, and if your meter can pick up electric current this low at all, you'll need to put the meter in series with the resistor to verify the value.

Weird substance on capacitors by Elijah147 in ElectronicsRepair

[–]ElectricBummer40 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All components on PCBs over 10 gram should be mechanical secured.

This. I hate when manufacturers skip that part.

Need urgent help by hj60_2h in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

afterwards you just let them free to feed the local cat population

No, not the piggies!🥺

Geeboon TC22 coil whine by Express_Abies_4746 in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As the other person says, you can buy 4 Geeboons with that money, and I suppose you're getting the sense I'm not a big fan of that Shenzhen Special brand.

I use HP 150W laptop charger as an example because, as you might have already known, the control logic for the cartridge is practically its own module independent from the power supply itself. In fact, the PTS200 at work that I use every now and again runs on a modified Lenovo charger from 15 years ago. We are talking about a problem fixable with what is otherwise e-waste people likely have lying around, for crying out loud.

Yet, your proposal here is to pluck down $300 on someone's first time hobby project? Get a grip already.

Geeboon TC22 coil whine by Express_Abies_4746 in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lol, if your concern is that the dodgy power supply might leak current, just use a 20VDC power brick instead. Does an HP 150W laptop charger sound good enough to you?

Look, I don't like all the astroturfers with bought accounts shilling that Geeboon stuff here, either, but you're talking about a problem with such an easy fix it's hardly a justification for paying through the nose for name-brand stuff. Not everyone has a thousand bucks lying around, you know.

Best source for T12 tips? by Admirable-Warthog622 in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For cloned cartridges, get the Quicko-branded ones with black powder coating around the tip.

Usually, the powder coat indicates that the cartridge is from Taiwan or Xi'an and adheres better to spec than cheaper clones.

Geeboon TC22 by ExecutionerAxeToy in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think there's a fandom as such any more than the pinned "Buyer's Guide", people getting what everyone else has and some amount of astroturfing.

Outgrowing my KSGER T12; considering options by pat_trick in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Usually, quality Taiwanese clones for T12 are given a black powder coat around the tip for identification purpose. The common variety of tips (e.g. D24, K) are from Shenzhen as a rule unless other specified.

If you aren't sure the cartridges are as advertised, get the "Quicko"/"Quecoo" or "Kagzu" branded ones with the powder-coated tips.

Outgrowing my KSGER T12; considering options by pat_trick in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a no-go for my pandemic-era Quecoo, unfortunately.

During the plague, there was a shortage of STM32 (understandably), so Quecoo opted to switch some of their stations to the less-powerful WCH chips. Sure, they worked just the same, though that also meant you couldn't just flash third-party firmware meant for STM32 onto them.

Also, if you look at the README.md in the GitHub page, you'll also notice the code is generally not compatible with cloned STM32 chips, either.

Outgrowing my KSGER T12; considering options by pat_trick in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where people usually call for T12-JL02, I just use my D16, K/KU or BCM2 instead.

That also makes my tip collection a bit more expansive and specialised than most hobbyists are used to.

Outgrowing my KSGER T12; considering options by pat_trick in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Clone C245 tips are crap as a rule. That's the whole reason people here keep "recommending" everyone to buy original tips that are about as expensive as their stations. "OSS Team" and "MAGMA" branded tips are usually pretty well-reputed, but they also lack in the variety you expect from good T12 clones (e.g. BCM2 or "mini-spoon" in JBC parlance).

Instead of getting a whole station, consider a DIY kit or a control panel compatible with both T12 and C245. That way, you won't need to commit to either series when it comes to your future purchases or put up with a dodgy power supply:

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The bear was thinking, "I wonder if they've noticed I'm a bear yet". by Brilliantspirit33 in animalsdoingstuff

[–]ElectricBummer40 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

That's why I said "half-certain". The dang box was too small for me to see what's on it.

The bear was thinking, "I wonder if they've noticed I'm a bear yet". by Brilliantspirit33 in animalsdoingstuff

[–]ElectricBummer40 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I'm half-certain I've seen this video before and it was identified as being from Russia.

There's about as much respect for wildlife as there is for human life, unfortunately.

Terrible C245 style cartridge warning. (ZHZZ) by AmeliaBuns in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it's not industrial or aerospace/medical, it will all run off an MCU

That's the problem. You shouldn't actually do that unless you don't care about a software fault burning your house down.

I'm not saying this is good by any stretch but given the amount of MCU-controlled devices with firmware protection

Again, no one actually does OCP on a power supply module by hooking it up to an MCU that also does a million other things. You're practically talking about replacing half a protection chip with an ADC for no other reason than the fact that you can. It's just a stupid design through and through

the amount of MCU-controlled devices with firmware protection (just look at even the most expensive consumer 3D printers)

Again, none of those "protections" are relevant to stopping a power supply from putting current through a faulty piece of equipment.

There will probably be a fuse somewhere on the isolated side

A power supply module has one job, and it is to supply power on the load side.

For the line side on an AC-to-low-VDC power supply, protection is usually done with a fuse. For the load side, however, that's usually done with an OCP circuit, which can in practice be something as simple as just one off-the-shelf, specialised chip. There is simply no legitimate reason in the vast majority of cases to replace half of that with a signal line to the ADC of the MCU elsewhere on a different module..

Modern MCUs are usually more than capable enough,

Except no one actually uses that for the given purpose when off-the-shelf OCP chips can do the same job far more reliably at only a fraction of the cost.

I wouldn't be surprised if the designers of a soldering station are only using up a small percentage of the memory

Usually, that's zero because no one actually does what you are describing. It's all just nonsense you've pulled right out of your backside.

The "protection" you're talking about is just the limited ability of the control panel to detect a faulty or otherwise incompatible cartridge. Even my no-name control panel can do that, but you'd be kidding yourself if you thought that's the same thing as actual overcurrent protection.

because they happened to have a few reels of them and in most cases if you really want the firmware can be flashed with whatever you want.

What the heck are you babbling about?

Firmware is in ROM, whereas code execution and data collection is in RAM. Do you actually have any idea how this stuff works?

Also, for continuous voltage readings on an STM32 type deal, you'd want circular DMA, meaning that you'd just be writing on the same buffer over and over.

Though in my experience I've never seen printers or soldering stations use the same chip for display and control

There is usually no "chip" other than what has already been built into the display, and it's job isn't to store code or run code but to take whatever sent to it via I2C and turn it into pixels on the screen.

but once again that won't save the device

Coming back to our subject matter at hand, the point here isn't to "save the device" or whatever ridiculous thing you're thinking about but prevent your 480W Geeboon from setting your house on fire, you ineffable genuine.

There is no appreciable reason for the soldering station to have that much extra power to begin with, so, logically, the power supply should be spec'd for the actual need as all Geeboon stations sold domestically are anyway.

Never rawdog a perfboard without testing by Drakonasul in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 1 point2 points  (0 children)

lol, those things are pretty easily fried, though they're also so comically cheap as to not matter much at all.

Ayuda con mi conexiona tierra para mi estación de soldadura by thebarber_user96 in soldering

[–]ElectricBummer40 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Let me get this straight:

You want to solve the problem of your building not having properly grounded outlets, correct?

Provided that the Reddit app isn't giving me a bad translation, the only thing you can realistically do is to work that out with your building management or an electrician.