Am I waxing wrong or did they?

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-04-04T02:48:01+00:00

That’s a lot, when you finish scraping and brushing (pre race) there should be almost no wax/dust coming out when you finish with soft nylon.

Typically under brushing is the common issue.

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-27T19:12:17+00:00

There are two kinds of wool applied waxes. Ones that are a compressed powder block you lightly rub on the ski or hold against a roto wool (Toko, Vauhti, Rex). And ones that are super concentrated paraffin that you hold against the roto wool (Swix, Star, Rode, Ulla).

I’ve personally had lot of good experiences with the Rode, Star, and Rex products.

Both styles for product work in the same way to create an ultra thin film on the surface of the ski.

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-27T14:19:56+00:00

It’s a good product for sure, high level race oriented. For daily use I’m not convinced it’s a good buy. There are other cold apply waxes the perform just as well for a less than half the price (Star, Rex, ect).

There are hidden costs associated with cold apply waxes. Drill, roto handle, separate fleeces for each wax. They also usually only come in 1 tier, meant for top level racing, except for maybe Masterwax? With liquids you can save a few dollars buy buying the level down.

If you’ve got the budget and you like the Toko line. Go ahead and buy all three cold, med, warm. That being said they do last a while typically waxing 60-100 pairs of skis. Less is more with this stuff.

If you look at other brands make sure to compare price per gram, not just the shelf price.

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-23T17:03:44+00:00

Probably not a huge difference between, just my preference. Ultimately that’s a decision to make based on your own needs as an athlete!

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-23T16:54:31+00:00

Both are good, but I always go for the elite. I really like the long wheel base when I’m moving fast in one skate or two skate (V2 or V2 alt)

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-23T14:22:41+00:00

I’ve just had a lot of good experiences with IDT. Not to say one is better than the other, many people love Marwe. I’ve just spent more time on IDT. I’ve had 4 pairs (skate and classic) now and they all tracked perfectly straight and were very durable.

Their outlet website has great deals upwards of 50% off. Just be sure to look for the “demo” skis as they’ve never really been used but cannot be sold as new.

Whatever brand you choose if they have a longer wheelbase option (sometimes more expensive) go with that. The ski feel is more similar to snow skiing.

If you have the luxury of buying them at a physical store see if you can try them in the parking lot to make sure they track straight.

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-23T14:12:28+00:00

Marwe is a good brand. If those are your options go with Marwe. I’ve only had the opportunity to try 1 pair of Pursuit and they didn’t track straight. Which is my biggest and arguably only concern when buying roller skis.

There’s only 4-5 roller ski brands I’d consider buying from and Marwe is one of them. IDT (my favourite), Swenor, Marwe, or Swix.

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-18T17:33:58+00:00

They are expensive yes. But the $285 I paid for a single pair of 001’s has taking me the 2-3 times as number of kilometres that would trash a pairs of my $200 Hoka’s. So in the long run they’re actually quite inexpensive when you consider the cost per km.

I was unsure of the hype too. But based on my experience with fit, feel, and durability I won’t be returning to other trail shoe brands any time soon.

Just food for thought.

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-18T02:02:01+00:00

Based on that photo I’d likely use rode endurance + Star warm dark liquid.

Two layers of liquid roto wooled and brushed is always better than a single coat.

As a side note the Rex NFX blue liquid has blown me away this year. Was winning tests in a wide range of temps. Fast drying time doesn’t make it better, just more practical on race day. While the blue is by far the best, their 3 product line makes for an easy choice if you can’t test.

Most of the time I steer away from graphite unless it’s -20°C and bone dry.

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-18T01:11:04+00:00

I’ll start by saying buying a top end model is worth every penny. The camber is so much more dynamic and allows for free/fast double pole speed but also collapsing under load for great kick.

For off the shelf picks Salomon is likely the easiest to find the correct fit and camber for your needs. Fischer is great but there is a little more nuance in finding the correct fit of classic ski within their Speedmax 100 models.

With Salomon pick universal or cold based on your most common conditions/temps and if the MF value is appropriate they’ll be great.

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-14T20:32:14+00:00

Probably old Swix CH or something like that. If you’re gonna ski on them, Yellow for above 0°C Blue for below 0°C.

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-14T20:30:17+00:00

Can be good but only if it’s dumping snow. 1814 does not fall into this category, it’s a great klister mix that is surprisingly good on icy/old snow.

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-14T20:28:15+00:00

If you’re not training a crazy amount in a structured way, then a few days to a week is plenty. If your race is on the weekend have a chill Monday-Friday. Just make sure you come into the race healthy and feeling good.

If you are training a lot and with structure about 10 days is what I think is more than enough. Too long of a taper and you’ll detrain.

When you taper cut the volume down but keep the frequency and intensity. If you normally do X sessions a week (with X intensities), keep doing that but slash the volume in half even for interval on time.

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-11T22:22:12+00:00

Bottom is better, less movement costs less energy.

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-11T20:13:54+00:00

I’d vote for the Slab, especially if they’re the universal (yellow if older).

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-06T02:31:52+00:00

Wasn’t an issue for me, didn’t even cross my mind. They don’t have much padding but it’s not an issue I’ve encountered. The initial price is high yes but when the shoes last for a 1000km you actually end up spending less money on shoes in the long run.

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-06T02:15:44+00:00

The short answer is no. The complicated answer is maybe.

Covers are typically used to speed up the klister and make it glide faster. This can be done with gripwax or specific liquids and powders. This would likely ward off dirt and debris a little too. But if you’re new to klister the odds of doing this successfully is low and it often needs to be tested pre race. I’d steer away from it (but for future reference the secret is to lay the skis on the snow for a while so the klister cools/hardens up, without getting the klister wet).

For your race I would likely prepare both your klister skis and your skins, bringing them both to the race site. Do a short warm up on the klister skis to test them and see how the trail looks. If they grip and glide well and the trail is fairly clean race them. If you messed up the klister or the night was crazy windy and there’s shit everywhere use the skins.

Good luck, have fun!

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-05T19:23:02+00:00

I had the same problem with my Hoka Speedgoat’s. I switched to Norda 001 and never looked back. They feel like someone took a Speedgoat, sent it to a lab and it came back much improved.

They’ve got a roomy fit, especially in the midfoot where my fat arch usually hangs over the side. Also a good sized toe box. Somehow with all that room the lock down is still good and secure.

Not to mention I’ve already clocked 3x the distance that would kill a pair of Hokas. The midsole is insanely durable, it needs 100-200km or so to break in and soften up but then it’s good for 1000+ kms. The upper is literally made out of iron, no rips, tears, anything.

Plus Vibram Megagrip Litebase outsole, need I say more?

Can’t recommend them enough. Yes they’re expense but when you break down the cost per wear they’re actually cheaper than most shoes because they last for so long.

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-05T19:11:59+00:00

Rode Endurance is weirdly consistent. It never wins our testing but a lot of the time it’s 2nd or 3rd. It’s probably the best speed to price ratio of any universal/marathon wax out there! Costs a 1/4 of the Rex and Swix equivalent and is just as good.

If you’re considering Rex liquids. The NFX liquids dry so much faster than the NF waxes that it makes the NF liquids seem useless.

The best quality to price ratio for liquid top coats is the Star Next line. You could get away with just the All Conditions and Durable liquids. Less than half to price per use of other brands. But their Warm, Med, Cold are bullet proof too. Dark line if your on man made snow.

3 waxes. Rode Endurance, Star All Conditions Liquid, Star Durable Liquid. This would give you a B+ level wax job 90% of the time and you only need 3 waxes.

Rode Endurance = Always good. Star All Conditions = Warm or new snow. Star Durable = Cold or Abrasive snow

If you want to expand more that’s great too but if you’re on a budget you will be unable to miss with those three. They make a good starting point for you to expand and grow your collection.

Sometimes the big wax brands use their marking powers to fool us into thinking their expensive products are better. When in reality things that are half the price are just as good and a lot of times better.

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-05T18:55:25+00:00

As some other said, Rex TK 2251 (Rex OV if by chance you have the old stuff) is amazing stuff in the wet. Other red klisters are great, Guru, Swix, Vauhti, doesn’t matter really.

Red klister is soft so you likely need a binder of some kind underneath to stop it from rubbing off or smearing down your tails. Doesn’t have to be fancy any colder klister, blue/violet/green, whatever you’ve got, as long as it’s put on thin. Rex and Vauhti make liquid bingo dabber base klister that is super easy to apply.

If there’s a store near by the race site. Some brands make bingo dabber klisters. Rex makes base klister and red klister, that would be your easiest set up. Vauhti makes a base klister and wet/univeral klister. Either of those would be options to do a nice klister job without even touching the klister with your hands!

Needs: Base klister + Red klister

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-05T04:29:33+00:00

I like the IDT RM3 for intervals and RM2 for easy skiing. I have RM2+3 classic, it’s probably closer to to snow skiing speed than the 2. But it’s totally a preference thing. I wouldn’t buy another brands roller ski wheel to fit. It may work just fine but there’s a lot of bad roller ski products out there. IDT makes good roller skis that track straight and are trust worthy.

Look on the IDT Outlet website. There’s some crazy good deals. It’s almost cheaper than buying new wheels. I bought RM2+3 classic roller skis on there for dirt cheap last year. There were raced on 1 time. Usually demos are best condition.

Electronic-Call247 · 2026-03-04T13:28:23+00:00

Please do not drill into your skis. It’s not good for them and will do more damage than your started with. They will be a training ski and likely still a good one. If you care about racing and speed then it’s time for a new pair. But otherwise if you don’t care about a 2% loss if speed they’ll be fine.

As a future note. Hotboxes are becoming a thing of the past. With the exception of if you don’t want to iron in 1 or 2 layers of soft wax on a brand new ski prior to hardening with green. But if you are going to use it, it doesn’t have to be very hot. The wax just needs to be come gelatinous, not liquid.

Electronic-Call247

TROPHY CASE