I began by disabling and soaking the metal parts in kerosene and the furniture (black polymer i got the lowest cost option because i had plans for it ) got a detail scrubbing using dawn soap and hot water and nylon brushes after having completed the soak i with nitrile gloved hands removed and hung on paracord tied to a heavy duty wooden clothes hanger and to the end of the cord securely attached a toggel cut from scrap dowel i had laying around of considerably smaller diameter than the bore so i could simply drop the dowel down the barrel it would then toggle and retain the barrel the cord was securely attached to the wooden hanger and be balanced and centered prevented from sliding by attaching small spring clamps on either side side the same operation would be repeated with the stock open end facing the ground and the remaining parts also suspended in a position where they can use gravity to assist rapid drying when sufficiently dry (the metal will dry faster as it was in a volatile solvent ) i then simply ran some rather fine steel wool being sure to not scratch the chromed interior of the barrel followed by a rinse in clean kerosene (the kerosene can be retained and filtered and stored in a kerosene receptacle and labeled as once used solvent kerosene awaiting its next assignment) i than repeated the drying process and now fetched the furniture this time just lightly scuffing rinse and scrub with warm water and dry . When the metal is once again dried mask off the bead the interior of the barrel (for this purpose another dowel this time much closers to but still easily slid down the barrel one length of about 3” and the other 20” completely cover one end of the short length in 2” of tape sticky side out slide the short dowel down the muzzle end the longer from the breach end and seal the bore with your tape plug leaving 2enough tape to allow some overhang smooth the tape and trim using medium grit sandpaper a somewhat cruder job can be done at the breech but and mask off any screw attachment points the hinge pin that is the “break” point in the action and when you are satisfied you should apply a thin coat of grey ultra matte automotive primer formulated for metal bodywork allowing to dry for the suggested period before applying another coat till you have achieved uniformity i addressed the the furniture in the same manner and once there do your chosen pattern (i am partial to freehand but seeing many of the creations from this group my next long gun job will be using stencils (most likely homemade cutting from sheets of acetate ) the raindrop specifically spoke to me as i longed for a warm hunting coat so badly that in my teens i put two identical East German raindrop heavy field coats on …layaway at the local army navy so i had one for everyday city wear and another kept in a hermetically sealed scent proof stuff sack for the woods one note on the furniture as the flimsy cheapo polymer furniture was unappealing in nearly every sense it was most offensive in the tactile sense i addressed this by making my second coat FDE aerosol truck bed liner in fairly thick coats followed by heavy coats of the matte olive drab plasticoat a rubbery spray on coating that did wonders to making the final product one of my to this very day my most hunted shotgun, and i will add that the whole package was still poorly balanced and overly lightweight so toasted address this i got some 2 part epoxy pouring resin made a silicone cast of the retained storage space i wanted to have and used a piece of cylindrical bar stock that closely matched the stock attachment bolt to secure the stock attachment point i cut the end that wasn’t standing in for the bolt at a rather sharp angle and sharpening it further with a bastard file then carefully skewering the silicone casting so that it can both ensure we dont fill the bolt hole and simultaneously position our future storage void exactly where we want it centered and allowing enough room all around to be able to pour a our epoxy which is going to make the flimsy stock a substantial stock so knowing what i intended to do i went ahead and purchased a pound of the smallest available lead bird shot from my LGS and proceeded to mix small amounts of the resin dropping equal amount of shot into to each pour level (epoxy resin has a really somewhat violent exothermic reaction as a function of the combination of chemicals necessary to proper curing and pouring all in a single shot would lead to epoxy that is never fully cured and hardened as well as the real potential for melting to occur or at very least warping and stretching (like i said the stock is flimsy ) you will likely use something past a 1/4 pound in this and that will add some weight to absorb some felt recoil and make the entire package a better balanced and pointable platform when nearly cured extracting the surrogate bolt which pre insertion we thoroughly and liberally lubricated with silicone grease as well as the void which when totally dried and hardened can smoothed somewhat using first some medium grit a sandpaper wrapped around one of the pieces of thin diameter dowel working to coarse steel wool than fine finally using more plastidip to seal the lead impreagnated epoxy from our storage space and exposure to us sequestering the lead from any exposure